How to get camber bushings out

[smithman]

Check on rock auto for alignment bushings. They have a huge selection of various brands and I have a set of 6 position solid raybestos ones that key into the tabs on the arm. These carry some advantages to tweak it on the fly, more flexibility over the 2 pos slugs.

For the center pivot bushings I replaced mine proactively when I rebuilt my truck but the stock ones still seemed in usable condition with no rot or sleeve issues. I don't know if there's an easy way to inspect them on the truck without being unbolted.

 

[ISPKI]

Well I will likely have to unbolt them anyways since it seems like my last option to align my front end is mostly likely some shallow drop brackets. I have never searched for these but what do you guys think about this:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Axle-Pivot-Drop-W-Camber-For-2-4-Lift-F250-87-96-4x4-/141357905865

 

[snicklas]

How much distance is there now between the axle and bump stop? That will also help give some suggestions also.

At the moment, I’m leaning toward something else wrong. It should have messed both sides he fairly equally.

 

[ISPKI]

I will have to measure it but pass side looks to be a couple inches more space.

I actually drove the truck down the road and it looks like the wheels straightened out a fair amount. I will get some pictures up this afternoon.

 

[Thewespaul]

After driving the springs will definitely settle some, you should get the alignment sorted after things settle a bit to avoid doing the job twice.

Pivot bushings can easily last 200k miles, but if the engine is leaking diesel and oil, it can eat up the stock style rubber bushings fast. One side getting fuel dripped on it more can cause one side to sit different than the other, poly bushings eliminates this issue.

 

[ISPKI]

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Here are some before bushing and driving down the road, and after bushing and driving down the road. Squared up rather nicely, still going to at least get alignment checked, feels like it pulls left a bit as it drives.

 

[franklin2]

If the caster is off side to side, that will cause it to pull a little bit. There are no 2 part bushings, the camber and caster are adjusted with the one bushing. When they set it up on the alignment machine and go through it's paces, the computer on the alignment machine will tell them what degree of bushing each side needs and where to set them at to get the camber and caster in the ballpark all at one shot.

 

[ISPKI]

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Thats a 2 pc bushing that, I believe could adjust caster and camber independant of each other. Although I hear they are not nearly as durable as the 1 piece design.

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That is the style that I installed which I believe only adjusts camber as it has only 2 settings, +2 or -2 degrees camber. The cog style bushings would allow caster adjustment as well.

 

[BR3]

There is also a tool made for this.

https://www.uniquetruck.com/product...lR8RRVr0y2Sc7bNOrF2e4XH7TfAqbs3BoCrPcQAvD_BwE

Works great, and not just on Ford's either, albiet expensive

 

[smithman]

Was tearing down a spare axle today and came across the same rusty mess.
A massive soak in penetrating lube, and a balljoint press is all that's needed. My OTC has never failed me for U and Balljoints, and this was no exception.
I did mine on the floor but you can do this on the truck.

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