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Got the banks kit on.

Discussion in '6.9L IH & 7.3L IDI Diesels' started by Diesel8873ne, May 24, 2019.

  1. Diesel8873ne

    Diesel8873ne Registered User

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    Just an update on the used banks kit i got and how it went. Took about 10 man hours for me to get the whole kit on, i had to order a few things for the kit like new gasket kit, a ram air housing and filter and a few odds and ends.

    Everything went together relativley smooth with alot of cursing and persuasion with a pry bar. No issues after installing except one leaking injector cap wich i sealed by pushing down on the cap lightly and twisting a bit. Bone dry now.

    A day after getting eveything installed i thought i had a issue but i ran it out of fuel on the rear tank didint know it and thought maybe the lift pump was bad. On the side of a state highway laying on the ground getting soaked in fuel for no reason. Oh yea and also the started solenoid on the fender took a shit at the same time. Replaced that.

    Bending the firewall and bolting the turbo down were probably the hardest parts i think.

    Right now im sitting outside the exhaust shop having that all taken care of. Kinda tired of just downpipe.

    Also side note i turned the pump up "about 1/4 of a turn" dont know how many flats. But doesnt seem smokey unless wide open,pyro is fine too so far. Only question though my high idle is higher than before the turbo, it was around 1k now when it high idles ita around 13-1400, amh insight?

    Sorry for the long post just a bit scatter brained at the moment.
     
  2. icanfixall

    icanfixall Official GMM hand model

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    The plunger on the high idle solenoid can be adjusted.It requires a 1/4 inch socket because its faster using that tool. Also you may be able to adjust the bracket for this too. Many times the bracket is removed for working room. Then you reinstall it and presto.Fast idle is too high. So loosen the two bolts and move the bracket towards the radiator.Its surprising how much movement there is. The wrench for the bracket hex head is 7/16 or 1/2 inch. Been a long time...
     
  3. Thewespaul

    Thewespaul Supporting Vendor Supporting Member

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    7/16” as long as no ones changed it, I’ve seen Phillips heads there even.
     
  4. Diesel8873ne

    Diesel8873ne Registered User

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    Okay thank you both for the quick response .Ill post back after adjusting.

    Also the oil pressure on the "dummy gauge" is lower than im used too but i figured maybe thats normal because the kit relocates it to the top of the turbo. But i figured it was worth asking.

    Edit: i have spoke too soon and the fuel leak on the rear most passenger side injector lines or cap. It seems to me it's the o ring but im not sure of course its the hardest one to see. I purchased a kit from napa auto parts for 44 bucks and bought a fuel filter while i was there. One that deletes the two piece filter.
     
    Last edited: May 24, 2019
  5. Macrobb

    Macrobb Full Access Member

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    Make sure to lube the return line O-rings with high temp wheel bearing grease, NOT Vasoline. Works wonders for keeping them from leaking over time.
     
  6. ISPKI

    ISPKI Welding/metallurgical engineer/Metalsmith

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    Huh, I lubed mine with Vasoline when I replace my O-Rings a year and a half ago and my #8 injector cap just started leaking. Will have to try using fresh bearing grease.
     
  7. Diesel8873ne

    Diesel8873ne Registered User

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    Finally getting some time for a update. My high idle is back to normal thanks to the advice i got here, i tried to seal just the one injector cap that was leaking, that was a mistake.

    After sealing that one the one infront of it started pissing. Ended up having to redo them so i did all the lines and caps like i should have in the first place.

    So onto my new issue when the fuel was leaking it was hard to tell but i had a feeling that i also had a oil leak coming down the bell housing area.

    Well sure thing i was right no.more fuel but it now leaves about a quarter sized oil stain after shutting down when i get back from work. The truck didn't leak a drop until i put the turbo on. So my first instinct is its the oil backing up around the grommet for the oil drain, or the npt plug where the old oil sensor went. When it leaks it comes down both sides of the engine passenger side near the back of the starter,and driver side near the slave cylinder. Collecting together on the bottom of the inspection cover.

    Im hoping for some direction from someone with more wisdom than me on the subject. I need to get this leak buttoned up i cannot stain the driveway where i rent.

    Lastly my "engine" light intermittently comes on and stays on at startup, if i shut the truck off and turn right back on it goes out and stays out any thoughts. This is also new since the turbo.

    Sorry for the novel, thanks for the help so fsr everyone
     
  8. IDIBRONCO

    IDIBRONCO IDIBRONCO

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    Since you have oil dripping off of both side of the engine, I'd look at the plug you put in place of the factory oil sender. When oil (or anything else) leaks down the valley pan, the drain is designed to run it all out the passenger's side above the starter. Of course, there could be some dirt/grease build up on the back of the block causing the oil to build up enough to actually leak down both sides. You can visually check for the oil leaks with an inspection mirror and a work light that is small enough to be moved into place to see your suspected leaks.
     
  9. Diesel8873ne

    Diesel8873ne Registered User

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    Alright i didnt know about the way the valley pan drains. There is alot of build-up in the very back of the valley pan from what i remember it was hard caked on fluid and grime.

    Im gonna pull the turbo, maybe this weekend. Wether it is the npt plug or the grommet overflowing i can't do much with the tubro in. I can hardly see the plug in a mirror and because of the buildup it's hard to tell if its leaking.

    I spoke with a banks rep for troubleshooting he said that there is foam similar to what you see in some old air filters on chevy gassers and such. He claimed he has seen it get bunched up and cause the oil to back up and come out the grommet

    Regardless i think ill replace the plug. Put more wholes in the sheet metal and try to get the foam out if i can find anything like that.

    Then reseal and and reinstall it. Easier said than done. Wish me luck and any input is still much appreciated
     
  10. IDIBRONCO

    IDIBRONCO IDIBRONCO

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    While you're at it, make sure that you clean all of that junk off of the valley pan and out of the "valley" between the back ob the block and the adapter plate. That's where your NPT plug is at. Behind the place that your turbo oil returns is an odd bolt. It's round on the outer edge with a square 3/8" hole in the middle. This is where the valley pan drains. Make sure that passageway is clean too. Use compressed air, carb cleaner, brake cleaner, or something similar to open it up.
     

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