Looking to turbo my 7.3

[zmck150]

I've done a lot of reading on this forum and gotten tons of great information and now I'm finally getting close to being able to purchase a turbo setup. Hopefully some of you guys will have some pointers or suggestions.

My truck as of now is a 1993 f350 crew cab long bed dually 4x4 with a 7.3 n.a. idi attached to a e4od. I'm not 100% sure but it seems like my truck has some trans work done ( low stall torque converter) And oversized coolers. The 7.3 is a jasper reman(unfortunately) but at least it Is the 185hp with a serpantine belt setup.

Now I have another 7.3 I purchased with low compression. I'll be taking that one apart in the next couple days to find out what is wrong with it. Assuming nothing is cracked, no cavitation, etc I want to put new bearings rings arp headstuds and all new gaskets on it. Purchase a stock turbo kit and put code bb injectors with the pump from the jasper (in the truck right now)

A couple concerns I have would be the ip from the jasper not be enough for the turbo setup? My goal is like 225-250 at the wheel in best case scenario. I don't want to slow down like crazy goin up hills anymore and a couple more mpg would be Cool also. My next concern is the engine I picked up is a v belt setup, from what I've read I can just swap pulleys and accessories and I should be all set to keep the serpentine setup.

Any input or corrections is greatly appreciated

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[redneckaggie]

sounds like a decent plan, pump will be just fine unless it is worn out, just crank up the fuel a few flats or turns or whatever suits your fancy, make sure with all of that invested into the engine to get a decent set of real gauges. I would say that oil pressure, water temp, pyro, and boost are a bare min, on top of that I would prob take vaccum, oil temp, fuel pressure in that order. I have autometer and am happy with them but others like the look of isspro

 

[icanfixall]

The serpentine belt parts will bolt to the none serpentine belt engine. All the idi engines are drilled and tapped exactly the same so even the 6.9 heads and block will take a serpentine belt kit. As for the pump it probably will be fine but turn it up 2 flats with the addition of a turbo. Do you know how many miles are on the Jaspers pump. If its close to 125,000 its generally felt thats the worn out limit. When gasketing the engine make sure you do not use an oil pan gasket. the cork-rubber gaskets fail and you have a leak that requires engine removal to repair. Just use a high quality rtv like the factory did. I use permatex ultra copper. It has never leaked on me over 30 years of using it on many different engines. When installing the ARP studs make sure you buy their Molly Lube for the threads. Their lube is so much better than any other thread lube.

 

[zmck150]

I don't know the mileage on the pump, the dash reads 378xxx and when I bought the truck the guy claimed it had 30k on the engine and rebuilt transmission. But I bought it without paperwork assuming the whole truck had 378xxx cause it's a cclb drw 4x4.(Prob a mistake I'm paying for in the long run)

Is there a way to get the pump checked? Would any diesel shop be able to do it or are there specific shops to go to for that sort of thing

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[hotshotidi]

I would contact Mel for any pump question he specializes in idi pumps and performance .

 

[zmck150]

To check for cavitation I saw somewhere they did a test with water in he cylinder with the piston all the way at the bottom, is this accurate alone with doing a breakdown test, or should I just bring that to a shop also.

Another thing is would the 32mm wrist pins be worth finding or buying new internals or will the 28mm ones be fine.

I'm unsure how to find Mel's name on here I've never used private messaging.

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[icanfixall]

Mel is the owner of Conestoga Diesel injection of Pa. Look them up and see the fine web site they have. He is very honest with what he knows and helps a;;. I can't say enough good things about him or his family. This is a family run buisines too. As for filling a cylinder with water to check for cavitation please don't. You will bend rods or break pistons trying to pump it out. Usually opening up the block and doing a sonic test on the liners is the normal way this is done but.. Miss any small pinhole area and its still a bad block that you were told was fine. Running the 28mm wrist pins is fine with a turbo. Most idi engines were doing that for many years before the 33mm pins came about. I ran my 28mm non turbo engine with a Banks sidewinder wastegated turbo boosting to 13 lbs hauling heavy for several hundred thousand miles with no issues.

 

[zmck150]

I'll look that up thank you. I meant take the head off and let the water sit there after x amount of time and check for a leak. Sorry should have been more specific.

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[icanfixall]

Running a piston to the bottom of the stroke and filling the cylinder with water will not show cavitation because the water will leak past the rings. Nice idea but wont work. Now if you could seal off the top and bottom of any cylinder. Then force air or water into it you could find a bad cylinder. Sadly the bottom of the cylinders are not machined for a seal like the tops are.

 

[zmck150]

Makes sense. Like I said saw it somewhere figured I would ask. Thank you very much for the help

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[Eccentric]

That 'water test' also won't alert you to cavitation damaged cylinders that haven't quite pinholed yet (but will pinhole sometime after you button the engine back up and drive for a while)....

 

[zmck150]

Now I'm not sure if making a new post or continuing here is the better choice, so I'll start here. On this project motor I have I'm not sure what brands to be looking at for piston rings and crank shaft bearings. I went to napa and the money they want is ridiculous. Now is their product even worth it? Rock auto has a much better price but I once again have no idea about quality.

Thanks in advance

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