Surprised no one has jumped on this yet, Eric, but here's a quote from senior group member
icanfixall in another current thread:
"Whatever you do make sure the person that removes the pump from the engine does not remove the pump still connected to the gear and cover. No matter what you may have read on utube. Thats not the way to do the job. There is no way to truely see the gear timing marks when it goes back togehter. We have helped countless members fix this and its not an easy fix either so please talk before you do anything."
And the valley pan I just installed has a sub-valley(?) below the IP. Sure looked to me as if the valley pan just won't come out (or at least go back on intact) with the IP in place. Turns out that my injectors and IP needed replacement anyway, so no major big. Of course, removing the IP means that the timing will need to be reset.
This does requires a special timing instrument and magical wrenches to reach the IP nuts. As has been restated in some recent threads, timing "by ear" is not enough.
As for studs, I also went with them, even though I run my engine bone stock (for now...
). Prone to overkill, am I. (Bypass filter on E4OD already in place, coolant filter and bypass engine oil filter awaiting install)