Hydroboost, air filters & ceramic coating

[jaluhn83]

Going to combine several things here into one thread:

1) Is the hydroboost a bolt in conversion for an 85 F-250? I've seen some info saying the brake petal pin had to be modified and some that seems to indicate it's a bolt in fit.

2) Any recommendations on a ceramic coating shop in the socal area? I'm going to get the piston tops coated but don't really know what I'm looking for as far as picking out a shop / coating type. Would it make sense to coat the valve heads / chambers / anything else while I'm at it?

3) What are ya'll's thoughts on aftermarket air filters? The setup I'm running now uses a K&N cone filter that I picked primarily because it was what I could find that fit the available space when I was putting together my setup. I have since seen a lot of negative info on K&N filters so I'm considering going back to a conventional filter, though I don't know what I'd use. The nice thing about the K&N is I can get pretty much any size easily. The cummins guys seem to like a big cylindrical paper filter about 10"x10" but I can't think of how to fit that on my rig. Any ideas?

 

['94IDITurbo7.3]

the 7.3L guys swear by the napa 6637 air filter(paper element) or one fo the AFE filters. i don't remember which one they use from efe though.

i am running an AEM dryflow and i like it. only had it for a couple months. in the pleats you can see the dirt that it has caught. pretty cool actually lol.

 

[jaluhn83]

That might work, have to take some measurements. Odd that that filter is only rated for 450 cfm - that's not much for a turbo diesel. I'm figuring I'll be pulling around 700 cfm at max boost, (~25 psi @ 3000 rpm) and I figure that's about where a stock PSD would be too. I wonder if it's just a very conservative flow rating on the filter?

 

[The Warden]

1) Is the hydroboost a bolt in conversion for an 85 F-250? I've seen some info saying the brake petal pin had to be modified and some that seems to indicate it's a bolt in fit.

The pin needs to be relocated for it to work properly. As I understand it, it's possible to connect the rod to the pin meant for vacuum brakes, but it'll bind up a bit and make the pedal stiffer. IIRC the only way to get the pin in the right spot on a slant-nose pedal assembly is to weld it in place...unless there's a way to disassemble the pedal assembly and put in a brake pedal from a hydro-boosted brick-nose into the slant-nose pedal assembly?

I'm figuring I'll be pulling around 700 cfm at max boost, (~25 psi @ 3000 rpm)

I don't have any comment on the air filter except to support your decision to move away from K&N, but I saw this and had to comment...you're actually going to run your engine up to 3K RPM? I remember a time when you weren't comfortable running the engine above 2K RPM

 

[jaluhn83]

Do you know how much it has to move? I seems somewhat odd to me that you'd have to move it since the geometry should be the same for both

I might have hit 3k once or twice in the past 10 years.

 

['94IDITurbo7.3]

that filter has been proven on 400+ hop psd's. i think it was Beans that dynoed the truck with the filter and then just an open turbo and it had ZERO change in hp/tq

 

[icanfixall]

For the ceramic coating places give Tech Line Coatings a call. They sell the CBX coating I used. They will not sell directly to you but will send what you buy to a local shop they know can and will apply it SAFELY for you.. The piston top must be sand blasted. Blown off and coated just about that fast or a corrosion barrier begins on the new surfaces. Then the ceramic wont stay on the aluminum. This is how it was explained by the shop that did my work and Tech Line engineers.

 

[gatorman21218]

the brick nose pedals dont work only 92+ work. I dont know if the pedal assemblies will swap into a 80-86. the pedals are however auto/manual specific. I modified mine by drilling a 9/16 hole above the stock location (cant remember how far) and pushed a long grade 5 9/16 bolt through the hole and welded the head of it on the back side. I then cut the bolt to length and drilled a small hole through the end of the bolt for a cotter pin. I used a long bolt (3-4") so there were no threads left after i cut it to length

 

[79jasper]

the 7.3L guys swear by the napa 6637 air filter(paper element) or one fo the AFE filters. i don't remember which one they use from efe though.

i am running an AEM dryflow and i like it. only had it for a couple months. in the pleats you can see the dirt that it has caught. pretty cool actually lol.

+1 for the 6637. About to put one on my brothers 93 with the banks.

One could also install the ais severe duty intake from a powerstroke.
It's the best filter you can get. And actually flows better than the 6637.
(Both are made by Donaldson)
Only downside, it cuts back on turbo noise.
But what's more important: protecting your engine, or sounding cool?

 

[jaluhn83]

94idi, I guess that proves the point that the filter is very conservatively rated. Sounds like it'll work now all I have to do is figure out how to shoehorn it in somewhere... I was looking at the space outboard of the brake master cyl but it's not big enough and getting the piping around the master cyl would be challenging.

icanfxall, which coating do you use? I'm definitely going to sent it out to a shop, but want to make sure I have the right info first. The pistons are getting decked most likely 0.015" and will then go to get powder coated. Any thoughts on valve heads / chambers?

Good info on the hydro, thanks! Putting a new pin in seems relatively straight forward and I don't see any reason the grade 5 bolt setup wouldn't work.

What doesn't make any sense to me is why there's that much difference between the 2. Both bolt up the same and have the rod roughly centered on the 4 bolt pattern, so it seems like the pushrod location would be pretty close to the same. Probably make more sense if I actually put the 2 side by side though.

 

[idiabuse]

Conical filter AIR

I run a AMSOIL universal cone filter on mine, a dry filter that is advertised good for 4 years or 100,000 miles


http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produ...ersal-air-induction-filters/?code=EAAU4090-EA

 

[jaluhn83]

How are those different than K&N?

And why the heck don't they post a flow rating???? Or at least a surface area? I guess you're just supposed to pick the one you think looks the coolest and go from there?

 

[idiabuse]

They dont pass dirt into the engine like a K&N filter, they use a nanofibre that is made by Donaldson wich is dry and only needs to be blown clean. I dont know why they dont post flow ratings.

To increase filter surface area and the volume of air entering the engine, the top of many popular Ea Air Induction Filters (EaAU) is cut away. The media is inserted in a conical form pointing toward the direction of airflow.

All the InJen air intakes kits sold use AMSOIL filters So I am sure they passed the flow test when this company decided to select AMSOIL products.

There are enough selections of cone type filters to find one that fits your application.


Javier

 

[jaluhn83]

Except that the flow rating is about the most important thing to know for trying to find a filter to fit a specific application - I can look at the outside dimensions sure, but the whole idea is trying to make sure it's correctly sized for the engine. Yes, I'm over thinking it, but I want to do it correctly the first time.

 

[79jasper]

I run a AMSOIL universal cone filter on mine, a dry filter that is advertised good for 4 years or 100,000 miles


http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produ...ersal-air-induction-filters/?code=EAAU4090-EA

Those are the same media as the ais severe duty I mentioned.
Great media. Damn near stop anything.
I've heard of people knocking a few pounds of dust out of them during use.

That media type was originally designed for the abrams tank.