Head studs ...?

[93blklightning]

What I was thinking was I'd be lucky to spool 13lbs where these idi don't push that much fuel anyway

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[79jasper]

Well a few people have done it.
Pretty sure they were making about 18-20. With a bigger pump though.


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[93blklightning]

I'll be running a stock N/A pump

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[typ4]

Without all the theory , a PS is 17 to 1 comp and an IDI is 20-21, so it will spin the turbo a little faster. Stud it then forget it. oh and keep it cool.

 

[93blklightning]

Without all the theory , a PS is 17 to 1 comp and an IDI is 20-21, so it will spin the turbo a little faster. Stud it then forget it. oh and keep it cool.

Ok .. as much as I don't want to say it, I guess that's the plan. Guess I'll go with R&D's , that seems to be the best deal I've found so far. Glad I've already got the headgaskets, and valley. I guess that'll be a good time to check the pre-cups.

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[typ4]

R&D's deal is so good thats where I buy mine. He has an engine machine shop that is really hooked up with ARP.

 

[93blklightning]

One more thing, its a little off topic, but.. I have seen a lot of threads on here related to removing the IP. I thought I knew how to, its been a few years, but after reading all the threads on here. I don't know... if I remember ... seems like I just disconnected the hard fuel lines, took the four timing cover out and lifted it off. Didn't have any issues as far as timing, because I didn't move anything as far as the rotating assembly goes. so I didn't bother with finding TDC. That's with doing the head gaskets anyway. what I was wondering was, does anyone have any other suggestions?

 

[riotwarrior]

One more thing, its a little off topic, but.. I have seen a lot of threads on here related to removing the IP. I thought I knew how to, its been a few years, but after reading all the threads on here. I don't know... if I remember ... seems like I just disconnected the hard fuel lines, took the four timing cover out and lifted it off. Didn't have any issues as far as timing, because I didn't move anything as far as the rotating assembly goes. so I didn't bother with finding TDC. That's with doing the head gaskets anyway. what I was wondering was, does anyone have any other suggestions?

READ this THREAD
http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?68655-Injection-pump-removal-with-timing-gear

 

[icanfixall]

Wow.. Have you removed the heads and the pump yet. If the heads are off and the pump came off with the gear and housing you need to do this. Bring number one cylinder to top dead center. Be cautious here because it can be top dead center or 180 degres out at top dead center exhaust open. Watch the lifters to tell that both intake and exhaust valves are closed. Crank the engine thru a few times to see the action on the intake valve going closed at the bottom of the compression stroke. then it comes up to top dead center and the marks will line up on the crank. Then continue to crank it and watch the exhaust valve open at or about bottom dead center. Continue cranking and it will be pushing out the exhaust till the top of the stroke where the exhaust closes and the intake opens. then the piston goes down sucking in the new air charge and closes at the bottom of the stroke. then it comes up to top dead center and combustion happens then. That position is known as number one top dead center and it will show that way on the damper and the timing tab. Clean off the road dirt from the tab to see the zero mark going thru the fat short probe location. Not the tall skinny probe location. If I got too involved in this explanation please ask for clarification before you bolt things together. when you randomly remove the gear you have no way of knowing where you are as for proper gear timing. If the ger moves one tooth the engine will run but not very well and it wont time properly.

 

[93blklightning]

I apologize for the delay in my response, I've been busy as hell at work , sometimes it follows me home , especially seeing how I'm the armorer for one of my associations. But no , I've not yet pulled the head or IP yet , ha , I ain't even got my studs yet. Right now I'm gathering info and parts. I already have the biggest pieces out of the way ....ie the engine, turbo ,etc. But yes , I was wondering the best way to remove the IP , sounds like just removing the pump, without the gear, and cover. Sounds good to me , as far as not having to retime her. Oh , and by the way , which cylinder is #1? Is it like most gasoline blocks , as where it's the first cylinder in the furthest forward bank?

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[79jasper]

Front passenger side is #1.
Intake manifold has cylinder #'s.


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[93blklightning]

Gotcha

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[icanfixall]

Depending on how clean you intake manifold is you have the numbers cast in the ports right near the 2 bolts to each cylinder. Just clean off some road dirt and its there. But number 1 is right behind the fuel filter on a truck engine. number 2 is opposite that on the drivers side of the engine. I like to use the passenger or drivers side because left and right means nothing depending on where you are standing. But drivers or passenger side never change.

 

[93blklightning]

Ok, finally getting around to studding this ol witch, got a quick question....

Has anyone used loctite copper gasket spray on an idi?
I've used it on several gassers, but never an idi.
The reason I ask is when I pulled the heads, there was a thick gasket goo all over the deck and heads, dunno if it's factory or not.

But man talk about being relived...I had a good feeling about this engine, and listened to it run for about an hour before pulling it. She only had 90,??? Miles on her, I kinda questioned it but when pulled the heads it verified it.

The valves are clean and crisp, precups look new.

Very very happy

 

[93blklightning]

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