Half the VSS came out of the tranny

[Desertrig]

On my new dump, the plastic head came off the VSS and the needle came out, but the metal body with bearing is still apparently fused to the trans. Anyone have any ideas? If the bearing wasn't there I'd try to get it turning with a bolt, but I'm too scared of knocking the bearing out and into the trans to even attempt. The smallest pilot bearing puller ever? While I'm posting, do other triple disc convertor e4od owners have a stumble down to 600 rpms after giving it the fuel in park as it returns to 675 rpm idle, could it be related to the fitting at number 7 injector to ip fuel line seeping a tiny bit (pass rear is 7 right)?

Backstory: I got the truck with a dead tranny. Had a shop do it. Started acting crazy after 275 miles threw code 65 so I yanked it and shipped it back to the shop. It came back with a new pan seal, dry, reported doing the solenoid pack and pump even though they found nothing wrong with the trans. Reinstalled and then did lift pump, nozzles, filter return check-valve, cleaned terminals/grounds, found a rubbed through wire on the alternator which seems to have fixed the tach flutter. The harness connector going to the rear of the motor (passenger) had a couple bullet connectors popping out and a rat chewed wire toward the start solenoid end, all trans pig tails were replaced at the shop, I also cleaned the trans harness to main harness connectors (major ***** - thanks to the OB member that mentions those in e4od threads), cleaned the brain connector at drivers lower, outer firewall. Took the truck out for a test drive, had late hard shifts, OD light came on, and reported code 29, so I didn't self test, just went to trying to track one down and pulling the old one. Ended up ordering one through NAPA for tomorrow.

I'm going to need a speedo core cable (the cut to length jobby at autozone lasted 20 miles, and I butchered mine trying to make it fit) ,and either repair or replace the rear tank which is NLA if anyone has experience with these issues. The rest of the problems seem minor until the tranny works though.

Thanks for taking the time to read.

 

[Desertrig]

Uh oh, called the tranny shop they said remove the valve body? The VSS is right near the end of the trans - is that even the right area? It seems like the metal body is aluminum, I'll have to check late tonight or tomorrow. Anybody else crazy enough to consider welding on the trans?

 

[HammerDown]

I thought the VSS was bolted to the drivers side of the IP?

 

[justinray]

I thought the VSS was bolted to the drivers side of the IP?

Thats the tach

 

[HammerDown]

Thats the tach

Not what I'm referring to...this is a vacuum controlled dial, that adjusts how hard the trans shifts.

 

[justinray]

Not what I'm referring to...this is a vacuum controlled dial, that adjusts how hard the trans shifts.

Oh, well vss is vehicle speed sensor.

 

[oregon96psd]

fipl is on the ip, i thought that the vss was in the rearend on the electric speedometers and cable driven on the mechanical ones. What exactly came out of your transmission?

 

[oregon96psd]

Looked it up, didn't know they did that on some. Is this what came out?

http://cobratransmission.com/index.php?main_page=popup_image&pID=107051

 

[Desertrig]

Yeah everything but the blue part came out, well I ripped a little bit of the blue part off, the grooved parts top and bottom, above the keeper came off while I was yanking on it. It really seems like it's galled. It's really annoying that the parking brake is in the way. The vacuum controller is only on the c6 from all the reading I've done on here.

 

[Desertrig]

So in looking at the picture the bearing isn't going into the trans if I try to split it, but a self tapper or bolt looks questionable. Probably safe to try and notch it to try and spin it with a flathead, though. My 3/16 screw driver seemed to wedge in behind the bearing so maybe I could weld that shaft to a slide hammer type setup and keep the welding away from the vehicle, and I bet I'd get a tiny bearing for all that futzing.... Probably sacrifice the one I get tomorrow, so I can try to prototype a tool, I'd rather spend money and days than yank that trans a third time in the dirt. If I had a shop and a lift, the thing would already be on the jack....

 

[oregon96psd]

Is there a gear that's supposed to come out with it? If the shaft came out it seems like the gear may now be laying in there somewhere. Can you get to that part of the transmission if you pull the park brake off? If you have a cavity big enough you might also be able to run a tap into it and hook a slide hammer to that.

 

[Desertrig]

So the needle backs out through the plastic side once the plastic pulls out. I'm guessing an aluminum housing lets a magnetic needle spin by iron or vice versa on some wires to produce the signal for the TCM, otherwise it looks to function as a pass through/extension for the speedo cable. I think your right about the tap, have to build a 12-16" slide hammer... Removing the parking brake would allow me to get a pair of channel locks on it after shimming it with a pipe or something.... The plastic removes from a sheet metal thickness "pipe" which starts stepping down to a maybe 1/4" hole once it's flush with the transmission, it's a nice piece of machining...

 

[Black dawg]

I thought the VSS was bolted to the drivers side of the IP?

vrv

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Is there a gear that's supposed to come out with it? If the shaft came out it seems like the gear may now be laying in there somewhere.

Negative, the gear is (or at least should be) still attached to the VSS. Take a look at that pic, see the smooth snout the square drive sticks out of? That snout is what the gear pilots on, the square drive is just a drive for the cable, it inserts into a square hole in the nose of the gear but does nothing to actually retain it to the VSS. What retains the gear is an odd-looking jesus clip, it slides into a slot in the side of the gear and locks into a groove machined in the VSS snout (groove can be seen in that pic as well, it's partially covered by the last digit of their phone number). The only way to remove a gear is to remove the VSS out of the trans, pop the jesus clip off sideways, then slide the gear off the snout.

As for removing the VSS remains - I'd pull everything out of the VSS housing for tools clearance, heat the trans housing around the VSS and spray it w/ PB blaster or something (do a few cycles of that, last one being a heat application again), grab the lip of the VSS w/ a pair of vice grips, and pull and wiggle on those while at the same time trying to pry between the transmission case and the VSS retaining clip w/ a flat screw driver. If truck in question is a 4x4 make sure you know the material of rear half of transfer case, some are reportedly magnesium and you really wanna avoid putting an open flame to that, so the heat cycles may not be an option there.

Regarding the other questions - electrical device on driver side of IP is TPS (e4od), a vacuum device in same place is a VRV (c6), the tach sensor is way up front on the gear housing, the transmission valve body has absolutely nothing to do w/ VSS whatsoever, VSS body material is indeed machined aluminum (and thus potentially TIG-weldable), and yes I have done welding on the transmission in an attempt to remove the bolt for the VSS retaining clip after head of said bolt sheared off (bolt was stuck so bad the weld kept breaking, finally I just welded the clip right to its stub and called it a day).

 

[trackspeeder]

You can always pull the extension housing off of the tranny.

Tranny cases and extension housings are aluminum, don't worry about heating them up with a fire wrench.