Least expensive sending unit options

Brianedwardss

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Well it's became time to replace my sending units. I can barely use 12 gallons from each tank and my needle bounces from full to empty on every bump.

LMC has 'em listed at $180 for front and $230 for rear. Not being a cheap a$$ but I wanted to know if there were less expensive options out there than this. I'm mainly focused on the front tank at the moment because it's the easiest to get to.

Thanks in advance
 

icanfixall

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Nope... Can't say where the best bet for your money is but... I can tell you the front tank can stay in the truck. You just need to reach up there abd remove the supply & return lines. Then the electrical. Then a tap on a screwdriver with a hammer and the ring will spin off. Then just lift out the sender. You will see a special alignment pin and a gap in the sender flange. Those must be lined up or it wont fit or draw fuel properly.... Easy job too. Now the back tank is tuff. First thing you need to do is cut loose the fuel lines at the underbed frame cross member. Then you can drop the tank low enough to reach the lines to remove them. Now any fuel left in that tank will slosh around causing you all kinds of hell trying to balance it. Just drain all of it before you try to install the rear tank... Hope this helpd you out....:D
 

Brianedwardss

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Thanks Gary. I will try that on the front. The back tank works the best, so I'll keep it in til I do the 38 gallon tank retrofit.
 

Brianedwardss

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Thanks Jared. That bring up another option, is it possible to rebuild the stock sender with replacement parts, or.....? I've heard of running a rubber hose in place of the sock and cutting triangles out of it to prevent from suctioning onto the bottom, and weighting it down with hose clamps. opinions or experience with this?
 
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icanfixall

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Most suction foots or shower heads as some call them have rotted and broken off. Thats why most of us run out of fuel when we are at 1/4 tank... Then all you can force into the tank is around 12 gallons. So we install some fuel hose to reach the bottom of the tank. I bought one of the new suction shower heads and had it installed on my rear tank. Then posted about what I had done... A member here felt like asking me "do I really wanna do that".... So... Not having reinstalled the tank I removed the sending unit and installed a short piece of fuel rated hose that reached the bottom of the tank... I sleep easy now knowing I can always draw down to the last gallon in the tank without any fear the shower head will break offf again... I don't like dropping the rear tank and the front tank doesn't need to be dropped to work on the sender or pickup....:sly;Sweet
 

BioFarmer93

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Brian,
I wouldn't even dream of contradicting icanfixall about anything having to do with these trucks, but- I see in your sig that you have an '88... That's a year older and a year dirtier than mine. I was astounded at the amount of dirt and crap and crud and rust that had gathered in that ring, and to be honest I know that I could never have gotten it off without dropping the tank. I shudder to think about all the garbage that would have fallen into the tank as I fumbled around getting the pickup/sender unit out with the tank still in position.. Just something to think about... Good luck!
 

MIDNIGHT RIDER

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If I had ordinary pick-up beds on my trucks, I would cut trap-doors in the bed floors for fuel tank access.

With the steel flats, tank maintenance is a simple matter and the rear is actually a lot easier than the front on account of it being situated just at the back edge of the goose-neck trap-door. ;Sweet


Several years ago, I did the generic $16 J.C.Whitney sending-unit retrofit explained in FELLRO86's article and I have been well pleased.

I took extra pains in bending/adjusting the float arms and my gauges are now far more accurate than that FORD mess ever was. ;Sweet
 

Exekiel69

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If I had ordinary pick-up beds on my trucks, I would cut trap-doors in the bed floors for fuel tank access.

With the steel flats, tank maintenance is a simple matter and the rear is actually a lot easier than the front on account of it being situated just at the back edge of the goose-neck trap-door. ;Sweet


Several years ago, I did the generic $16 J.C.Whitney sending-unit retrofit explained in FELLRO86's article and I have been well pleased.

I took extra pains in bending/adjusting the float arms and my gauges are now far more accurate than that FORD mess ever was. ;Sweet

Do You have a part # for this? I can't find it nor the chat assistant and I need to re do My sending units.

Thank You.
 

gatorman21218

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If I had ordinary pick-up beds on my trucks, I would cut trap-doors in the bed floors for fuel tank access.

With the steel flats, tank maintenance is a simple matter and the rear is actually a lot easier than the front on account of it being situated just at the back edge of the goose-neck trap-door. ;Sweet


Several years ago, I did the generic $16 J.C.Whitney sending-unit retrofit explained in FELLRO86's article and I have been well pleased.

I took extra pains in bending/adjusting the float arms and my gauges are now far more accurate than that FORD mess ever was. ;Sweet

yeah I hear you I have the old reading bed filled with tools and junk. I do however need to work on my tanks, as I can only shove 14 gallons in, and it takes all day to do it
 

Diesel_brad

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Use a Powerstroke(94-97) sending unit they are stainless and plentifull at the Junk yard. You can get em for 15 bucks and never worry about em again. Just make sure you get the pigtail that goes with it because the plugs are different
 

160k87F250

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Most suction foots or shower heads as some call them have rotted and broken off. Thats why most of us run out of fuel when we are at 1/4 tank... Then all you can force into the tank is around 12 gallons. So we install some fuel hose to reach the bottom of the tank. I bought one of the new suction shower heads and had it installed on my rear tank. Then posted about what I had done... A member here felt like asking me "do I really wanna do that".... So... Not having reinstalled the tank I removed the sending unit and installed a short piece of fuel rated hose that reached the bottom of the tank... I sleep easy now knowing I can always draw down to the last gallon in the tank without any fear the shower head will break offf again... I don't like dropping the rear tank and the front tank doesn't need to be dropped to work on the sender or pickup....:sly;Sweet

Gary, so do you just have a piece of fuel hose going to the bottom of the tank or is there a fitting on the end of it with a screen to prevent junk from the tank from going into the fuel system? My rear tank is out now and dont really have the money for a new fuel pick-up/sending unit. Thanks.
John

John
 

dakotajeep

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Personally, I found it ten times easier to just remove the bed. I have dropped the tanks and it was a pain. After that I said never again.

The issue probably isnt your sending units but the fact that the "shower heads" have broke off. The fact that the gauge bounces....I have gotten used to that on my older rigs....

Good Luck,
Thad
 

flareside_thun

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Use a Powerstroke(94-97) sending unit they are stainless and plentifull at the Junk yard. You can get em for 15 bucks and never worry about em again. Just make sure you get the pigtail that goes with it because the plugs are different

Do you happen to have any kind of writeup on this conversion?

Personally, I found it ten times easier to just remove the bed. I have dropped the tanks and it was a pain. After that I said never again.

The issue probably isnt your sending units but the fact that the "shower heads" have broke off. The fact that the gauge bounces....I have gotten used to that on my older rigs....

Good Luck,
Thad

I agree 100% about pulling the bed......
 

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