IP Swap

mankypro

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Well I'm about to embark on an IP swap in my quest to make this truck as bullet proof as possible.

I've read Mel Agne's article, but I find the pictures a bit small to be useful. I was wondering about the part about:
Next, remove the injection pump gear access cover. On early 6.9 engines, the cover is the oil fill tube.

Wondering how to figure out which I have. Any chance for larger pictures from someone of the bolts holding the cover on?
 

DeepRoots

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looking at the engine from the front.
the ip is bolted to a roundish cover. This houses the timing gear.
there will be a small access plate on the 7.3's with two half inch or 7/16th bolts holding it on.
On the 6.9's the actual oil fill has those two bolts.

or if need be, picture the ip being bolted to that gear.
where would those three 5/16th bolts be? can't miss it, pop a hood and see.....
 

RockinB

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An old 9/16 " 12 point box end wrench (preferably offset) ground down a third or half depth will make life easier for r/r the bottom 2 mounting nuts. An extra pair of hands would be useful to clear the hard lines past the cowl also. Overall, not a big deal.
 

GREASE FIRE

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Well I'm about to embark on an IP swap in my quest to make this truck as bullet proof as possible.

I've read Mel Agne's article, but I find the pictures a bit small to be useful. I was wondering about the part about:
Next, remove the injection pump gear access cover. On early 6.9 engines, the cover is the oil fill tube.

Wondering how to figure out which I have. Any chance for larger pictures from someone of the bolts holding the cover on?


is there anything wrong with your IP? If not, why don't you just buy another one and keep it in the truck so if yours fails you have a spare? that's what i do for long trips.
The reason i mention this is because the head on these pumps can snap at any time, especially with wmo/wvo and it makes little difference whether the pump is brand new or very old. Sometimes it even happens on diesel - that's just the nature of this type of rotary pump.
i have read stories about people who snapped two of them in a row with only a few weeks in between.

Paul
 

mankypro

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I'm having an issue that manifests itself as the truck seemingly having less power when it reaches 200'F - I'm wondering if the pump is having "issues".

I know one of the ways to get a pump to work is to cool it down with water. I'm renewing everything that I can do myself on this truck in order not to have a series of breakdowns like a few weeks ago.

Given that the Pensacola IP's are less than half the price of other outfits and they seem to be at least of OEM quality I will most likely purchase another one when money allows to carry in my spare kit.

Can anyone describe the behavior I will experience when my pump is dying or on it's last legs?

is there anything wrong with your IP? If not, why don't you just buy another one and keep it in the truck so if yours fails you have a spare? that's what i do for long trips.
The reason i mention this is because the head on these pumps can snap at any time, especially with wmo/wvo and it makes little difference whether the pump is brand new or very old. Sometimes it even happens on diesel - that's just the nature of this type of rotary pump.
i have read stories about people who snapped two of them in a row with only a few weeks in between.

Paul
 

RockinB

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Can anyone describe the behavior I will experience when my pump is dying or on it's last legs?


The ip I just replaced on my '94 ran fine, no perceived loss of power, no increased smoke, etc. just would'nt start when hot without the water treatment.
My old '91 developed heavy smoke under load/acceleration, noticable loss of power continuing depreciation, but would always start, hot or cold.
Those are my only experiences so far.
 

fsr7

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I had one quit that worked fine running and starting, but a seal went out and it was sending fuel into my oil as well - with as much oil as my truck goes through, I new something was wrong when I checked the oil and there was more in there than before.
 

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