Hello Everyone. So thanks to the overwhelming support on OB I diagnosed my 7.3 IDI with stock turbo in my 93 F350 as having a frozen piston. I yanked the engine, had it bored out .040 over, sleeved, and reinstalled it with the refurbished turbo. Now its time to test fire and the engine will just crank endlessly. It smokes a lot but does not act like it wants to turn over. For the sake of my starter I need to figure out whats keeping it from starting. I cracked the fuel lines on the injectors and fuel is coming out and gurgling out of the shrader valve. Any further ideas? Thanks in advance!
HELP: Rebuilt Engine won't start
- Thread starter Camo_Kidd
- Start date
Waystro
No Class
What color is the smoke?
Maybe the fuel filter is clogged
Sounds like air to me. How long have you been trying to crank?
Maybe the fuel filter is clogged
Sounds like air to me. How long have you been trying to crank?
turbo elk
Full Access Member
Sounds to me like a timing issue
Are you reusing your old injection pump? Did you mark the static timing before you removed the pump? You will need a good set of batteries, these engines need to spin fast to start. If you have a mechanical fuel pump it may take quite a few rounds of cranking and letting the starter cool.
the smoke was white. I did some more research and found about the timing marks on the infection pump (which I did reuse, I aligned its tdc mark with the tdc mark on the engine my engine builder put on). After I did that it started stumbling and begging to turn over and pouring black smoke but still wont quite idle on its own.
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
Your issue sounds like timing. Not knowing your rebuilder or if this guy knew the cam gear has 2 distinkly different timing marks. He may have set it 180 degrees out of time. Surprisingly these engines will run 180 degrees out too but not well and smoke horribly. This is what I suggest you do to be sure the cam gear is timed correctly to the injection pump gear. I took these pics of what the gears will look like if they are timed correctly. You will have to bring the engine to the damper top dead center mark. That's the short fat tube at the damper. Make sure is clean and you will see the zero mark thru the center of that tube. Now remove the small cover on the front of the injection pump gear housing. Look in and see if the drive lug is in the 4 o clock position when the damper is at top dead center.
Attachments
The dowel on the IP gear can be at 10 O clock and still be correct as the crank makes two revolutions for each one of the cam.
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icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
You are correct but... If you find the damper at tdc and the dowel is at 10 o'clock then the 2 valves wont be closed. Sadly only way to know if both valves are closed is to pull an injector or glow plug on number one cylinder..
After some more cranking and swapping some glow plugs around she studdered to life! It seems kinda hard to start every time it sits for more then 5 hours or so, so I think Im going to just put in a fresh round of glow plugs. Thanks everyone for the support, the help here on OB is unrivaled!
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
Try advancing the pump about 1/16 inch towards the passenger fender direction. You might be set for retarded timing. Make a mark before you move the pump so you can see how much the pump moved. If you do not like the feeling you can return it easy because you have a starting point for the timing. Really best to time the engine now after a rebuild. Right now all you have is a guess about the timing. Thats no way to run an engine.
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