ip goin...how long?

[HammerDown]

you can get a rebuilt one for about $300 at accuratediesel.com.../

How's the quality/workmanship of their rebuild?

 

[GREASE FIRE]

How's the quality/workmanship of their rebuild?

i have had them on my 6.2 with no problems. i think the reason that price is lower than a lot of other shops is, first of all, small family business (no union or anything like that) and also that price does not include major work on the head/rotor (like sleaving, machining, etc.). If the head is worn beyond limits he just finds a core with a good head and rebuilds it. So, it is just a basic rebuild/repair job.


Paul

 

[RockinB]

My replacement IP just arrived, where do I get the 16pt socket to remove and reinstall it with? Also, do I need to use a thread sealer for the plumbing hardware?

Thanks,
Bill

 

[GenLightening]

My replacement IP just arrived, where do I get the 16pt socket to remove and reinstall it with? Also, do I need to use a thread sealer for the plumbing hardware?

Thanks,
Bill

Are you sure it's not a 12 point? Never heard of a 16 point anything and I can't see anything but 6 points on the external bolts.... No thread sealer needed on the plumbing, should be seals on all the lines.

 

[Dsl_Dog_Treat]

5/16" 12 pt socket for the 3 bolts on the timing gear.

Local parts stores should have em. I think the one I use is a Craftsman.

 

[GenLightening]

Good, I hoped my eyesight wasn't going! That's the second post I've seen where they were looking for a 16 point socket, maybe there's an instruction sheet that incorrectly lists needing it? Or they ran out of fingers?

 

[RockinB]

5/16" 12 pt socket for the 3 bolts on the timing gear.

*in best Rosanne Rosannadanna voice*
"Nevermind"


I'm sure I'll be back with more entertaining questions later.

Thanks everyone,
Bill

 

[Agnem]

My replacement IP just arrived, where do I get the 16pt socket to remove and reinstall it with? Also, do I need to use a thread sealer for the plumbing hardware?

Thanks,
Bill

Sorry that was probably me. I've never been able to get that error edited to say 12 point.

 

[RockinB]

[/Sorry that was probably me.QUOTE]
No trouble, just trying to do my homework for a smooth install. By the way, thanks for the writeup.

I was surveying the situation again last night, (won't have time to do the replacement until Saturday) and the ip that is in there now is a reman. I supposedly bought this truck from the original owner. Two ip's in less than 100k? Oh well, it is what it is.

 

[HammerDown]

Sorry that was probably me. I've never been able to get that error edited to say 12 point.

Mel, like RockinB asked...where do we purchase the needed curved 12-point IP wrench?

 

[suv7734]

Mel, like RockinB asked...where do we purchase the needed curved 12-point IP wrench?

The 3 bolts on the front of the IP that hold it to the drive gear are a 5/16" (or if not available an 8mm socket will work just as well) twelve point. A wrench will work but a socket is much more reliable and easier/reliable to use (no chance of striping bolt heads). Any good tool shop will have the socket, personaly I regularly use Craftsman.

 

[HammerDown]

The 3 bolts on the front of the IP that hold it to the drive gear are a 5/16" (or if not available an 8mm socket will work just as well) twelve point. A wrench will work but a socket is much more reliable and easier/reliable to use (no chance of striping bolt heads). Any good tool shop will have the socket, personaly I regularly use Craftsman.

Don't we need a curved wrench for the fuel lines at the rear of the IP, down at the bottom?

 

[Shadetreemechanic]

Don't we need a curved wrench for the fuel lines at the rear of the IP, down at the bottom?

I would just remove the ip with all the lines attached. It is much easier to remove the lines on the bench if there is no turbo in the way.

 

[Cat_Rebel]

Don't we need a curved wrench for the fuel lines at the rear of the IP, down at the bottom?

Could always do it the old fashion way...

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[HammerDown]

I would just remove the ip with all the lines attached. It is much easier to remove the lines on the bench if there is no turbo in the way.

And I fully agree...but...what about (if) when installing all the lines on the replacement IP (on the bench) they might need to be tweaked/tightened 'after' the IP is mounted back on the engine, we need the curved wrench for that correct ?
And if so where does one purchase it?