HE351VE Remote Mount Turbo

[rhkcommander]

just using a wastegate to adjust the size eh?

You might not run into the problem but running it like that can bark em'... You can also rig something up for an engine brake effect

 

[wmoguy]

just using a wastegate to adjust the size eh?

You might not run into the problem but running it like that can bark em'... You can also rig something up for an engine brake effect

Yep she'll have a blow off valve if I find bark'ing to be an issue.

 

[Optikalillushun]

Just a suggestion im sure u already considered, since u have the erl tank n pumps in the tool box why not mount the air filter in there as well. Just drill some holes to allow for air or even add a duct, that way u know it wont suck in any debris/snow/rain. They did it on Trucks! to a Yota using a STS turbo and it seemed to perform very well.

Either way, very nice. I think a remote mount system looks cleaner under the hood and the additional pipe to run it to the intake will act like an intercooler of sorts. Now i wonder what a set of long tube headers will do with a remote mount turbo...?

Side note, what is ur estimated cost of this project?

 

[Drew2010]

Just a suggestion im sure u already considered, since u have the erl tank n pumps in the tool box why not mount the air filter in there as well. Just drill some holes to allow for air or even add a duct, that way u know it wont suck in any debris/snow/rain.

x2, I would not leave that filter down there... way to much exposure to road junk, I dont know about you, but wet gravels around me would have that thing caked over in about 10 miles...

 

[88 Ford]

Some sort of protective intake box would work too. It would also allow you to still use your toolbox a bit cus it wouldn't take up more room. Also will it be done this weekend? You just have to fab up the pipes to the turbo and the exhaust right? Anything else left?

 

[wmoguy]

Some sort of protective intake box would work too. It would also allow you to still use your toolbox a bit cus it wouldn't take up more room. Also will it be done this weekend? You just have to fab up the pipes to the turbo and the exhaust right? Anything else left?

no it wont' be done this weekend. The ATS turbo comes off the pickup Sat. Monday morning I fly to Vegas for a week. I had planned to drop it off at the exhaust shop on Monday and leave it all week to get the exhaust plumbed and compressed air pipe plumbed. He just chickened out of the job. He'll do the exhaust part but doesn't want to touch the compressed air side. So looks like I'll be finding time to fab that up myself.

 

[wmoguy]

Just a suggestion im sure u already considered, since u have the erl tank n pumps in the tool box why not mount the air filter in there as well. Just drill some holes to allow for air or even add a duct, that way u know it wont suck in any debris/snow/rain. They did it on Trucks! to a Yota using a STS turbo and it seemed to perform very well.

Either way, very nice. I think a remote mount system looks cleaner under the hood and the additional pipe to run it to the intake will act like an intercooler of sorts. Now i wonder what a set of long tube headers will do with a remote mount turbo...?

Side note, what is ur estimated cost of this project?

Yep I've been thinking about in the back of my head what I'll do there. I can't really effectively mount it in the bed because I have an L shaped Fuel Tank and tool box that take up alot of room. I'm thinking what is more likely is I'll eventually get some pipe bent up, and put the air filter so it's inside the frame and pressed up close to the bottom of the bed. I figure once i get it all together and in use, I'll have a better feel of what I'll need to do there.

Costs thus far:

Turbo: $400 on Fleabay
Wastegate, Adj Boost Controller, random stuff: $75
Bracket, Turbo Flange and Fab stuff for the turbo: $75'ish
2 Turbowerx Base Pumps: $400.00 (I got a little discount because I bought 4 of his pumps at once)
Fittings and Hoses for Oil: $185.00
Oil Pig: $20.00
N/A Y Pipe: $75.00
Air Filter & Sock, and Boot: $90.00

Guesstimated additional costs:

Finish Exhaust plumbing: $125.00?
Pipe, Boots, Parts to fab up Compressed air Line: $150.00
Murphys Law costs: $150.00?

I'm thinking all said and done I "should" be able to keep this under a $2k project.

 

[alienturtle]

What size lines did you use to feed the turbo. From the research i have been doing for my build be very careful not to use too big of a line to feed the turbo. Most turbo inlets have a restriction in them so you dont over oil them. If they are over oiled it gets pushed past the seals and you will burn it. For an HT3B which is a monstor like that i can look inside the inlet and it tapers down to about an 1/8. The lines used to feed it are only -4AN or about an 1/8 ID line. Just something to look at.

