HammerDown
Full Access Member
How's the quality/workmanship of their rebuild?you can get a rebuilt one for about $300 at accuratediesel.com.../
How's the quality/workmanship of their rebuild?you can get a rebuilt one for about $300 at accuratediesel.com.../
How's the quality/workmanship of their rebuild?
My replacement IP just arrived, where do I get the 16pt socket to remove and reinstall it with? Also, do I need to use a thread sealer for the plumbing hardware?
Thanks,
Bill
5/16" 12 pt socket for the 3 bolts on the timing gear.
My replacement IP just arrived, where do I get the 16pt socket to remove and reinstall it with? Also, do I need to use a thread sealer for the plumbing hardware?
Thanks,
Bill
[/Sorry that was probably me.QUOTE]
No trouble, just trying to do my homework for a smooth install. By the way, thanks for the writeup.
I was surveying the situation again last night, (won't have time to do the replacement until Saturday) and the ip that is in there now is a reman. I supposedly bought this truck from the original owner. Two ip's in less than 100k? Oh well, it is what it is.
Sorry that was probably me. I've never been able to get that error edited to say 12 point.
The 3 bolts on the front of the IP that hold it to the drive gear are a 5/16" (or if not available an 8mm socket will work just as well) twelve point. A wrench will work but a socket is much more reliable and easier/reliable to use (no chance of striping bolt heads). Any good tool shop will have the socket, personaly I regularly use Craftsman.Mel, like RockinB asked...where do we purchase the needed curved 12-point IP wrench?
The 3 bolts on the front of the IP that hold it to the drive gear are a 5/16" (or if not available an 8mm socket will work just as well) twelve point. A wrench will work but a socket is much more reliable and easier/reliable to use (no chance of striping bolt heads). Any good tool shop will have the socket, personaly I regularly use Craftsman.
Don't we need a curved wrench for the fuel lines at the rear of the IP, down at the bottom?
Don't we need a curved wrench for the fuel lines at the rear of the IP, down at the bottom?
I would just remove the ip with all the lines attached. It is much easier to remove the lines on the bench if there is no turbo in the way.