Oldtowntrucks

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Anybody know if it'd be possible to unplug the high idle (cold start) solenoid and have it rigged to your own toggle switch other than being run by the system? Not sure if i'd change anything for the operation of the engine, other than of course having to have that feature as manual choice then.
'93 f250 7.3 idi
Thanks
 

rsaltaresjr

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I did it when my temp switch went bad. All I did was disconnect the wires at the temp switch and used blade crimps to connect to a pair of wires routed through the firewall and into a rocker switch in the cab. Simply put, extend the temp switch wires to the cab and use a manual switch. It is nice to be able to raise the idle speed during extended idle periods. It raises the oil pressure a bit just like the big trucks.
 

Oldtowntrucks

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I did it when my temp switch went bad. All I did was disconnect the wires at the temp switch and used blade crimps to connect to a pair of wires routed through the firewall and into a rocker switch in the cab. Simply put, extend the temp switch wires to the cab and use a manual switch. It is nice to be able to raise the idle speed during extended idle periods. It raises the oil pressure a bit just like the big trucks.

This actually seems to be more of what I was kind of hoping to do, unfortunately I just did my cooling system & replaced that cold start temp switch without much thought :/ .. Sometimes I need to get going before the truck "is fully warmed up" & and I hate putting my E40D in gear while it has the 900-950rpm high idle; it just seems to lurch quite a bit more and I feel like its unnecessary strain on stuff, although if I'm wrong on that matter I'd like to be corrected.

As I understand with the solenoid guide that Tbrumm posted, by doing that mod, you can have a high idle toggle switch wired in, but the cold start/high idle part of the system will still function as normal when the truck is cold starting - just that you'll then be able to high idle on command then. I'd like to be able to disable it/have it on a toggle so I can drop the idle & put the truck in gear to go about my business.
 

Oldtowntrucks

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I did it when my temp switch went bad. All I did was disconnect the wires at the temp switch and used blade crimps to connect to a pair of wires routed through the firewall and into a rocker switch in the cab. Simply put, extend the temp switch wires to the cab and use a manual switch. It is nice to be able to raise the idle speed during extended idle periods. It raises the oil pressure a bit just like the big trucks.


Hey for that temp switch workaround that you did, did you have the rocker switch power going to both of the temp switch wires (joined together)?
 

Thewespaul

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You only want it on the output, otherwise you will have current backfeeding to your glowplugs and ignition all the time.
 

Oldtowntrucks

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You only want it on the output, otherwise you will have current backfeeding to your glowplugs and ignition all the time.

Thanks yeah, that was a 'blond' moment. As soon as I got outside a big "DUH" moment hit me. Got it wired in and working as it should now, thanks guys!
 

rsaltaresjr

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The power comes from the harness. Extend the wires to the cab and add a switch, that's it. All the temp swith does is close the circuit when the water is cold and open the circuit when the water is hot.
 

franklin2

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You guys make a fuss over this cold start system all the time. I know the factory put it on there, and if they could have saved a dollar on each truck and leave it off they would have, but mine doesn't work, and I do not have any noticeable problems with it. I too added a switch when my sensor went bad, I just ran two wires to the original sensor plug-in, did not need to run a diode.

But after doing the switch and using it for awhile, I found no advantage to having it. Yes it would idle a little faster in the beginning when it was cold, but other than that, I saw no difference. I am wondering if this was another effort to help clean up the emissons a little bit when the engine is cold.
 

rsaltaresjr

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I think it all depends on personal preference. I like having the high idle for cold starts. I also like it for extended idling. I understand your point of view but, I prefer that everything be functional on my truck. Case in point, I had to disconnect my fuel filter head heating element because it was shorting and blowing a fuse. So far I can start without it but, I've already ordered a new one. So yeah, everyone has opinions on this and everything else. Good talk.
 

Thewespaul

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The cold advance was mostly for emissions, and to reduce housing pressure in the injection pump to aid in the starting cycle. Being in Texas, my trucks don’t use them, but it can be helpful for helping to warm the truck up quicker inthe winter and for any rpm dependent accessories added onto the engine, like external water heaters, pto or an air pump. Just depends on your use
 

Oldtowntrucks

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You guys make a fuss over this cold start system all the time. I know the factory put it on there, and if they could have saved a dollar on each truck and leave it off they would have, but mine doesn't work, and I do not have any noticeable problems with it. I too added a switch when my sensor went bad, I just ran two wires to the original sensor plug-in, did not need to run a diode.

But after doing the switch and using it for awhile, I found no advantage to having it. Yes it would idle a little faster in the beginning when it was cold, but other than that, I saw no difference. I am wondering if this was another effort to help clean up the emissons a little bit when the engine is cold.

I only did mine because my truck has the E40D, if it had the ZF5 (I wish) then I wouldn't have bothered. Diode method and bypassing the cold temp switch are wiring it two different methods though. Like the other boys said, pretty much just up to your own personal preference..
 

flyarmyguns

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Here is my solution....
I run a PremierPower under-hood welder and I need to make pretty fine speed adjustments. The manual PTO throttle was the easiest solution. By using the power port to mount it the vernier cable runs straight through the firewall to the engine with only a couple small bends.
 
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