Head studs ...?

[crash-harris]

Folks argue that it doesn't really help. I'm further north than you and would rather have it as well, even if it's only doing a little. I haven't gotten to try a cold weather start since my injector fiasco. I believe even riotwarrior (Canada) has deleted his.

I'm afraid I'm not much help, but I guess I'm one of the few up/on the forum right now

 

[93blklightning]

It's all good, I appreciate everyone's opinion, seriously.

I've always run my block heater, even on dad's '00 7.3 PSD, that would start without it even at 3° with no problem.

I've always felt it's main purpose is to prevent wear by keeping the oil at a thinner viscosity.

I remember when I was a kid, my grandfather had a brand new 1992 dodge 350 4x4 with a 12v turbo Cummins. It didn't need the block heater any what so ever to start, but we always plugged her up below 35° for the oil.

I just wish I could find a heater like it had, coolest thing I ever seen. Plug her up for a few hours, and the heater worked almost immediately after starting.
My Ford has never been like that


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[riotwarrior]

Folks argue that it doesn't really help. I'm further north than you and would rather have it as well, even if it's only doing a little. I haven't gotten to try a cold weather start since my injector fiasco. I believe even riotwarrior (Canada) has deleted his.

I'm afraid I'm not much help, but I guess I'm one of the few up/on the forum right now

Nope

Tested to -10 no block heat 2 gp cycles starts

W block heater much easier...spins way faster...1 gpvcycle n vroom

 

[93blklightning]

Nope

Tested to -10 no block heat 2 gp cycles starts

W block heater much easier...spins way faster...1 gpvcycle n vroom

+1

That would stand testament to plugging her up is easier on the starter

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[93blklightning]

Had anybody tried the RTV?

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[TahoeTom]

What brand block heater? The Katz from NAPA didn't want to go in without bending the element, so I returned it and bought a ZeroStart from O'Reillys. It looked like the OEM and went in without drama and hasn't leaked. Clean sealing surface with a scotchbrite and lube the O-ring with coolant.

 

[93blklightning]

I can't remember, the box is in the garage right now. I didn't have any issues with it fitting. It slid right in perfectly.
But after filling with coolant, it went from a steady drip, to a small stream

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[93blklightning]

I really liked it at first, it had a much longer cord. Around a foot or so longer to be exact.
O'reillys is going to replace it.
If the cord on the replacement isn't the same, I might see if they'll let me keep it, as long as it'll work with the new one


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[crash-harris]

Ah, I misunderstood. Didn't realize you were asking about block heater. I though the heater in the fuel filter head has an o-ring on it.

I haven't gotten the opportunity to use the block heater either. Not sure if I should connect it to any extension cord less than 10 guage. Don't have an extension cord long enough yet and I'm afraid of what it'll do to my electric bill if I used it on a timer regularly.

 

[93blklightning]

I don't see that much of a difference on my light bill at all. I remember I plugged mind up last year for around two weeks solid. I think there was like a $5 or $10 difference IIRC. Not bad for a little insurance in -12 weather we had last year IMO

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[93blklightning]

Ok, I know this is a stupid question, but I'm drawing a blank here. I tried to start her day before yesterday for the first time in two years, and after reassembling her. I had the air filter off and I couldn't help but notice the large amount of blow-by coming from the CDR valve in the intake tube.

Never could get her to fire, I think it's mostly due to a bad FSV and a weak fuel pump.

My question is, the excess blow-by. Could it be caused by her sitting for so long and then being disassembled, and the lifters not being pumped up?

Or is this normal?

I don't have the valve covers off, and there's no chuffing sound.



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[79jasper]

I would say wait til you get it started and warmed up, then make a judgement call.

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[93blklightning]

I was thinking the same, but you know how it is when you can't work on it. And you're thinking about the last time you did, trying to analyze the results, then start freaking out, but can't get back to it to verify it...... Yeah I'm half crazy

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[93blklightning]

Ok, good news and bad news. She fired and ran today for the first time in a year. Smooth as silk, sounded strong. While was checking for leaks, I seen a puddle of oil under the rear of the engine. When I looked closer, I was very disappointed to see it was milky. When I pulled the dipstick, sure enough grey and milky.
My question is, I wonder... Can I re torque the studs, or I'm betting I'll have to replace the head gaskets .

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[93blklightning]

Oh yeah, not to mention, the oil level was about an inch over when I checked

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