I think I fubared my ip...

[DaytonaBill]

I think I fubared my ip... FIXED!

Ok, here is the short story...

Nearly two months ago, I bought a used '90 7.3 IDI engine from a van and it has taken me all of this time to convert the engine to a F series engine and actually install it.

Before I took it to the garage, I took it to a car wash and washed it while it was sitting in the back of the bed. The inlet hard line to the ip was on but not plugged with a protective cap. I didn't think nothing of it, I just was happy being able to wash down my new replacement engine that sang a sweet tune to me when I went to listen to it before I helped pull it...

After having said all of that, I installed said engine and got fuel up to the fuel filter stand (am shooting fuel out of schrader valve...) but drained the batts twice trying to get the engine started...

I cracked all of the injector line nuts on the passenger side and cranked some more (ten secs)... All I got was a dribble and am getting a small amount of fine white mist out of the tail pipe.

If I got some foreign material in the ip, shouldn't the cone filter in the end cap of the ip catch that? Should I pull the cap and clean it, or would I be entering the twilight zone doing that?

I still have the ip from the former engine, but I didn't cap the open ends... Should I just clean the screen in that ip and swap that?

Both ip's were known to work, but I washed the bad one at the car wash without sealing the openings, thus I ruined that one (I suppose)...

But the other one hasn't been subjected to anything that would introduce foreign material into it, it's been sitting on the floor with all but the supply line still on it.

Do you guys think that I should take the end cap off, clean the screen, put it back together and use that one? Or is it even possible that moisture somehow got into it and rust formed somewhere?

Also, the Stanadyne torque specs call for the end cap to be torqued down to a value between 360 to 440 Inch/pounds... Would that be the same as 30 Foot/pounds to 36 Foot/pounds?

Please talk to me, I have to get this truck running and I can't afford to buy another ip...

Thanks guys...

 

[jwalterus]

Ok, here is the short story...

I installed said engine and got fuel up to the fuel filter stand (am shooting fuel out of schrader valve...) but drained the batts twice trying to get the engine started...

I cracked all of the injector line nuts on the passenger side and cranked some more (ten secs)... All I got was a dribble and am getting a small amount of fine white mist out of the tail pipe.

sounds like GP time honestly,there wouldn't be all that much water in the line (yeah, it sucks that it happened, but it sounds like it's still pumping fuel)
just crack em all and make sure it's diesel coming out

 

[TWeatherford]

Make double sure that your FSS is working. Just turn the key on, and disconnect and reconnect it several times and listen for it clicking.

If you have fuel to the filter, loosen all your injection lines and crank until you see it bubbling around the nuts. Then tighten them down, let the glowplugs cycle (its best to disconnect it until you're ready to start to save wear on them, and save the batteries). Of course if your IP is bad, it won't pump fuel to the injectors, but you definitely want them loosened to let it bleed off air.

You're correct on the torque spec. Just divide inch lbs by 12 to get foot lbs.

Hope one of your IPs end up working out for you.

 

[DaytonaBill]

I do hear the FSS click (with sparks too!) and it's a much heavier click than the one the rear connector makes (cold advance)...

GP's? Maybe not, it's in Daytona and it was in the mid 60's when I tried to start the engine, it's not cold enough for that to be a factor, but I could be wrong...

 

[79jasper]

60°F is fairly cold for these. Especially a higher mileage engine.

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[racer30]

Are you holding the throttle open about half way??? I would let the batteries charge overnight and try again tomorrow with some WD40 sprayed into the intake.

 

[Wyreth]

my 6.9 doesn't like to start at anything below 90* without at least a few seconds of glowplugs.

If you're getting white smoke out the tailpipe I wouldn't condemn the IP just yet. It's pumping fuel, you're just not getting it hot enough to go boom.
For right now, disconnect the GP relay for safety. Then soak a rag in gasoline, and put it on the intake. That, and good batteries/starter, should get her to fire.

If that works, and gets you running, then start looking into your glowplugs.

 

[DaytonaBill]

Mel and Gary, please tell me what you guys think?

