HELP truck died in middle of the road

[pwjackson]

Here is some more food for thought. I have ruled out battery connections as I could jump the starter relay on the fender and the truck turned over fine. Also my hazard lights still work. So for some reason I am not getting power to anything else. Does the yellow wire that everyone has mentioned control all power going into the dash or to the ignition switch that is close to the floor? I am going to check that grey connector again and or remove it and splice the wire together. Also going to replace the ignition switch down by the floor and go from there.

 

[madpogue]

It's likely one of the fusible links coming off the junction at the starter relay.

 

[Kevin 007]

Yes if your not getting power to anything else, its probably a fusible link. The hazards and horn will still work as they are hardwired. And if there is no power to anything else, you fuel shutoff solenoid also doesn't have power= truck dying,

 

[pwjackson]

So I should bypass all the fusable links on the passanger side fender?

 

[Kevin 007]

Yeah. See wher that gets you in regards to power and then you KNOW. You can then do as you wish to install some fusible link...or leave it. But why did it burn up in the first place?? Unless it was just corrosion

 

[pwjackson]

Yeah that is the million dollar question why did it do to begin with? I have yet to find anything that looks burnt or that has been hot. I am guess just corrosion or a wire is loose. But I will by pass all of those links, one at a time and see if that gets me anywhere.

 

[pwjackson]

Well I have a new developement. I opened my truck door to get some gloves out and my dome light came on. I did not have a dome light the other day when everything died. So for ***** and giggles I turned the key to see if anything else would work and as soon as I turned the key the dome light when out. So for now I am going to replace the ignition lock cylinder and if that doesn't fix the problem and I going to change the switch. I want to try these first since they are not expensive and probably need replaced anyways before I start cutting and splicing wires.

 

[Matrix37495]

All the lock cylinder does is move a rod. If you want to replace the switch itself (i don't think it's the problem), it's near the floor on the top of the column.

 

[79jasper]

The switch nor lock have anything to do with the domelight.

 

[madpogue]

^^^^^ +1; what probably happened was that the additional current load of turning the key to RUN overwhelmed a weak circuit somewhere (pointing right back to a hinky connection off the battery and/or a fusible link), causing the dome light to go off.

 

[79jasper]

If you wanna fix it;
Step one- turn key on
Step two- get someone to sit inside and watch gauges, lights, etc..
Step three- start jiggling every wire connection you can find, plus wires themselves.
Step four- when you find the location of wires/connectors that make a change, start jiggling each individual wire until you find the root cause.
Step five- fix it!!!

It's just electric. Not really that hard to fix if you even want it fixed. I guess I must just have a sixth sense for sniffing out wiring problems, because it never takes me that long to fix it.

Just a thought, does power running into the cab run through the voltage regulator?

 

[Matrix37495]

Just a thought, does power running into the cab run through the voltage regulator?

According to my wiring diagrams, no.

Gimme a sec to upload a couple...

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[79jasper]

I was just wandering. I know some cars did.
I probably overlooked it, but the only voltage regulator I saw was in the instrument cluster. Is that the one?

 

[Matrix37495]

That diagram doesn't cover the 1G alt our trucks have even though it's the correct year... Oh well...

Heres a 1G wiring diagram...

http://oldfuelinjection.com/public/alternator/1G-ALT_wiring.gif

 

[91idi]

I had a truck do this. I put a ground from the cab to the battery. Fixed my problems. I used a 10 ga wire.