 

[wmoguy]

What size lines did you use to feed the turbo. From the research i have been doing for my build be very careful not to use too big of a line to feed the turbo. Most turbo inlets have a restriction in them so you dont over oil them. If they are over oiled it gets pushed past the seals and you will burn it. For an HT3B which is a monstor like that i can look inside the inlet and it tapers down to about an 1/8. The lines used to feed it are only -4AN or about an 1/8 ID line. Just something to look at.

Yep you are correct. I used 3/8" hose becuase I had a bunch of it. However, I have a restrictor at the oil inlet that peels it down to 1/8". I "think" I'll be ok with it setup this way

 

[wmoguy]

oh yea one thing I learned today is Holset is obnoxious. They use both NPT threads on this turbo as well as some really obsecure metric crap. The coolant ports on this thing are 16 x 1.5, the oil feed port is 1/8" boss fitting, the 2 bolts for the oil return line are 3/8" - 24

Had some fun trying to figure this all out with the turbo still on the pickup and source the parts.

 

[88 Ford]

That's sucks about him backing out on do the cold side pipes. Why did he back out on that? There really isn't that much difference I would think...

 

[wmoguy]

That's sucks about him backing out on do the cold side pipes. Why did he back out on that? There really isn't that much difference I would think...

No tig welder, and I'm guessing he didn't want to have anything to do with piping that fed an engine. He also doesn't have a mandrel bender so we'd be using prebent sections, creating alot of welds.

He's a good guy that goes to our old church and I know him pretty well. If he's not comfortable with the job I understand. He did give me a name of a hot rod shop that has a mandrel bender and does tig work. Problem is they are in South Denver, which is 2 hours for me. My trailer isn't stout enough to trailer this pickup down there to get the work done.
This just all came down this morning so I gotta regroup and figure out WHEN I'm going to be able to do this. I may just stick to the plan, get the turbo off Sat. drop it off to him and have him do the exhaust piping. I might drive it around for a few days with no boost and instead a leaf blower on the side of the pickup.

 

[alienturtle]

Yep you are correct. I used 3/8" hose becuase I had a bunch of it. However, I have a restrictor at the oil inlet that peels it down to 1/8". I "think" I'll be ok with it setup this way

Good deal!

 

[wmoguy]

Question

Since I've got the adjustable bypass regulator on this thing, I can pretty much set the oil pressure wherever I want. I did some reading about the 6.7's and they seem to make about 50psi cold, and 25-30psi @ Idle (hot) I was thinking of just setting the oil pressure at 40psi all the time and calling it good. This regulator will take a pressure (or vacum) reading so I "could" set it up for 40psi w/ no boost and then give it a boost reading. It regulates @ 1:1 so if I had 40psi = no boost, Id' have about 55psi of oil pressure to it w/ 15psi of boost. It seems like a lot of hoses, etc.. to do this. Do you think 40psi (or some other constant pressure) will be good for the turbo?

 

[alienturtle]

just for ***** and giggles and to stir up the pot. My 12v ran like 80-100 when cold and like 40-60 when warm. I would think 40 would be perfect. I think feeding a turbo is more of just making sure you have oil to it. Cummins spec for oil pressure is min 10psi. So if the turbo can last with as little as 10psi i think you are good to go

On edit: This is striaght from the HX35 HX40 Holset manual. Might try to find a manual for the HE But here

11. Oil return pipes are permitted to decline at an overall angle of not less than 30 degrees below horizontal.
All turbocharger applications require a pipe of internal diameter greater than 19 mm which has integrated
connectors. To ensure oil drains into the engine under all operating conditions, the return connection
into the engine sump must not be submerged and the outlet flange of the turbocharger must be 50 mm
above the maximum oil level of the engine sump pan.

13. Oil pressure of 150 kPa (20 lbf/in2) must show at the turbocharger oil inlet within 3 - 4 seconds of engine
firing to prevent damage to turbocharger bearing system. A flexible supply pipe is recommended.

14. The minimum oil pressure when the engine is on load must be 210 kPa (30 lbf/in2). Maximum
permissible operating pressure is 500 kPa (72 lbf/in2) although 600 kPa (88 lbf/in2) is permitted during
cold start up. Under idling conditions pressure should not fall below 70 kPa (10 lbf/in2).

15. Recommended oil flows for the turbochargers are 2 litre/min at idle and 3 litre/min above maximum
torque speed.

Note:
100 kPa = 1 bar (14.5037 lbf/in2 =psi).