I would appreciate being armed with any advice before I go tearing the end cap off my ip and I HAVE to get all of the advice I can get from the very people who work on these ip's, BEFORE tomorrow...

I.E., Can these ip's suffer a catastrophic epic fail from running beautifully to barely dribbling out, overnite?

Or just sitting around with the supply port open?

 

[OLDBULL8]

Remove the IP fuel inlet line, then remove the fitting on the IP, there should be a screen behind it, check for debris. Reinstall the fitting and line. Remove the return line on top of the IP at the injector cap, put that hose into a container, crank the engine over and see if you have a good flow of fuel there. Good flow, then put hose back on and try to start the engine with the lines to the injectors loose to bleed air.

 

[DaytonaBill]

Remove the IP fuel inlet line, then remove the fitting on the IP, there should be a screen behind it, check for debris. Reinstall the fitting and line. Remove the return line on top of the IP at the injector cap, put that hose into a container, crank the engine over and see if you have a good flow of fuel there. Good flow, then put hose back on and try to start the engine with the lines to the injectors loose to bleed air.

Thank you for verifying my theory of how I should go about this, I really appreciate that Oldbull8!

 

[icanfixall]

From what you have posted the internal screen "could" have plugged up. But for me to advise you it can be removed with the pump on the engine is not going to happen. Way too many tiny pieces of pump in that area and your working backwards. Make a center punch mark in the housing to pump joint. then remove the pump from the engine so its so much easier to work on the back of it. Remember and dirt that accidently gets into the pump back there will ruin the pump. So brakeclean is your friend plus white rubber gloves will prove you have all the dirt off the pump. If the gloves get dirty wash it again and replace the gloves. When the rear cone comes off the pump the internal transfer pump has 2 or the tiniest springs you have ever seen that holds the pump vanes out against the pump cavity. there are 4 vanes too and they have a front and back side plus a top and bottom as to how they have taken a set to the pump.

 

[DaytonaBill]

Thanks Gary for responding...

So it's possible for the transfer pump liner and vanes to be stuck to the regulator plate and come off the hydraulic head? I think I can handle that, but I'm more concerned about where I can find a new end cap seal...

Anyway, I know I have to take the pump off the engine, remove the lines in two halves and the pump will be in an upright position (rear end cap up) and I know about the clean room requirements, I'm on top of all of that...

I have a pdf copy of the Stanadyne DB2 Operation and Instruction Manual, plus the Stanadyne DB2 Torque Specifications...

I'm pretty sure that the transfer pump and regulator won't stump me for long, but one thing that I don't have is experience and that's where I was hoping I could tap into the pro's experience and help me hit the road running, so to speak...

After having said all of that. if I find any rust at all, that's where I'm stopping... It would then be out of reach of my present abilities to fix the ip... You know, rusted plungers and rotors and all...

The most important thing I could know how to do would be how I could reuse the end cap seal or where I could obtain one without having to buy a whole rebuild kit... Know what I mean, Vern?

 

[TahoeTom]

Dipaco makes pump install kits that have that seal, the large oring for the gear cover, some olives, and the gear mounting bolts. I got one from Midwest Fuel Injection. Maybe typ4 has them.

 

[DaytonaBill]

Thanks everybody that responded to my pleas for help, I didn't need to go into the IP...

It has a air intrusion issue that is bad enough to cause hard starting... I believe the problem is from the 'new' return kit.

It only had 2 straight caps and 6 corner caps... It's from Delphi... Anyway, I believe that the extra hose bias on the caps is causing a sideways load and thus the air intrusion... Won't know until I put some clear hose on the front and the back. Then I'll know which side it is on... Whee!!!

Anyway, I can start it with a little shot of ether (after the glow plugs cycle...) and it always starts up...

I'm going to go ahead and spend the extra money for some Ford caps (they are tighter on the o-rings) and recut the longer lines that the corner caps wanted...

Here is what I mean...

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So anyway, I have some minor issues to work out and then I can move on to some sound proofing... Yay!!!

Here's some engine ****!

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[79jasper]

Definitely shouldn't have been so many corner caps. That's almost guaranteed to be still causing it. Imo.

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