I am going to get slammed for even saying this.

[towtruckdave]

I know that the "proper" way to start my IDI is to turn the key on until the WTS light goes out and then crank. BUT, if it is below freezing or so, my truck will not start that way.

But even well below freezing, if I put in the key and start cranking right away, it starts hitting here and there and smoking after about 5 seconds and starts up right around the time the WTS goes out.

It has been like that since I bought it a few years ago. That includes 3 diff engines, IPs, GPs, 2 different GP controllers and engine harnesses. I have run the same mini style starter on each engine.

My truck does not get plugged in.

 

[Russ]

sounds like your batteries are week or don't have enough CCs to heat the GP's and still have enough power to spin the engine over long enough to get it to fire.

 

[rjjp]

sounds like your batteries are week or don't have enough CCs to heat the GP's and still have enough power to spin the engine over long enough to get it to fire.

Ditto.

 

[FORDF250HDXLT]

consider upgrading the battery cable that runs down to the starter from 2/0 to 3/0.
i went 3/0 throughout and she's just right there.
they used to use 3/0 down to the starter but changed to 2/0 sometime in the late 80's.
of course i should say, i would also follow the advice of the posts above firstly.making sure you get some bats with good cold cranking amps.if you see below 0 temps a lot,id go with dual 1k cca's.

 

[snaponprofile]

Mine started in 3 cranks at 20* the other day with no block heater after cycling the GP's. Ditto on batteries or cables.