Head Gasket time!

[SD70Ace]

I called over to Rock Auto and ordered me the head gasket kit and valley pan kit. The gaskets are my by Felpro. I dont know much about Felpro. Are they worth it? As in able to hold up? But, am I forgetting any extra parts? I might have the heads done. No new head studs.Wheres the help guides on here. I might need to refer to them. The part where to make the injector pump to fire at the right time might be a problem. I'll probley be able to pull most of the work off excpt timing of the injector pump.

 

[Diesel JD]

Fel Pros are supposedly good. I have Victor Reinz gaskets and they have held up for a few years and I hope for a few more years outta them. The head gasket job is easy on an engine stand and not difficult but painful and time consuming in the truck. The thing you need to be careful of is to follow the correct reverse torque sequence and steps in removal and the correct torque and sequence and steps when reinstalling the heads. This is where most people screw up. Don't remove the IP gear cover and you won't jump timing on the gear. Make a mark where your timing is now between the pump flange and gear cover and you can always return it to exactly where it is now. Of course it makes sense to get the thing timed with tools if it hasn't already been done. They will run without damage a few degrees advanced or retarded but you leave some mileage or power not to mention emissions on the table. If you can afford studs do it, but if not the old bolts will be fine as long as they aren't damaged and you clean them up good and reoil them. They are NOT torque to yield bolts that stretch significantly and MUST be replaced like the ones on the 350 Olds diesel. The other tip is to get the heads and the block mating surfaces SPOLTLESSLY clean so that you could eat off them clean. Oh and if you chase the threads in the bolt holes put a T handle on your tap so you don't be a dummy like me and drop it in the coolant holes. You should use a bottoming tap... 7/16-14 I didn't but man I think it was a mix of divine intervention and the skill of the others around me that it ever stayed together.... I used some other kind of tap correct size but just not perfect like a bottoming one would be. I was such a mechanical newbie...but if you know how to take things apart and put them together and follow the advice here you'll be good. One more thing... be SURE about your torque wrench that it is calibrated right and you know how to read it. The bolts should be torqued to about 80-85 ft lbs in 4 steps in the sequence given in one of the manuals or probably available here followed by a 2 line sequences at the same torque. I doubt if 70 ft-lbs would hold them and I bet they would break at 95 or sooner. Yes the head set is complete except for the valley pan...which you already knew and will order separately. You should be good to go!

 

[RLDSL]

Fel pro is consumer grade stuff. If you decide to use those things , be exceedingly careful in handling them as they are extremely delicate with the soft coating that is on them and it damages very easily while installing leading to leaks. You;d be better off getting a set of Victor Reinz gaskets and shooting them down with a few coats of spray Hylomar for a leak free seal that will last

 

[Michael Fowler]

Diesel JD gave you all the high points.
But to reinforce,
1) DO NOT REMOVE the round cover over the IP grear. The pump comes off with the injection lines attached- but just barely.
2) DO NOT fully back off the head bolts. They MUST be loosened 1/4 turn or so at a time, using the reverse of the tightening pattern. It might take 4 times around to get them to be finger tight.
3) Cleanliness on reassembly is important.
4) Heads are HEAVY, if you have a bad back, or want to prevent having a bad back, use a lift/ crane to pull and replace the heads--or a really dumb friend will work in a pinch. Fill him with beer so he doesn't feel the pain until he is back home.
5) Remember to replace the clips on the injector lines. They are important--leaving them off WILL cause the injector lines to crack and break.

The IDI tech article link is at the top of the page.
Also use the SEARCH function to read many previous threads about head replacement.

If you need/ want to replace the oil cooler O rings at the same time, you might be better off pulling the engine and working on it out of the truck. That would allow you to look at the bottom end, and replace bearings while you are at it.

 

[dyoung14]

there aint a thing wrong with fel pro gaskets, my step dad uses them in all his hopped up sbc making over 400 hp, i wouldnt care one bit to use them in my truck if i ever have to replace the gaskets

 

[65sixbanger]

I used Fel-Pro and so far so good. But I also had the motor on a stand and was able to do it very meticulously.

 

[Agnem]

When I was on TDS I wrote a very helpfull and informative how to on this complete with pictures. They don't always allow you to link to their site, but the URL is http://www.thedieselstop.com/contents/getitems.php3?6.9L Gasket and Turbo Install

I'd be surprised if that worked. To get to it, go to thedieselstop.com and go to Content, then 6.9 tips and tricks. It is the first article listed.

The Warden also did a good write up on the same subject. Read and read and ask questions. THEN do.

 

[maddenji]

I made some lifting brackets and changed the heads on the truck. I used an engine hoist and the wife operate the lift.
We're still married.
Jim

 

[Michael Fowler]

Jim!!
Good to see you still lurking around here!
I am assuming that you are the same Jim from Michigan who attended the first IDI Rally in eastern PA, and, I think, hosted the next year in MI. Is that you?

 

[jonathan]

you should have the heads checked out its worth it