How much CO2...?

Kizer

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All it takes is oil seal failure@ turbo to create a runaway condition.
I should be able to get it working for fewer than $200. For that $200 I get "runaway insurance" and cheap onboard air.
 

Kizer

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I have no idea. This is my first turbo..haven't taken it apart yet.
I'd guess that it's model specific...depending on how the oil is plumbed through to cool the turbo.
You motivated me to look it up.
Are you being facetious?
If you know something that I don't, please do tell...
 

Kizer

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Looks like the leak would have to be bearing or bearing chase related to cause problems...to me.
 

PwrSmoke

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Not to put words in Black Dog's post, I think the point to which he is alluding is that even if the seal fails, it's not enough oil to be a problem unless the turbo drain is plugged. The oil drains out of the turbo housing very quickly. Also, there is the pressure differential to consider. If you look at the turbo housing where the bearing are, you will see that once the oil enters it, there is a massive pressure drop and most of the pressure is dissipated. The pressure in the compressor side housing is going to be higher than the pressure in the bearing housing. The same is true on the turbine side. There may be some isolated, remote circumstance, where many things have happen at once on a turbo that is especially susceptible to a problem where a runaway might happen, but the chances are so remote. A perfect storm that has a risk potentiantial in the fractions of a percent. I'm not even sure the oil flow from the oil line is even enough for the engine to run away on unless you plumbed it direct to feed into the intake. That isn't to say lube oil flowing into the intake isn't a bad thing (carbon buildup, combustion issue, etc.), I just don't see it as a worry-worthy problem on our IDIs and the turbos commonly seen on them.
 
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Kizer

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I truly appreciate an explanation as opposed to the useless question intended to embarrass. Thanks again Jim
 

Kizer

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The only thing that would concern me is the fact you have a Banks Sidewinder turbo. If the oil return goes into the intake where the CPR was, that extra drain holes were not punched into it. The early intake gaskets will not allow the return oil to drain fast enough. The later gaskets for turbo's are made for return oil to drain out quickly.
To use a CO2 extinguisher, you would have to trigger it manually. A solenoid would not hold the pressure which exceeds around 250 PSI in the bottle, unless you have something like a nitrogen injection setup, even then the nitrogen solenoid has very small passages, which would not allow the volumn needed. Just my thoughts.

Pic is the new style. The hole at the far right is for the brass plug for any fluid to drain down the back side of the engine that might leak into the upper pan.
Now I understand what you're saying.
 

dunk

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Personally I think this is silly. If I was going to plumb in CO2 for a runaway I'd sooner put in an electronic gate valve to shut off air. I read somewhere all the oil field trucks have them since there can be flamables in the air. If you wanted to be really fancy you could wire it in to an RPM switch and oil PSI switch or any scenario you want the engine off to prevent damage. Personally if I was concerned I'd just do a gate valve to a toggle switch below the dash, or since I'm cheap I'd look for a cable actuated butterfly valve and use a choke cable.

My personal runaway stopping plan is a piece of 2x6 in the bed and stuff it over the intake. Alter your 2x or other air blocking device to suit your intake/filter setup. Might take a moment to stop, yes it'll rev higher as I remove load from it and pop the hood, but it should at least minimize damage and hopefully prevent windowing the block if I ever have a runaway. Doesn't seem to common though so I'm not worried beyond a simple mental "what if" game.
 

Black dawg

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I truly appreciate an explanation as opposed to the useless question intended to embarrass. Thanks again Jim

I asked the question with full intent to explain, just didnt get back to the thread, my LIFE got in the way. Didnt see the point of explaining without an answer
 
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Black dawg

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To add something possibly positive to this thread for a change (from me anyway), wouldnt a cable operated intake shutoff valve be a pretty easy solution to this?
 

david85

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Personally I think this is silly. If I was going to plumb in CO2 for a runaway I'd sooner put in an electronic gate valve to shut off air. I read somewhere all the oil field trucks have them since there can be flamables in the air. If you wanted to be really fancy you could wire it in to an RPM switch and oil PSI switch or any scenario you want the engine off to prevent damage. Personally if I was concerned I'd just do a gate valve to a toggle switch below the dash, or since I'm cheap I'd look for a cable actuated butterfly valve and use a choke cable.

You are 100% correct about oil field vehicles. Everything from pickup trucks to big rigs, to off road stationary power plants are required to have positive engine shut offs. The complete system isn't cheap though ("Safety" and "Oilfield" are never used in the same sentence as "Affordable" LOL). The advantage is that it can be easily reset any number of times at no extra cost.
 

Kizer

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Man! The shut off valves, I've looked at so far, must be $$$. No prices listed...they look expensive too!
 

Kizer

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You'd think one or two would surface..used or auctioned off, installed on oilfield equipment.
Guess I'll start with equipment auctions.
 

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