KP D60 high steer

[IDIoit]

trying to get the front suspension of the MANchero dialed.
i decided to go with high steer to get the draglink more level.

also done to keep the track bar level.
right now its at about 2.5 degrees on the drag link. (with the truck on stands)
pan hard (trackbar) will have the same 2.5* angle.

using a 4" drop pitman, which has a CL to CL measurement of 6.5"

ballistic fab arms are 8.5" from KP CL to the TRE CL.

all nice tubing and 1 ton GM TRE's

the pitman gets a little close to the spring but i think itll clear without issue.

Ive been told that the pitman arm should be the same length as the passenger steering arm.

right now it turns full lock to full lock.

what is the proper/ mathematical way to set these up to make it 100% correct?
also when you use different length arms, doesnt that play hell on your steering box?
ruffstuff arm is the shorter one.

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[IDIBRONCO]

No answer here, but keep up the good work. I usually feel like some dummy who doesn't even know how to change my own oil after reading into your threads a ways.

 

[Dieselcrawler]

You can buy blank arms, and drill your own hole where you want it. For you I would keep tiered in factory location and just run drag link to the upper arm.

 

[IDIoit]

You can buy blank arms, and drill your own hole where you want it. For you I would keep tiered in factory location and just run drag link to the upper arm.

this ones already said and done, but i also want to get rid of the steering on my 87,
this sounds like an excellent plan for that rig.

No answer here, but keep up the good work. I usually feel like some dummy who doesn't even know how to change my own oil after reading into your threads a ways.

im juuuuuuuuust smart enough to make it sound like i know what im talking about.......
but i **** you knot. 65% of the time i feel like i have 2 brain cells left.
1 is lost.
the other is searching for the first.

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[DaveBen]

No bump steer here! Very nice Idiot.

 

[franklin2]

what is the proper/ mathematical way to set these up to make it 100% correct?
also when you use different length arms, doesnt that play hell on your steering box?
ruffstuff arm is the shorter one.

All suspensions have some bumpsteer, even the factory setups. You just try to minimize it so it's not noticeable. Making the linkage and track arm more level is the correct thing to do. If they are off a little bit though, it can still work good enough.

 

[DaveBen]

Actually having the radious rod and the steering rod parallel is the key to reducing the bump steer. Level has nothing to do with bump steer. I designed a racing midget back many years and that is how I did it. No bump steer.

 

[DaveBen]

Here is a link: https://www.hotrod.com/articles/ctrp-1001-bump-steer-explained/

 

[franklin2]

Actually having the radious rod and the steering rod parallel is the key to reducing the bump steer. Level has nothing to do with bump steer. I designed a racing midget back many years and that is how I did it. No bump steer.

Radius rod? Does his straight axle setup have a radius rod?

 

[DaveBen]

Wrong term. Sway bar. My mistake.

 

[IDIoit]

i dont like popcorn.

 

[franklin2]

Wrong term. Sway bar. My mistake.

Do you mean track bar? Sway bar doesn't affect bumpsteer. Track bar would, since it locates the frontend and makes the frontend swing in a arc when the suspension goes up and down. Being a little picky but might as well get our terms correct.

 

[bbjordan]

Level has nothing to do with bump steer.

Actually, it does. As the axle moves up and down, it will move in the arc of the track bar. As it does it will also move the axle laterally. Now, if the track bar is parallel to the steering rod all is good...if the track bar and the steering rod are the same length. Usually, this is not the case.

As noted earlier, the longer the track bar, the smaller the lateral deflection. So, ideally, we want a long track bar that is the same length as the steering rod, so they stay parallel.

So what about the level part? If the track bar is not level (parallel to the axle), the lateral deflection will not be symmetrical. i.e. deflection will be greater as the axle moves away from the frame vs moving towards the frame, or vice versa.

DaveBen, you are technically correct if the steering rod and track bar are parallel, and the same length. In this case, the whole system is auto-correcting. Again, this is usually not the case.

Automotive engineering is all about compromise. In IDIoit's case, his set-up looks pretty damn good! Close enough for racing, IMHO.

 

[DaveBen]

Yes I mean Track Bar. Now what did I have for lunch? or was it dinner??

 

[IDIoit]

yes the track bar and the drag link should be at the same angle,
its said that it will bump steer if it isnt.

so..... when i set up the track bar, i wasnt paying attention.
the steering was at full lock to the left to keep an eye on leafspring clearance.
finished it up, took it out, and she drove fine.
stopped at a buddys house,(wheels were straight) and noticed, that my drag link is now level with my tie rod.
and my track bar isnt at the same angle.
damnit.
ill be remaking the lower track bar mount later.