Hydroboost, air filters & ceramic coating

[LCAM-01XA]

Ok, thanks! Thought it was super duty specific but if not I should be able to find one easily. My an it to gut it and retain the stock prop valve.

Oh, that's right, you're in the same boat as Bike Maker, w/ a combination valve on the frame. Well I'd say you have two choices, one is to gut an '87-up master cylinder valve to just use it as an adapter fitting, and the other is to ditch the factory valve altogether and use the '87-up master cylinder valve in its stock form. Running both valves intact, I'd be concerned about having too little rear line pressure.

The master cylinder valve itself is probably Superduty-specific, yes, but its threads aren't - it would appear that all the '87-up trucks use the same valve threads in the master cylinder. That's why I said to get one from a truck with similar GWVR as yours, cause that truck's wheel brakes will be very close to yours in size and braking ability, and so its valve that was made to work w/ those brakes will be a good match for your brakes too. Assuming of course you bypass your factory metering block.

You can always get two valves, one to gut and one to keep stock, then try each one and see which you like better?

 

[idiabuse]

Hope this helps you understand the differences....

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That's the modded pedal I had to make up to fit MY pedal box setup for 87-91 truck.

JM2CW

Al

I thought about doing that but instead I drilled a new hole in the right location and then ground of the welds
on the pin from the back side and the pin pushed out, welded the hole shut and pushed the pin into the new
hole and welded the back side up, all done.

 

[idiabuse]

I run teh amsoil filters as well, Huge difference between them and K&N, as the Amsoil filters dont let crap into your engine. The element is designed to trap particles at different layers instead of just at the surface, so it doesnt quickly clog HOWEVER it is not a super free flowing air filter by any stretch of the imagination, these things are designed to keep your engine the cleanest possible, and that they do. If running synthetics with extended drain intervals, letting dirt in through your air intake is the fastest way to shorten the life of your oil. Running the best air filtration possible is the best insurance that you are going to be able to keep that high dollar oil in there as long as possible. If you are running a turbo, it is going to pull all the air through the filter that you could ever use, so sticking something on your engine that is not much more than a window screen to try to get more power, is really a waste
Realistically, I noticed that the k&N that I had that trashed my turbo allowed for a very slightly quicker spool up. So I did some head to head comparing to see how it acted in other ways , and also noticed that with the K&N my blowby oil consumption went WAY up . Aparantly when you get an air filter that has too little restriction, you mess up the function of the CDR and make it basically a paperweigh( the CDR depends on a certain amount of vacuum to balance it out and help scavange blowby gasses, if its not there, you have a problem as pressure will build to a point to where oil starts belching out )t. With the Amsoil filter oil consumption is very minimal ( top off every 5000 miles ) so a slight bit of whistle VS multiple excess quarts of oil consumed. Kind of a no brainer.

While Im not a huge fan of open cone fllters on diesel engines without an enclosed water shedding housing, if someone wanted to use one of the cone style, they just need to measure the surface area of the stock turbo filter, then look through the catalog at cone filters with the pipe diameter they need and start calculating the filter surface area on those filters until yoiu find one with as much surface area as the original filter Dont go bonzo or you'll wind up with too little restriction and , oil consumption issues. These filters primarily are concerned with cleaning. They filter down to .8micron and filter out 50 times more dust than a K&n, thats a heck of a lot of turbo and ring damage, although not a striking amount more than a paper filter, but they do flow more evenly than a paper, since a paper filter will clog across the surface and build excess restriction quickly and a nanofiber filter takes a very long time for the element to evenly fill up, and when it finally does, you just take it off, fire up the air compressor on low pressure and blow it off, and poke it back in, no washing, no oiling. Nice and simple. I can even clean mine with my onboard air in a truckstop parking lot.

I had met this guy at the PRI show in Orlando and watched his demonstration and was a bit amazed the paper filter was poor at filtration.
Of course I knew the K&N was poor also.
Well anyway I had a AMSOIL filter new in the box that I challenged him into testing, when the test was over the amount of people grew and he had
asked me to leave because people were a bit suprised to see how well the blue filter held up.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4r8NajjYkFA


Javier

 

[jaluhn83]

Oh, that's right, you're in the same boat as Bike Maker, w/ a combination valve on the frame. Well I'd say you have two choices, one is to gut an '87-up master cylinder valve to just use it as an adapter fitting, and the other is to ditch the factory valve altogether and use the '87-up master cylinder valve in its stock form. Running both valves intact, I'd be concerned about having too little rear line pressure.

The master cylinder valve itself is probably Superduty-specific, yes, but its threads aren't - it would appear that all the '87-up trucks use the same valve threads in the master cylinder. That's why I said to get one from a truck with similar GWVR as yours, cause that truck's wheel brakes will be very close to yours in size and braking ability, and so its valve that was made to work w/ those brakes will be a good match for your brakes too. Assuming of course you bypass your factory metering block.

You can always get two valves, one to gut and one to keep stock, then try each one and see which you like better?

I'm just going to run the stock frame valve. It seems to work well and it's already there. Getting rid of the frame mounted valve would require some significant modification of the brake lines. Don't think the questionable gain if worth it, nor the headache.

Down the road I'm looking at running discs on the rear so at that point I may have to play with the prop valve....

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Yeah, the only advantage of switching to the '87-up valve would be cause it simplifies the brake lines a lot, which is good when you have to run new ones. If what you got now is in decent shape and works good, I'd leave it be as well.

However, if you're using the F-Superduty master cylinder, you may be able to tie its float sensor into the wiring for the combination valve, which will trigger the dash light not only when you blow a line and lose pressure in one brakes circuit, but also if you have a small leak somewhere and you're gradually losing fluid (like it happens when the rear seal of the master or the bottom seals of the reservoir decide to let go).

 

[jaluhn83]

Yah, lines are in good shape and the prop valve is actually new several years ago - I did all new hydraulics and rubber lines when I first went through the truck.

For sure going to use the float sensor. That's another nice plus of the superduty mc