Lesson learned, and have a question.

[dirtbiker]

Hey guys,

Long story short I had a small oil leak. There was a cork gasket and a broken oil pan bolt, both of which contributed to the leak. I decided to fix it, which meant pulling the oil pan. Luckily I can do this pretty easily because of the way the motor is mounted in my truck. Anyway, I learned that I shouldn't use a cork gasket. I cleaned everything and used RTV ultra black and did a nice bead around the pan. I then installed the pan, snugged bolts, waited and then tightened a little bit. Waited another hour and tightened a bit more. This was about 5 or 6 hours ago... I just went back outside and torqued all the bolts to about 13 ft./lbs. Should I torque them to 15 or so in the morning, or wait longer? Also, when is it safe to put oil in to see if I fixed the leak? I am seeing mixed responses all over the internet.

Any insight is appreciated, thanks all.

 

[riotwarrior]

IMHO yer golden to test for oil now

 

[bbjordan]

Not a fan of the ultra black. I prefer just the black. I'm sure its a good product, but it seldom works for me. Maybe its that I am too impatient or too distracted, but when I've used the ultra black in the past I've had leaks. But hey, that's just me.

 

[gatorman21218]

When I rebuilt the heads THEN rebuilt the engine a month later, Ultra grey was a major pain in the ass to remove. Either way you have to get the surface spotless for any silicone to stick. It wont stick to oil or old silicone. Frankly I hate the stuff and only use it where I have to.

 

[dirtbiker]

Just to clarify, the pan is already on and torqued to about 13 ft./lbs. I was really just wondering when I could go ahead and torque the bolts the rest of the way and put oil in it to see if I sealed it good. Thanks for the replies though.

 

[OLDBULL8]

Don't think I would torque it anymore, the RTV has most likely setup now. Just oil her up and hope it don't leak. If by chance it does, you can always retorque it.

 

[dirtbiker]

Don't think I would torque it anymore, the RTV has most likely setup now. Just oil her up and hope it don't leak. If by chance it does, you can always retorque it.

Do you think 13 ft./lbs. will be enough to hold oil? I thought the proper torque specs were 14 or 17 or something like that. I guess it's better to add torque rather than have too much.

 

[fordf350man]

you should be ok, and it takes mosts types of rtv 24 hours to fully cure, you should wait overnight to add oil, i am permatex certified i have proof , i dont know what product you are using but i always let it cure overnight just to be sure, if the spec is at 14 ft lbs im sure your still within the tolerence so that should be fine to

 

[metalminded]

i dont know what product you are using

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[junk]

I thought Oil pan bolts were 18ft lb. Might depend on what manual your using. 13ft lb seems light to me. I'd go up to 18 and then let er rip! I just did an oil pan in my 93 and I know I put them to 18.

 

[dirtbiker]

One of the MANY posts on this topic said to snug em up, wait a few hours, snug em up some more, then do the final torque tomorrow. So far, we have done two of the three steps. Started with eight to ten pounds (little ooze), four hours later went to thirteen pounds (current state, little more ooze), and was planning in final torquing this morning. I figure the "adhesive" part of the equation has already stuck. Any extra torque is just adding pressure to a "gasket" that is now in place, right? Thanks for the advice.

 

[icanfixall]

Well I see even this forum has differant ideas on this so heres the way I see it and do it. I use permatex ultra copper plus. Thats the heat and oil resistance rtv and its a reddish golden color. I apply a small bead to both the block and the pan. Then I place the pan on the block and tighten it down till its metal to metal. I use more rtv in all the corner joints where three surfaces come together as a seal. Thats the timing gear to block to oil pan up front and the rear main seal cover to block to oil pan joint. EVERYTHING MUST BE CLEAN. I mean operating room clean. Reason I tighten the oil pan down till its metal to metal is I want a tight fit. The wet rtv is going to fill al the areas well. I let it dry overnite. I have found if you don't like the look of the joint after its dried an exacto knife cuts off the squeezed out rtv and makes a nice looking joint seal. Please don't tighten the pan any more than you already have. I"m not sure where you found those torque reading. I personally never use anything more than wrench tight. Now that does not mean adding a cheater to the small end wrench or the 3/8 wratchet socket set I use for the small pan bolts. On my valve covers I do use a gasket but... Its coated with rtv ob both sides and the tightness is snug. & years and no leaks yet.

 

[dirtbiker]

The torque readings are just those for 5/16 bolts. Everything was clean. Hopefully, we squished enough into the gaps to seal 'er up. We'll fill it and fire it, and see what happens. Worse case, I have to spend my Saturday under the truck doing it again. Practice makes perfect, right?

Thanks!

 

[icanfixall]

Sadly the major gasket manufacturing companys are making a oil pan gasket where we never needed one from the factory. But hel. There in it to win it I guess. Did you install this gasket because thats what came in a regasket kit or was this there when you got your rig. I truely hope others read this and understand to NEVER use an oil pan rubber or cork gasket. They leak no matter what and rtv will seal so much better than a gasket.

 

[dirtbiker]

We installed a gasket because we were naive when we picked up this basket case motor swap build and had yet to learn of the eccentricities of the IH IDI. The pan was crushed when we got it, and when we put a new one on and gasketing it seemed correct. That was before we found Oilburners, Thedieselstop, FTE, etc. and started learning. We have come light years!