Got these suckers out!!

Fishin76

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I've been working on getting my passenger side exhaust manifold off for a few weekends, and finally have all the bolts out, and i DIDN'T BREAK A ONE!!

Started 2 weekends ago, I jacked up the truck, took the tire off and started cutting out parts of the lower inner fender. I used a angle grinder with thin cutoff wheel to cut the plastic and expose the manifold bolts. I had to be very careful not to cut the fuel lines or the get into the shock tower or wire harness that runs from the cab to the upper inner fender.

The first weekend, I managed to get two bolts out with just a ratchet and socket.

Now the fun starts.

The second weekend, I had a neighbor that works in road construction come over. He always has an acetylene torch in the back of his truck, so I asked him if he would cut off the rest of the bolt heads and the collector bolts. He did and pulled the manifold off. It fell off in 4 pieces. I'll get some pics of the old manifold later and post them here too. He did a great job, burned nothing but the bolt heads, a real pro at using a cutting torch!

So now this weekend, I'm down to 6 headless bolts still frozen in the block. I know how to weld, and have my trusty harbor freight $99 special gasless MIG. So I get all dressed up, weld jacket, gloves, and auto darkening helmet and get settled on my knees in the wheel well of the truck. My son , Nick, is hepling me by turning off and on the welder as I need, and handing me tools and a hand to get back up after my knees and ankles fall asleep kneeling on cold concrete in our driveway. We start welding nuts that I picked up a my Local fastenal store. (the only place around me that had 3/8 -16 x 1 3/4 bolts to replace in the manifold also.) Welded the first one, Put a wrench on it, and backed right out!. Right now I'm thinking 'wow, this could be easy'. To be honest, not all that bad, Three I got welded solid enough to break the bolt free, and three it took multiple times. But I did figure out a secret to welding nuts on bolts. ( more on this later). That was Saturday. (yesterday).

I get up this morning, Knees aching from being on the aforementioned cold concrete, and decide I gonna get in there and get these stubborn ones out.

Getting all dressed to weld, I came up with an idea to help get a better weld on the nults and studs. I got out my angle grinder and got it to the stud and ground a flat on the side of the stud I could get to easily. The last try yesterday to weld this, after breaking the weld (for the thrid time), I left the nut on the stud. I pulled and turned the nut until it was half deep onto the flat spot I ground on the bolt stud. The I welded it on a pretty hot setting on the welder hitting that flat and the threads of the nut so that there was a wedge of metal in the nut. I then promptly shot it with home brew penetrator, hoping to break the rust that was locking the bolt in the head.

Do it this way, I got the last three studs out in an hour and a half.

Here's pics, the ones I had to weld. One stud fell out after I got it out of the head, so you just see the nut.

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Here's another, backwards, Notice NO Broken ones! I know there's only six. I think a couple got thrown under the truck. ( the stubborn ones). Also, one failed attempt, You can see that sticking the nut on the end of the stud without a flat yields low penetration on the stud by the gasless mig.

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I used 7/16 nuts so I could get over the shoulder on the studs. I ran out of those, so next up was 1/2 diamter. Pic of good manifold bolt and the nut I used on three of the studs.

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And I got all of these all out with the engine in the truck! I don't have the tools to pull an engine, so wasn't even an option.

Maybe something I wrote here will help someone else.
 

Brimmstone

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I personally prefer a stick welder to do that type of stuff but I have used a mig to do it also. You want to get some real fun have some fool break all the manifold bolts off flush in an old T-bird with a 390. That was NOT a fun day at work.
 

Fishin76

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Thats exactly what I HAD to avoid. If I even broke one, I was SCREWED. No money to go have it fixed or to buy the tools.
 

sassyrel

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You want to get some real fun have some fool break all the manifold bolts off flush in an old T-bird with a 390. That was NOT a fun day at work.[/QUOTE]

aint THAT a fact!!!! as a Ford person--done more than one---and have only broke very few out of the MANY ive done..........experience!!!!!
 

Brimmstone

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The idiot I worked with went and took a wrench to all of them not using any penetrating fluid prior to attempting to remove them. Every single one broke of flush in the head. It took me 47 nuts till I got all of them out. The bottom bolts weren't bad but the top ones sucked trying to get the angle and hold the nut in the right position to get the weld solid. I got them all though. Took me eight hours but the customer was happier paying the eight hours than paying to have the heads removed and sent to the machine shop.
 

icanfixall

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Now you need to buy the proper bolts from Ford or International. Any other bolt will not be corerect. Sure... Any 3/8 16 bolt will fit but... The correct bolts have a special interferance thread cut on them so they don't loosen up.
 

Fishin76

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ah, That would be why they came out so hard then?

Hmmm, I'l have to think about that. I guess it depends on how much they are.. If they are 2.50 a bolt, I'll use my 15 cent grade 8 yellow zinc coated ones from fastenal, use $.02 heavy lock washers, and just snug them a couple times a year.
 

Diesel JD

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I have a few regular 3/8-16 bolts in there I haven't noticed any of them coming loose but I couldn't swear they are all there and tight. Some of the spots on the passener side especially are just nowhere close to being easily reachable with the engine in the truck.
 

Fishin76

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I have a few regular 3/8-16 bolts in there I haven't noticed any of them coming loose but I couldn't swear they are all there and tight. Some of the spots on the passener side especially are just nowhere close to being easily reachable with the engine in the truck.

You can get to them all, and easily just have to remove parts of the rubber/plastic inner fender to expose them. There's enough room to get a socket wrench on them, and to weld nuts on to any that break. The only ones that are harder are the 2 that are behind the shock tower.
 
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