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Hydroboost Question

Discussion in '6.9L IH & 7.3L IDI Diesels' started by mu2bdriver, Jul 16, 2015.

  1. mu2bdriver

    mu2bdriver Full Access Member

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    When changing out the brake pedal for a HB conversion, do you change out the entire bracket/pedal assembly or just the pedal which gets connected to the bracket? I found a SD bricknose pedal assembly and ripped out the entire bracket and all. It was a project and I'm glad the truck was getting scrapped after I was done with it.
    Thanks in advance.
     
  2. icanfixall

    icanfixall Official GMM hand model

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    This has to be a guess because you have not mentioned if standard or auto trans. If auto just the peddle needs changing. If standard the peddle shaft is larger so you need the bracket or everything the peddle connects to.
     
  3. IDIoit

    IDIoit MachinistFabricator Supporting Member

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    im going to be using my standard pedals.
    and relocating the pin on the brake pedal to the hydroboost
     
  4. mu2bdriver

    mu2bdriver Full Access Member

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    My apologies. I forgot that the question was also transmission specific. This is for an automatic.
     
  5. riotwarrior

    riotwarrior Supporting Member Supporting Member

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    Again fully lacking clear concise info

    Your truck u have now that u want to make a hulydroboost is auto correct?

    The SD you removed the pedal assembly from is a ?????????
     
  6. brokeasajoke

    brokeasajoke Full Access Member

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    I swapped the whole assembly after disassembling the doner checking bushings and adding grease to the cross shaft. Manual trans on my truck and donor. Didnt see point in taking apart pedal assemblies since both trucks were standard trans.
     
  7. mu2bdriver

    mu2bdriver Full Access Member

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    Q: Your truck u have now that u want to make a hulydroboost is auto correct?
    A: Correct.

    Q:The SD you removed the pedal assembly from is a ???
    A: 1990 Superduty automatic.

    The reason I ask is because during the removal of the HB bracket and pedal from the SD it was a bear to remove and if I can just remove the cotter pin/hair pin holding the shaft in and swap it with the bracket which is already mounted, it would make the conversion much easier. I was curious to hear what others did.
     
  8. riotwarrior

    riotwarrior Supporting Member Supporting Member

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    Pedal ahould swap straigjt across
     
  9. Dsl_Dog_Treat

    Dsl_Dog_Treat I lost my face to the jaws of a poodle Staff Member

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    If going from brick nose truck to brick nose truck, pedal swap wasn't needed for the 2 swaps I've done so far. No binding or braking concerns.
    Now going from a brick nose to bull nose setup, pedal swap was warranted.
     
  10. riotwarrior

    riotwarrior Supporting Member Supporting Member

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    For correct geometry of system as designed by engieers a pedal swap should be done.

    JM2CW
     
  11. FORDF250HDXLT

    FORDF250HDXLT The life of an Indian is like the wings of the air Supporting Member

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    i strongly agree with this statement.
     
  12. Snowmanw900

    Snowmanw900 Registered User

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    I know this subject has been over and over, but after reading several threads and posts on it, I may be a little confused. I'd like some clarification if you guys dont mind.

    I've got a 1990 F250 2wd with auto E4OD. I want to convert it to hydro boost.

    The donor truck is a 1988 or 1989 F450 2wd with standard transmission.

    Question is, do I need to change pedals? What other brackets or hardware needs used in this swap?

    Thanks!
     
  13. laserjock

    laserjock Almost there... Supporting Member

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    Yes. You need to change the brake pedal or relocate the pin.

    IMG_3828.JPG

    I can’t remember which pedal is which in this picture but there’s 3/4” difference in the pin height. It could cause geometry issues if you don’t.
     
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  14. gandalf

    gandalf Senior Member

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    As you state, this has been covered quite a bit. I'd suggest that you start by reading the three excellent articles in the TECH ARTICLE SECTION found at the top of this forum section. There is lots of good information there.

    That being said, I believe your selection will work, but I can't swear to it. The two variables to check are: 1) the pin connection placement for the hydroboost unit to the pedal, and 2) the placement of the pedal itself on the shaft it rides on, as well as the diameter of that shaft.

    The hydorboost unit I put on my truck ('92 F350 E4OD) came out of a mid to late '80s F450. I don't recall whether it had an E4OD or was standard. I found it at the local Pick-n-Pull. It went on with no alteration.
     
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  15. mblaney

    mblaney Full Access Member

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    ^^^^what he said. when you remove your vacuum system compare two boosters - firewall mount to pedal pin centers. It should be obvious that there is a difference (3/4").
     

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