HX35 Results

jaluhn83

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I mentioned deleting the mechanical vacuum pump - this is what I replaced it with:

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This is an electric vacuum pump setup off a late 80's Volvo. In stock form vacuum is used for 3 things on these trucks - HVAC, brake boost and cruise control. The brake boost is the most critical and needs a large volume so it limits what you can do to replace the stock pump. But go to hydroboost and that restriction goes away. I'm running an all electric cruise system off a 92-94 truck on my rig, so all I need it for is HVAC.

This pump setup is a self regulating pump - the box on the end has a controller that cycles on at ~22 inhg and off at ~25. This makes it easy - connect and go. I am not sure on the rated duty cycle but I'd think it's pretty good. These pumps were used on mid 80's Volvo 760 turbos with automatic climate control to boost the vacuum to the HVAC system under boost as the limate control system operated using a metered vacuum control that requires a constant vacuum to function properly. The Volvo part number is 1329604, but it's $350 from them. I've found a few in junkyards - looks for 740/760/780 cars and look on the driver's front fender area.

Or look around:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Volvo-740-760-Vacuum-Pump-out-of-1984-Turbo-2-3-/400563416712?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5d4370ae88&vxp=mtr

The pump appears to be an OE AC Delco unit and I suspect other late 80's 'luxury' cars would have used the same or similar but don't know of any for sure.

It does work well though. Make sure and get the mounting frame and the rubber mounts - with my setup you can barely hear it running. I left the stock small circular resiqviour attached and it takes about 15 seconds to pump down and kick off, then has enough vacuum to cycle through all the HVAC settings without coming back on. Do make sure the system is tight though, it's sensitive to small leaks.

This unit is setup with 3 wires - power, switched hot & ground. Power goes to +12 and ground is obvious, then when you put power to the switched lead it'll come on. I tied the switched lead to the fan power wire (brownish red wire) so anytime the fan motor is running the vacuum pump is online. The fan speed control works on the ground side so this will work for all fan speeds.
 

freebird01

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basically the same spot as the banks sidewinder kit. i was told before you could figure about another 200 deg higher for the inside cylinder temps.

still sounds reasonable...maybe when i get my 7.3 together ill work a bit more at trying to fit the wh1C i got to the banks pedestal
 

HS108

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im not expert but i feel ford switched from 3.55/4.10 to 3.73/4.10 for a reason

maybe EGTs.. lack of pulling power. i know 6bt's do it with no issue but thats apples to oranges.

What year did they switch? I have 4.10s but I feel they are too tall, 373's would be perfect
 

BrandonMag

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What year did they switch? I have 4.10s but I feel they are too tall, 373's would be perfect

I'm not positive, but I think it was in'99 when the Super Duties came out (metric bolt pattern).
 

Goose_ss4

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removal of the vacum pump????? p pump anyone, lol!!!

on a belt drive hahah.
 

jaluhn83

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Also a bit more of a performance update since I finally fixed the exhaust leak i had properly - the bottom of the up pipe flange wasn't square and causing a significant leakage issue.

With the exhaust system tight I'm now making a solid 20 psi max and the lower end boost is much more responsive. I hit 5 psi more or less right off idle and as much as 10 under light load. I've made several trips with the horse trailer and 1-2 horses up the I-8 grade and never had to downshift out of 4th. She seems to run best at about 3/4 throttle, ~2000 rpm and 15-18 psi. Over that I can see the coolant temps start to creep up and it feels like the power falls off a bit. I strongly suspect this is the effect of the intake air being superheated probably combined with the full throttle timing retard. Hopefully once I get the intercooler fully hooked up this effect with lessen.

Still very happy with the setup overall - good power and responsive.

Next project is getting the doug nash box in so I can split gears - then I'll be able to pretty much pull anything. Looks like I'm probably going to go to a 4.10 rear and double overdrive, but may stay with the 3.55 and use an underdrive.
 

jaluhn83

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Yep, regular dodge cummins HX35W. IIRC off a 98. 12 cm housing I think, though I'm not sure. The one I have is the 8 blade compressor, the later ones use a 7 blade that is supposed to flow slightly more although some info I found suggested this is at the expense of low flow efficiency.
 

Greg5OH

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your thread is part of the reason i also went hx35 (and also they are cheap!) i got a 14cm ex housing with 56mm inducer, also 8 blade. i see 10 psi highway crusing at 70-75 and can hit 20-25 unloaded. I am using a 6.0 intercooler, pumped maxed, R&D stage 1 injectors and have yet to see over 900F on the pyro. This weekend will be towing 5k lbs, baby weight but its all i got, excited to see how she does. Boost is very responsive, and my uppipes are very short (powerstroke style)
 

Goose_ss4

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Are you guys running studs?

And do you have any pictures???? Of your set ups
 

Greg5OH

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ye sstuds torques to 145 ft lbs, stock gaskets. I pulled out one bolt, replaced with stud, one by one.
pics of my setup are in my build thread, somewhere around page 40 or so, "realistic budget of a 2wd to 4wd conversion"
 

jaluhn83

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Studs and 0.015" decked pistons with ceramic coating on mine.

I wouldn't do it without both.

Greg, I would be very hesitant to be running that kind of boost with the stock cr - even on mine I try to be careful going over about 15psi. Also would recommend against over torquing the studs - per ARP they are supposed to be tightened to the stock torque. Torquing them too much will cause them to start yielding and can cause weakening and failure. I've had no issues with mine at 85 ft-lb (iirc) and I'm at something like 30k miles now.

Here's what pics I have - didn't take too many unfortunately. The first couple are an earlier incarnation to show the general turbo system layout - it's a completely cobbled together system.

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Greg5OH

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No worries on the studs, check out the torque test justin did at FTE.160 ft lbs no problem.
 
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