Manual fuel tank switch valve?

[DezertJunkie]

Hey. I've been hearing about some of you guys using a manual valve to switch between fuel tanks as an alternative to the FSV when it stops working. Was hoping to get more info on this and maybe some pointers on how to set one up. Only having one usable tank while the other is basically dead weight is getting old, plus having to refill every 115 miles or so is a headache. Thanks in advance.

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[Cubey]

The rear tank is much larger if I’m not mistaken. I was told my tank valve is bad but I haven’t checked it. I stick to the front tank. The fuel gauge changes to E if I turn the key and flip the switch so I know the gauge part works.

I’ve thought about switching my fuel line directly from the rear tank for higher capacity.

But keep in mind, more fuel weight means more of a hit to your mpg.

Front tank only works well enough for me currently so it hasn’t been a priority.

 

[franklin2]

If the tanks are stock, most are 19 gallon front and rear. You might want to go up to the top and look in the tech articles or google might pick it up in a search. I remember those guys using two brass valves mounted in the floor beside the seat on the driver's side. Each brass valve had 3 hose barbs. One valve was for fuel supply, and the other was for fuel return. So you turned both to the front or both to the rear.

 

[towcat]

that truck looks familiar.......
give me a few minutes and I'll snap a pic of my mess on my framerails.
say hi to your dad for me.

 

[Cubey]

Oh, front is 19? I thought it was 16. I guess my fuel gauge is way more accurate than I thought. At the half mark it has used about 9 gallons.

Is yours a 4x4 or something? 115 miles isn’t very much between needing fill ups, even city. Worst I’ve seen was once about 8.5 all city, but with lots of idling too. Or is that towing mpg?

Even the last bunch of city driving I did was getting an average of 10 with the all term tires I got. 6.9 makes/3spd at/3:55. I bought diesel with the plan to tow but currently that has been put off. Considering the mpg I get vs a similar gasser truck, this is still probably better mpg wise despite higher fuel cost. Plus I have better towing mpg if I need it.

 

[towcat]

it's a 4.10 C6 stump puller.

 

[Macrobb]

Just found this as an alternative to the FV5K electric fuel valve:
http://www.discountmarinesupplies.c...MI18y_q8v51wIVhKDsCh113wLoEAQYAiABEgJI4fD_BwE

More expensive... but manual!

 

[towcat]

Just found this as an alternative to the FV5K electric fuel valve:
http://www.discountmarinesupplies.c...MI18y_q8v51wIVhKDsCh113wLoEAQYAiABEgJI4fD_BwE

More expensive... but manual!

an oem electric valve is $317. this is a "bargain" in the scheme of things. i'm getting one btw.

 

[franklin2]

Don't forget you can get another electric one like the OEM from the parts store for about $80. I think Autozone sells them among others. Same valve as OEM made by the same company (Pollack) but the one from the store won't plug into the wiring (different plug) and the fuel lines won't plug in(hose barbs instead of o-ring connects).

Having said all the above, I am not going back with the electric valve since mine went bad. I am just running on one tank right now.

And any type of manual valve you use, you will still have to add a electrical toggle switch somewhere to switch the sending units for the fuel gauge. All the wires are down at the frame rail location, so they can be extended up in the cab somewhere out of the weather to wherever you mount the switch.

 

[towcat]

this is my mess on the frame due to the third tank in the bed. depending on how the valves and FSV is positioned, I can transfer fuel in and out of all the tanks.


this "Y" plumbs in the third tank. the existing truck tanks are fully operational but the "Y" can be substituted in place of the FSV if full manual control is desired.

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the electric pump is for the fuel return to the bed tank. since it sits above the gravity line of the motor, the pump serves a scavenging purpose to push the fuel back into the tank.

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[Carlo F250 4x4 87]

Hi there guys.
I took my pollack switch apart at the 4 pop rivets and found that the brushes were worn.
replaced the tiny brushes and works like new.
remember to mark up everything on disassembly so that the rack screws all the way in and out.
takes a bit of pacience but worth it!

 

[towcat]

Hi there guys.
I took my pollack switch apart at the 4 pop rivets and found that the brushes were worn.
replaced the tiny brushes and works like new.
remember to mark up everything on disassembly so that the rack screws all the way in and out.
takes a bit of pacience but worth it!

Carlo- welcome to the site Until you, our furthest south member was Redstang410 in Pananma. How about some pics of the truck start a new thread if you can

 

[lotzagoodstuff]

FYI, from an old post:

So I still have the stock tank selector valve in my truck, however, Parker makes a XV633 three position, dual ball valve that would be a nice manual version. They also make a long handled version that would be really cool to mount someplace where you could easily actuate it.

In regards to three tanks, I do believe Parker also makes a 4 way diverter valve, although I don't think they make a dual version. The dual version is nice because it takes care of your pressure and return lines with just one turn of the ball valve.

Configurator attached below, good luck no matter what way you end up going.

http://ph.parker.com/us/en/industrial-brass-ball-valves

 

[Joseph Davis]

Just found this as an alternative to the FV5K electric fuel valve:
http://www.discountmarinesupplies.c...MI18y_q8v51wIVhKDsCh113wLoEAQYAiABEgJI4fD_BwE

More expensive... but manual!

Thanks for the link, I will probably be using very soon because the fuel switches have been removed by a pervious owner of my truck. Thanks for the Post