How do I know if I need a new IP and or injectors?

[fields_mj]

I've had my truck for a year and a half now. It has 180K on it, and I THINK everything on the fuel system is still original (excpet the filter of course). I have long suspected that I need to replace the injectors and have the IP rebuilt/replaced, but as more time goes by I'm not sure if that is the case or not. I've lost at least 1 glow plug, maybe more. I installed a bypass for the controller, and with temps down around zero the engine normally took 2 five or six second gp cycles to start, and I don't figure that to be too bad for missing a gp. When it's cold out she smokes quite a bit for the first 20 or 30 sec, but after that she seems to smoke a lot less. When the engine is warm, it hardly smokes (white) at all. When the weather is warm, I'll get a pretty big puff of white smoke on start up, but in less than 5 sec, it's gone.

So does this mean that the fuel system needs worked over or not? What should I really be looking for to determine the condition? I'm going to have to pay someone to do this in the spring if it needs it. It would take me an entire weekend to do it in the drive way, and that's if I'm REALLY REALLY LUCKY! Besides that, I'll probabaly have to pay someone to do the timing, so I might as well pay them to do the rest of it as well. I don't mind spending the money to have it done if it needs it. That's not a problem. I just don't want to drop $600 on parts, plus who knows how much on labor if everything is fine. Suggestions?

Thanks,
Mark

 

[coletrain777]

The condition/symptoms you describe don't sound like much out of the normal. That's not to say that your fuel related parts are getting worn, but the conditions you describe seem to be about like most people's truck. The fact that your truck will start in zero degree weather without being plugged in is a good sign (you do mean unplugged correct?).

 

[coletrain777]

The smoke on startup when it is warm could be a tell-tale sign that the IP is worn... but I will wait for others to chime in.

 

[Agnem]

Typically these trucks will still run well with worn fuel system components. The problem is, you have lost performance and fuel economy without realizing it. The IP and Injectors really should be replaced every 100K regardless of how it runs. This is the equivelent of a "tune up". After all, if you had a gas engine, you would replace plugs, rotor, cap, etc on an engine of the same vintage. The idea is to stay ahead of stuff BEFORE it causes you a problem, rather than wait for it to become an issue you can't ignore. Your injectors by now have a very poor spray pattern, and probably leak down. That picture of the Moose Truck in my avatar is what 3 bad injectors look like in a truck that runs fine.

 

[icanfixall]

Mel is correct with what he posted above... We do see other members posting about their trucks "running great" with many more miles on original pumps and injectors. I feel they really do not feel what they have lost over the years of continued use of worn out parts. Replacing the injectors and injection pump mkes these worn out fuel systems seem like you added 2 more cylinders to these motors... They really wake up... I switch back and forth between my Moose pump and my pensacola stock pump... I see and feel the differance. Its really hard to feel the slow decay of a good fuel system The norm is 100,000 miles on th fuel system componets is about all we normally get. Fuel filters are changed like oil filters and the E4OD tps switch needs to be replaced every 50,000 miles. Those wear out and then the trans shifts badly. They are a potencameter type switch like a old ford heater control. So a contact is rubbing across a wire grid and that wears out causeing dead spots... Not a great thing at all... Fuel systems are a gradual decaying process that most can't feel. If you towed heavy all the time its easier to feel the loss in power like when pulling a grade....

 

[fields_mj]

The start ups that I'm describing are done with out being plugged in. If the truck has been plugged in, I normally don't have to cycle the GP. I just crank the key, and she starts up. It takes a few seconds, but less than 5. I have cycled the GP on cold mornings with the engine plugged in, and she starts on about the third turn of the engine. I should probably do that all the time, but with the engine a little warmer I'm just afraid of popping another plug.

Thanks for the feedback guys. I will continue with my plans. I figured a worn system would be hard to notice unless you had an identical sytem in good condition to compare it to. I just wasn't sure if there were any tell tail early warning signs to look for. I know that the PO didn't do anything with the fuel system, but they didn't have any idea how many miles they put on it either. Last time I checked (late last summer) I was getting in the high 17s for millage. That's with 3.55 gears, and a ZF5. Half my driving is about 65mph on a 4 lane, and the other half is 50ish on some winding back roads with the last 5 miles being 45 in town. On the highway only, I think I could get 18 out of her. With my previous tires, I think I could have gotten high 18s, but they were 16.5x33. I thought I would have gained a tadd going back to stock tires, but the grip must be good enough that I actualy lost some. That's okay though, I'll take the grip every time

Thanks again folks!
Mark