Injection Pump Death

MommaHobbit

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For any of you that have had an injection pump die on ya, how did it happen? Was it slowly with warning signs or did it just crap the bed over night and leave you stranded. Mine is stock with roughly 124k miles on it and its currently leaking. I'm trying to decide if I should change it before camping season to avoid getting stranded in the back country.
 

Clb

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You're at life expectancy.
Yes it may last forever, (getting worse as time goes by) it will heat soak (look it up) best to read the stickies!
And don't chime in about the "new fleabay" reman that ***** the bed.
There's only maybe 4 vendors to buy from!

there'll be some helpful souls along soon!
 

Big Bart

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For any of you that have had an injection pump die on ya, how did it happen? Was it slowly with warning signs or did it just crap the bed over night and leave you stranded. Mine is stock with roughly 124k miles on it and its currently leaking. I'm trying to decide if I should change it before camping season to avoid getting stranded in the back country.
If it is leaking you should go ahead and do it. If you need it to be reliable at that mileage you shoukd do it. Also it is advised to do the injectors with the IP too. (Unless the are fairly néw, but send them with the pump to be pop tested.)

Remember to set the timing after putting your new IP in.

Here is article on reputable Folks who can rebuild your IP.

 
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IDIBRONCO

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The only way that it can die suddenly is if the drive shaft inside it breaks which rarely happens. Like Clb said, it almost always happens slowly. I had one that was acting up while going uphill. It would really lack power while going uphill and then as I got to the top, it would pick up power. That had nothing at all to do with throttle position. It didn't have much of a hot start issue until toward the very end of it's life. The last time that I drive the truck with that IP, I drove to town and every time that I shut it off and restarted it, the time that the starter had to turn the engine over before it started got noticeably longer. The very last time that I had to start the engine, I think it took 20+ seconds to start the engine. I drove straight home and put a used IP on the engine and it worked much better. The worst part was that this was the one and only IP that I had rebuilt by someone other the the "Big 4". It was only a couple of years old. I really didn't think it was going to make it all the way home because it was losing so much power going up hills.
 

Nero

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Or if you put too long of an upper water pump bolt in... Ask me how I know.
 

papadiesel

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Anyone consider the fuel cutoff solenoid? Make sure you hear a click inside IP when key activated and then if the metering vavle is stuck shut in the top of the pump.
 

Bluetent

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My first post,

Sorry to hear about your injection problems.

mine is a 94 1/2 IDI factory turbo. Had to remove / rebuild IP about 90k or so, now have 100k.

Started okay cold, not good, but would still go. MUCH worse when hot. Like no fire. Read NEVER put cool water on a hot IP. MAJOR damage. So that's what I did, got lucky, made it home.

Pump was shot, a ***** to remove, sent to an injection shop in Salt Lake. I think the owner / principal did a good job.

Will send shop name. Been doing the IDIs since they came out. Very competent and skilled.

Installed, RAN good, bought the timing tool but still need to do that job.

Need some input here. After installing IP, took the rig to the IP shop, all looked good, gave me a tip on timing. Then he had me pull the oil filler cap when running. HORRIBLE screech, really LOUD, like gear lash or rub. It's a new development.

IP shop said sometimes it happens, no idea how or why. He has seen before over the 30 +yrs on occasion. Has no answers. Also, have seen no damage, but I bet it's lurking.

If you have any solutions, I would appreciate an answer.

Thanks for the great blog.

Lou Ash
 

Bluetent

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Follow up

Name:Certified Injection Service
Title:Kyle
Main:+1 801-487-4937
Mobile:+1 801-707-7716
HomeAddress:1556 South 300 West
Salt Lake City
UT 84115

Notes:Andy cell 801 707 7716

Wally is the owner, getting grey now.

They took me in, looked at me like I was crazy, but gave me good service.
 

Cubey

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Follow up

Name:Certified Injection Service
Title:Kyle
Main:+1 801-487-4937
Mobile:+1 801-707-7716
HomeAddress:1556 South 300 West
Salt Lake City
UT 84115

Notes:Andy cell 801 707 7716

Wally is the owner, getting grey now.

They took me in, looked at me like I was crazy, but gave me good service.

Bookmarked in case I ever need the info when I'm in that part of the country. :Thumbs Up
 

IDIBRONCO

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Need some input here. After installing IP, took the rig to the IP shop, all looked good, gave me a tip on timing. Then he had me pull the oil filler cap when running. HORRIBLE screech, really LOUD, like gear lash or rub. It's a new development.

IP shop said sometimes it happens, no idea how or why. He has seen before over the 30 +yrs on occasion. Has no answers. Also, have seen no damage, but I bet it's lurking.

If you have any solutions, I would appreciate an answer.
There's no issue here. The noise that you heard with the oil fill cap off is gear noise. These have only gears from the pump drive gear down to the oil pump gear on the bottom of the crankshaft. They are very noisy.
 

IDIBRONCO

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IDI bronco, thanks, hoping that was so.
Without hearing it for myself, I can't be 100% certain that it was this sound, but I would bet that's what it is. It does sounds scary if you don't know about it and you aren't expecting anything like that.
 

MommaHobbit

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Ive got a new pump comming and I'll hopefully have er in this weekend. Thanks for all the good info. Ive got a follow up question though... How important is timing it after I get it in? Im not going to mess with the gear housing at all and as of right now she seems to purr pretty well. I called my local diesel mechanic to see if he could time it after I put the pump on and he seemed to think it wouldn't be worth the time and effort. I'm also not super into buying all the extra parts I need to do it myself.
 

Clb

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Timing is as important as the new ip.
See my sig line?
Look under the fleet list.

You only get 1 chance to do it right the FIRST time!
 

Big Bart

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These trucks are timing sensitive, so get the timing gear. Many just play around till they feel it is good enough. But do not know how close they got.

Those who have timing gear understand you are not going to time a IDI to 8.5* btdc at 2,000 rpm by ear. Timing that is off can cause a host of challenges like hard starting, smoking , over heating, damaged glow plugs, etc.

$200 is not in everyone’s budget, but it is highly recommended to buy one and do it right!
 
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