IP Problems

[pwrdbyidi]

I'm having some problems with my DPS pump. I plan on calling Ken tomorrow to see if he has any ideas for me.

Here is what we're dealing with:
1990 F-250
ATS Aurora 2000 Turbo
DPS IP
DPS Stage 1 Injectors

I installed the pump and lined up the static timing marks. I have gotten it to start a few times in the mornings (SoCal 50-60*). It blows massive white/grey smoke till it warms up and then just a little smoke @ idle. The problem I'm having is that once it warms up for the day I can't get it to catch. Not at all.
I've tried advancing and retarding the timing about a dime's width either way - no changes.

Any ideas of what could be causing the "no warm startups"?

 

[reklund]

Air in the lines?

I'm having an issue with one of the injectors I just installed from DPS- it's leaking, and makes for some difficult warm re-starts...

Ryan

 

[towcat]

I take it you got the turbo in where it is supposed to line up?
sounds like air in the system still. but it shouldn't take that long to bleed out. do checkfor leaks in the valleypan though. next suggestion is to get it timed. It might be retarded still. the hash marks are only for reference only from the factory.

 

[pwrdbyidi]

Yes, I did finally get the intake hat to seat.
I don't see how air in the system would make it not start when it's warm out, but start when its cool. This morning when I had it started I let it idle for close to 20 min. Most of the air should have worked its way out by then. I'll keep bleeding and see where it takes me...

 

[pwrdbyidi]

Does anyone know of anybody in the Ventura or Santa Barbara (SoCal) area that has the right tools the get my truck accurately timed? I talked to Gibbs International and the service dept. said no longer have the equip. to do these old beasts. Also called several local mom & pop truck repair outfits to no avail. I might be SOL...

 

[SKimballC]

Yes, I did finally get the intake hat to seat.
I don't see how air in the system would make it not start when it's warm out, but start when its cool. This morning when I had it started I let it idle for close to 20 min. Most of the air should have worked its way out by then. I'll keep bleeding and see where it takes me...

It won't bleed all the air out just idling, you're gonna have to get on it, but if it'll start cold and not warm then there's more amiss than air in the lines.

 

[Agnem]

When you say it won't start when hot, do you mean if you shut it off, and try to restart it right away it won't, or are you saying after it sits for 20 minutes, then try to restart it it won't?

 

[pwrdbyidi]

After a few hours sitting in 50-60* weather I can get it started after 5-10 of cranking. After a few hours sitting in 80-85* it wont start. Once its running, restarts aren't a problem.

So far, no luck getting a hold of DPS this morning.

 

[icanfixall]

Did you pull the injection pump gear tower cover off? Thats the half moon cover that the injection pump bolts up to. If so maybe the timing jumped a tooth.

 

[pwrdbyidi]

The housing never came off. I opened the access cover, removed the old pump, installed new pump, reinstalled access cover.

 

[86 1 tonhauler]

theres a check valve on the top of the injection pump with a return hose on it take the hose off and the elbow the check valve is in the elbow and see if its stickin, u could try hookin up a electric fuel pump up and see if that helps, like a holley red pump and u only need 6to8 lb of fuel pressure any more than that will blow the seals in ip pump

 

[Diesel JD]

I think either the timing is way too far advanced, such as the timing gear jumped a tooth or two, or the pump failed internally from a swollen hydraulic head. In either case, it will start better the cooler it is. I had a similar problem, although I could almost always eventually get it started. Turned out the timing gear was advanced 2 teeth and the pump was also as advanced as i could get it. i kept thinking the timing was too far retarded. Lucky I didn't bust a piston(that I know of) but that's been 3 years ago almost. The other times it was a bad head in the pump. ken usually does a good job with the pumps but DB2s are hard to build and the best builders have a few bad ones, poorer builders have a TON of bad ones. Here's how you can figure it out(and check with Ken before you do this cause I don't knwo how he'd feel about it with warranty issues) but once you have it running, after you shut it down, if it will not restart, carefully pure some lukewarm(NOT COLD!) water on the body of the pump and if it then restarts like it should, you know you have a problem with the pump...either a bad Hyd. head or a bad fuel shutoff solenoid..and you should probably send it back to Ken. If that doesn't solve the problem,. then you either have engine problems or more likely you are a tooth or more advanced on the timing gear.

 

[pwrdbyidi]

Still, no luck contacting Ken.
So, I got it started again tonight. I think the timing is pretty close right now. Let it run for 15 min idling w/ bursts of higher rpms, hoping to get any remaining air out of the system. Shut it down, waited 20 min. - No restart. I would assume a swollen hyd. head would be creating lots of heat, however the pump seemed to remain relatively cool. The only area that seemed to warm up was directly above the FSS. I'll try to check out that check ball in the return line.

I also still have a bit of an exhaust leak where the turbo up pipe bolts to the pass. side manifold. Other than that, when it was running it ran great. Just feeling it run is making me real anxious to get it on the road.

 

[Runboy]

IP's

I know this is off topic, but have any of you used Oregon Fuel Injection for your IP's?
Previous owner had put one on my truck. Not sure exactly how many miles they put on it but it has been going strong for over 2 years and almost 50K miles for me. I finally ordered some Stanadyne Power Service from them and will definitely use them for a pump rebuild. Not sure how much the get in to performance building though. Receipt I have for the one on my truck does say "turn up for Banks Turbo" though.

I keep seeing people complain about DPS service and a few problems here and there. I have no personal experience with DPS service or product, but it sure sounds like more of a pain than it is worth to me.

Mike

 

[towcat]

I know this is off topic, but have any of you used Oregon Fuel Injection for your IP's?
Previous owner had put one on my truck. Not sure exactly how many miles they put on it but it has been going strong for over 2 years and almost 50K miles for me. I finally ordered some Stanadyne Power Service from them and will definitely use them for a pump rebuild. Not sure how much the get in to performance building though. Receipt I have for the one on my truck does say "turn up for Banks Turbo" though.

I keep seeing people complain about DPS service and a few problems here and there. I have no personal experience with DPS service or product, but it sure sounds like more of a pain than it is worth to me.

Mike

mike-
there are many pump rebuilders out there and then there are those who have learned the hard way on how to really make a pump sing. There's no doubt that Ken does know how to make a pump come alive. Unfortunately, he's also got the rep of the famous "soup ****" too. Eventually, I too will roll the dice on getting one of his pumps too and hope that I will get mime back before my truck's current pump vomits its internals. BTW, for most of my customers, I use MWFI for pumps due to the quick service, no charge core and most of all the no ******** service when there is a problem. It's been tested a few times and they really come through.