Little help with wiring please.

greythorn3

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how many more pictures you got of hat avatar girl? can you send me a link to the motherload?

Ray
 

towcat

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"shouldn't have much guesswork" was my thought too. I'm really stumped why i don't have any power at my ignition switch. Which wires (color and fuse link size/color) should be hooked up to the relay post with the positive lead from the battery, if any?
I think I better take a look at Brian's truck in the morning.
What are you doing thurs? If you throw for lunch at a decent diner(Fenton's:D) I'll make a trip up to give you a hand with your spaghetti project.
guys-
just a footnote.....he's got the XLT harness. it's got every wire Furd put together for the pickup-cuss
 

dieselutheran2

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I'm up for anybody who knows what the heck they're looking at to take a look at the beast. I'll buy you lunch, coffee, and pine-tree air freshiner if you can make it to Pittsburg/Bay Point Thursday afternoon! That just so happens to be my only day off. :hail
 

towcat

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I'm up for anybody who knows what the heck they're looking at to take a look at the beast. I'll buy you lunch, coffee, and pine-tree air freshiner if you can make it to Pittsburg/Bay Point Thursday afternoon! That just so happens to be my only day off. :hail
I'll pencil you in. If your kid likes ice cream, Fenton's is going to be a treat for her.;Sweet



Oh yea...
the avi girl is a friend of a PD dispatcher I am friends with. I did a screenshot of her from a IM chat. They're teaching me this online chat thingie;Sweet
 

jimraelee

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Well neutral safety is sending power down to the starter relay from the ign switch... so if you dont have any power at the ign switch then this is not the issue... its on of the leads to the ign switch. Umm dumb question, but how is fuse #1 & 15???? they are in the under lower dash fuse block, down by your left knee????
 

dieselutheran2

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jimraelee, I'll be checking those fuses tomorrow, along with fabing a ground wire that will connect the starter relay, voltage regulator and GP relay.

towcat, I'm going to spend some time on the truck tomorrow and see what I can make happen. If I get it to turn over then i'll cancel your trip north for the time being. if not, then I'll let you know that I still need help thursday afternoon.

It appears that there is a wire (#1) with a blue fusable link and 14 guage yellow wire that connects to the battery terminal on the GP relay, along with a green fusable (#2) link that has an 8 guage wire and a 14 guage yellow wire (part of the alternator wiring harness). I'll move these wires around to see where they will work. I think I also need to swap the wires on the starter relay, having the battery terminal be the front one and the one that runs to the starter connected to the rear post. I'll update this with results in case anyone else finds themselves rewiring stuff. Thanx everyone, for the help.
 

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dieselutheran2

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Alright, Success! Kinda. I moved the two wires and made a ground wire to connect the starter relay, voltage regulator and radio supressor (metal cylinder). I turned the key and my Glow Plug light came on in the cab! I hooked up my multi-meter and got a GP cycle from the connections. YEAH!!

The bad. The ignition wire (red/lt blue) registers 6v when the GP controller is cycling, but when I turn the key to the start position the ignition wire drops to 0.25v or 0v. Is there a problem with the neutral safety switch? is there something else I should be looking for? Also, what is the two spade sensor between the IP and the fuel filter head? is that another coolant temp sender? can I leave it unplugged? thanks for the help everyone.
 

Agnem

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how old is your truck... its probably an older 6v GP system...


That's been covered already. BTW, all the glow plugs are 6 volt, even the ones in the 7.3.

The relay does NOT ground through the case, as I think was figured out.
 

dieselutheran2

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This sucks. I'm only able to work on my truck once a week, and it is a 67 mile round trip to do so. I got to my truck today to run a compression test and found my batteries dead, 1.2v still in them. I made sure the headlights were off when I left the truck. What else would cause the batteries to run down? I do not have the wires hooked up that control the dome-light when the doors are open, could that make them constant on? I'm wondering if there is any connection to the ignition ground/short?
 

Agnem

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Finding a wayward draw is easy with an amp meter and the negative posts of both batteries disconnected. Charge your batteries and turn everything off, close the doors, and hook the amp meter up between the negative post and the negative cable on one battery. If you see a load bigger than what your radio or clock should draw (or blow the fuse in your meter :eek: ) to keep your clock and stations set, you've got an issue.
 

jimraelee

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if you find you do have a draw... then start disconnecting fuses to find the circut that is draining the battery...
 
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