Got the truck home, big problems already

[hesutton]

Red... no need to use a regulator with the Red pump. Mine usually runs around 5psi, it maxes out at 7 and will do 97gph.

Heath

 

[tractorman86]

so you dont need 110gph, i couldnt remember thanks! looking into doing it soon. i have a little bit of a power surge and hope to solve it with that.

 

[fx4wannabe]

Is there a tech article on the install on here?

My leak could very well be fuel but I have never seen fuel this black.

Are the chevy block off plates the only ones that will work?

 

[fx4wannabe]

What is the part number for the red pump? Is it 2801?

Next question. I haven't really dug into it full bore yet but I did notice some fuel under the IP. I have no idea how old the fuel system is on the truck but by looking at it its been on there a while. If I do change the pump what is the easiest way to get it timed good enough to get it somewhere that can time it? We only have one diesel shop that I know of and its quite a ways from the house. I have never changed a pump before so just don't want to screw anything up.

 

[cleithau]

"Those BBL chevy block off plates are hard to come by. " I found them everywhere I looked. Our small town (pop 2277) auto store had one in stock. I damaged the first one because I didn't notice the small raised rigde in the block. Can barely see where you're putting it. Its mostly by feel. The second one I used the old pump as a template and just marked what I needed to file off. I don't know if any other block off plate would work but they are pretty easy to come by. I mean NAPA, CarQuest, AutoZone, PartsPlus, and of them should have it or could get it the next day. Its the Cheyy Big Block style. I can't imagine any reason yo can't get it locally and probably the same day you go to buy it you can always order one from Summit.

If the 94's are pretty much the same as my 85 6.9 NA its a real easy job. This is how I did mine.....take a look at yours to make sure is the same but it should be. Remove the vacuum pump from the front of the engine. Then you will have access to the fuel pump. Disconnect the line from the fuel pump to the filter. This would be a good time to replace the olive O-ring on the fitting on the filter head inlet (Ford part #E3TZ-9C387-A) cut the steel tube with a good tubing cutter and clean it up. Clean up the block surface good but be careful not to get any sovent into the openning, it would mix with the oil. Or change your oil once your done. I covered both sides of the paper gasket with RTV sealant, bolt the block of plate on. I put my pump inside the frame rails as soon after the fuel tank switching valve as I could. I used a Facet Posi Flow from NAPA (only 35-40 dollars). That's up to you and you budget to decide the right pump. Then you just have decide how to plumb and wire it.

My wiring and plumbing will deffinately be different since mine had the old water/fuel seperator originally/ Maybe someone with a new truck knows the best wire to tap into so you don't overload any circuit.

 

[hesutton]

What is the part number for the red pump? Is it 2801?

Next question. I haven't really dug into it full bore yet but I did notice some fuel under the IP. I have no idea how old the fuel system is on the truck but by looking at it its been on there a while. If I do change the pump what is the easiest way to get it timed good enough to get it somewhere that can time it? We only have one diesel shop that I know of and its quite a ways from the house. I have never changed a pump before so just don't want to screw anything up.

HERE is the Holley Red from Summit, their part number is HLY-12-801-1.

I would also recommend THIS oil pressure safety switch: part number HLY-12-810.

As far as timing the pump. Just line up the timing mark on your IP gear cover with the mark on the IP and you will be close enough to run the motor.

Heath

 

[fx4wannabe]

Cool guys. I am hoping to get into it this weekend so I can see what all parts I need.

 

[fx4wannabe]

I found a used red pump off a gas motor for $20. It was on a race car only used one season. Would this be ok or is it bad that it was on gasser first?

 

[lotzagoodstuff]

I'd use it for $20. The intermittent use on a racecar should have only rung up a minimal amount of hours. My rule on Holley pumps (I have a Holley Blue in my Pinto) is if they don't leak they are good.

 

[Diesel JD]

Same pump for sure. I'd use it. Just make sure there's no gasoline still in it. The drip from behind your injection pump however suggests that it may be leaking out the weep hole and perhaps into your oil as well. It could also be an external leak on the supply or return side. Good luck,
JD

 

[fx4wannabe]

Well I got the intake off it and here is what I have found so far. The intake has oil in it. The K&N filter is lightly black so it has oil on it. The rubber hose going from the intake to the valve cover has oil in it. The turbo has oil in it. I am blowing oil out the tail pipe. The whole back side of the motor is cover in fuel and oil and the pan in the back is full of fuel and oil about an inch deep. I am guessing that my turbo is leaking. Haven't gotten too far into it cause I wanted to do some research before I just started tearing stuff out. So what do ya'll think now? I think the oil and fuel leak are seperate problems but not sure. the oil in the intake and exhaust concerns me a bit.

 

[77f250diesel]

The oil problem could very well be a bad/plugged cdr valve.

 

[6 Nebraska IDIs]

that oil soaked filter and turbo and everything is identical to what my moms truck is doing. We put a RDT on it and it just billows out of that thing. I guess we never thought about it being a stuck CDR valve. We just figured its worn out and needs a rebuild.

 

[fx4wannabe]

What and where is the CDR valve? Not familiar with that one.

 

[6 Nebraska IDIs]

its the tuna can thing on the valve cover of your truck.