My Big Blue Ox build....

[riotwarrior]

I think My 93 truck has long yoke pinion if so I will grab those gears and bearings.

I will grab my 88 open carrier and add the lunch box to the rear..

All my posis are weak and work poorly.

No use spending $$$ rebuilding worn posi when have a lunch box.

Got busy mounted my skinnies today so can roll into shop hopefully.

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Crap my photobucket wont load...fix it later..

16' wide door 7' high...now maybe can roll in shop with those on front axle lol


ZF swap soon

 

[laserjock]

That truck would be **** with those all around. Just need a hydraulic kit.

 

[TahoeTom]

I have seen a few slammed cc 2wd duallys. They look pretty cool in their own way, but not for snow country.

 

[IDIoit]

a slammed OBS 2WD DRW would be pretty damn sweet.
altho i think if i did one it would be a DI.
replace the DRW with a 31" tall x 18" wide SRW

 

[riotwarrior]

Uhm..slammed with 38" XL....ya NOT!

OBS long spline pi ion and posi carrier out and cleaned...PITA if I do say so myself. Of course like any truck that SITS for years the ring gear had some surface rust...doh...wire wheel on drill n golden.

Will work on something nicer later...but in its going to go and asap.

New crush sleeve arrived have new seal all golden.

BLUE locktight...check!

Now find warm place to work on my truck asap.

Thanks for looking.

 

[Black dawg]

I hate new crush sleeves. While not by the book, I will re use crush sleeves. Just take the old sleeve, and with it on the pinion, use a hammer on the belled out part of the sleeve. Just measure the length before and after, and make it 20-30 thousandths longer. Never had a problem doing it this way, but always use locktite on the nut.

 

[LCAM-01XA]

I still fail the see why not take the stupid crush sleeve out now and be done with it once and for all, as opposed to crush sleeve now and spacer+shims later? Yes it takes like half an hour more to do the shims - is that such a deal breaker?

Also yes, Riot, open carrier with a lunchbox locker will give you more traction that a semi-dead Trac-Lok, no doubts about that. Now it said Trac-Lok is one of the newer models that have friction material on their clutches, and you get new clutches for it... whole different story.

 

[Black dawg]

I still fail the see why not take the stupid crush sleeve out now and be done with it once and for all, as opposed to crush sleeve now and spacer+shims later? Yes it takes like half an hour more to do the shims - is that such a deal breaker?

Also yes, Riot, open carrier with a lunchbox locker will give you more traction that a semi-dead Trac-Lok, no doubts about that. Now it said Trac-Lok is one of the newer models that have friction material on their clutches, and you get new clutches for it... whole different story.

My trac lok works surprisingly well (375K) and now works even better since it got some bearing material in it from a slightly rough pinion bearing.

 

[riotwarrior]

I still fail the see why not take the stupid crush sleeve out now and be done with it once and for all, as opposed to crush sleeve now and spacer+shims later? Yes it takes like half an hour more to do the shims - is that such a deal breaker?

Also yes, Riot, open carrier with a lunchbox locker will give you more traction that a semi-dead Trac-Lok, no doubts about that. Now it said Trac-Lok is one of the newer models that have friction material on their clutches, and you get new clutches for it... whole different story.

Why...because it is quick and dirty...damn cold...considering 4.56 if run 38's cause cause cause.

Trust me if it was 110% staying I would CSEK but things change qwuickly...like getting an open carrier and tossing in locker...this quick n filthy dirty allows a quick job fresh oil and bamn done!!!

Get a fresh meazurement on new CS and ifn get open carrier....can redo when not working outside in snow

Shops still in turmoil

 

[riotwarrior]

I hate new crush sleeves. While not by the book, I will re use crush sleeves. Just take the old sleeve, and with it on the pinion, use a hammer on the belled out part of the sleeve. Just measure the length before and after, and make it 20-30 thousandths longer. Never had a problem doing it this way, but always use locktite on the nut.

Why hate them...cause hard as heck to squish???

 

[LCAM-01XA]

My trac lok works surprisingly well (375K) and now works even better since it got some bearing material in it from a slightly rough pinion bearing.

Hit or miss affair I suppose. Both of ours are kinda meh, they will spin both sides when the whole axle is in mud or snow, but as long as one wheel sees noticeably better traction that wheel will lose torque and the other one will speed up respectively. Zero friction modifier in the oil too, can't get any less slick than that. Well, suppose it can, doing it your way

 

[riotwarrior]

0.048" diff from used to new crush sleeve

 

[Black dawg]

Why hate them...cause hard as heck to squish???

yep. And the used ones dont really squish very easily either, just dont have to go as far.

 

[riotwarrior]

Been checking out q couple of Banks threads....Well this for me is interesting.

Based on the Banks kit seen in this add
https://mendocino.craigslist.org/ptd/5322212539.html

The Y/up pipe is damn near identical in design to mine for my CTS Thruster II...in that its a Y pipe with 180 deg flip back up to the turbo.

Here is the one in the Banks kit above.

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Now mine is hard to see clearly but here are a couple pics...first one shows the back side of that 180 flip next to 3" dp

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Sad crap Y ...dogs breakfast chickenshite welded crap...

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So with all the cracks and crap welds I wonder if a Banks Y/up pipe could be made to work with my CTS setup.

Now to see if Banks sells the Y/up pipe for a ZF equiped truck and could I make/mate that to my setup...

Hmmmm...thinking install new pipe when do trans swap... better and quicker and more boost if its NOT leaking out like it is currently

Thanks for looking

E D I T....

Nope no worky...feeds on drivers side not passengers....looks like a Van kit that one based on instructions I see...

Back to square one....adapt Y pipe from E4OD truck to fit turbo....ugh...crap....

Etter yet get my 093 to Russ to hot rod...and install it instead.

Thanks for looking.

 

[riotwarrior]

Ok so I am a cheap ass *******...or wise.

Had a rear diff with NEW park brake cables...removed em hung em in shop with C clamps to a very high.overhead shelf return springs on bottom. Climbed up with squirt bottle wd 40 pull down on casing and slowly squirt and let cazing up up up kept doing this over and over then held up bottom of cable did same.

Now I grab casing and slide it up down on cable with ZERO hesitation. So buttery smooth and easy to push pull the housing up and down cable.

Soaked down top ends a bit more left to hang over night will keep lubing untill I install them in my truck...butta smooth they be for long time.

Will work it till wd drips then blow it out top down with air...then do it with some oil to get it lubed...sure is smooth now mind you.

Just saying being cheap and wise saves coin and maybe lives!!!

Pics when I can

Thanks for looking

Al.