Losing fuel pressure

[Jbevs]

So I am losing my fuel pressure after I shut 'er down. What are these caps you guys are talking about that I should replace. It has a pump similar to this pushing fuel to the fuel filter. http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Detail.aspx?R=DFPFD0002_0218385030

I don't really know where to start. It starts really hard, I assume because it loses the prime while not running. Brand new glow plugs and it glows for a healthy 10 seconds or so. It takes over a minute of cranking to get it to start. It will usually stumble after 20 seconds to start though. I do not crank the starter for even 30 seconds at a time though.


Also I am in need of some new batteries. I read about these group 31 batteries. Can someone elaborate on that for me please. Is there any reason I shouldn't just get two autozone yellow tops at about 850 CCA's each?

 

[icanfixall]

Look at the injectors. Just under the steel lines there is a plastic cap with a rubber line running into and out of it to the next injector. Thats the return line system. Fuel not used by the injector is pumped back to the fuel tank and it cools the injectors. Its really just gravity flow going back. Under those caps you have two o-rings. They become hard and start leaking. Any wetness around the top of the injector. Also the fuel line from the filter to the pump has a gasket called an olive in both ends. They are there for vibration so make sure you have them. They are cheap and any good injection repair shop will have them. The lift pump feed line at the fuel filter has on in it also. Any of these areas found wet are a leaker. Just an easy job to replace them. Probaly around 1 hour. Any work past the filter discharge must be kept very clean... Any dirt getting into the injectors will ruin the injectors fast....

 

[Jbevs]

Thanks a bunch I can fix all. I suppose that explains why the #6 injector always looks wet and the engine is filthy on that side. Now I know what to replace. Very informative post!!!

 

[icanfixall]

Your very welcome. Now about cleaning off the injector areas of work. Just use an engine cleaner but do it when the motor is cold. Any water thats flowing into the valley pan under the intake manifold will flow out the back and down on the starter... Thats just the way it flows off the pan. check the oil level before you wash off the top of the motor. Then check it after. If the oil level has gained any drain it before you try to start the motor. The rear of the pan has a line from the crd valve. It enters the valley pan thru a rubber seal. Sometimes those get hard and allow leaks both ways. Its not hard to replace but if you can stand the pain of laying on top of the motor its not too bad.... Also any water left in the glow plug wells at the heads will cook off....

 

[Jbevs]

Is there any reason I shouldn't just remove the injectors, bring them inside, replace the orings, then reinstall them? It's cold and snowy and I don't have a garage.

 

[alienturtle]

most "kits" you buy will come with copper washers that actually go under the injector. so if you want it would not be a bad idea to remove them and replace this washer. just blow out around the injector before you pull it to make sure you dont get any dirt down inside the motor.

 

[OLDBULL8]

No No and No. Just replace the one leaking for now then the rest when warmer. Get the whole kit from Typ4. PM him. When replacing the O'rings, put the top in first, then roll the next one over the top one, use vasoline on the caps and o'rings, grease them good.

 

[Jbevs]

I've already got the kit from Russ(typ4). I'm just planning my mode of attack on this thing.

 

[SLC97SR5]

I vote for simply replacing the O-rings, caps and fuel line. No need to remove the injectors. I recently serviced mine and it would have simply induced more problems had I not already been replacing the injectors.

The area around the injectors collects sand, dirt, rust and general crap. All of which is just waiting to fall in the injector hole and foul it's mating surface in the head.

Save yourself some work and just replace the $30 line kit...unless you are going to R&R the IP and splurge for new injectors!

Slather the vaseline on there!

 

[Jbevs]

Is it ok to use dielectric grease instead of vaseline? I don't really want to buy vaseline to never use again.

And while I've got you here, are these the right test strips to use with VC8 SCA?
http://www.class8truckparts.com/Fle...02ABSF1S.htm?gclid=CNfqn-nmx6UCFUVqKgodPWMyYA

 

[SLC97SR5]

Is it ok to use dielectric grease instead of vaseline? I don't really want to buy vaseline to never use again.

And while I've got you here, are these the right test strips to use with VC8 SCA?
http://www.class8truckparts.com/Fle...02ABSF1S.htm?gclid=CNfqn-nmx6UCFUVqKgodPWMyYA

No.
Dielectric grease is typically silicone based which will degrade your 0-rings and cause them to leak. C'mon the drugstore has travel size petroleum jelly for .99cents.

Yes. That is the same kit I have, just repackaged.

 

[Jbevs]

Alright, thanks man.

 

[dyoung14]

If money is tight, go to napa buy the standard #111 o-rings, and about 6ft of the proper diamater fuel line, and fix the leaks, no need to replace the caps unless the are broke, if you need some caps pm me i will send you some for free

 

[idi traveler]

Sense your going to do the work quickly and not let any of the stuff sit around for a while after you lub it up, KY works as a good o ring lub. And I bet you don't have to go to the drug store for that!

Also, have you done anything with any of the fuel lines filter and the such in the resent past. The reason is, anything that you have touched is a good place to look for an air leak. Even if you know that it is all good, I might say especially if you know it is all good! Ouch!

 

[Jbevs]

I really appreciate that Dyoung. Money is not that tight, but if I can save a couple bucks and a trip to the store by using what I have I will. I already got the kit though, so I might as well splurge for the vaseline I suppose.