Glow plug tip broke

[Mr_B]

So I started to pull out the old plugs and most were ok, but of course one came out with out a tip I suppose that means I need to pull the head? I haven't started it yet and don't intend too. Any suggestions? i.e. what kind of head gaskets and while I'm at it what else might be worth while since I'll have the top half of the motor apart? A turbo would be nice and this would be the perfect excuse to put one on!! By the way, the old plugs don't say beru just some numbers stamped in the side.

Oh, and since I'll have the heads off, is there any good way of telling if they could use a freshining up?

 

[RLDSL]

you cal visually look at the seats and see if they've been wearing in an oval, , if so the guides are really toast, if not, if you have access to a valve spring compresor and a dial indicator and a magnet base it wouldn't hurt to measure the actual guide play to see if they're within spec, Should be less than 0.005" one side ( or measure side to side and divide in half to get measurement ) If you catch it when they aren't too bad they can too a false guide insert that doesn't cost very much, if you wait till it's all wallowed out, the price goes up about 6 times as much each If you haven't got the goodies, machine shop probably won't hit you too bad to inspect them and throw new seals on. Be a good idea to get them cleaned up anyway

I know a lot of folks like the fel pro head gaskets, personally, I'm not in love with them.
I've got my engine on the stand right now and it's about to get a set of Victor Reinz head gaskets and it's getting the treatment we do on the european diesels ( these days it's factory sealer on the head gaskets on most of them ) on most of them ), those puppies are getting sprayed down with hylomar racing formula sealant before going on. With all the folks who have problems with coolant leaks at the back of the head gaskets on these things, I don't plan on having that problem

 

[Diesel JD]

Did it just pop out without a tip or did it have a lot of resistance when coming out? If it was hard to pull then the tip probably broke off while you were working on it, if it just came out easily with no tip its probably long gone anyway. If the tips in there you need to either pull the head or bring the piston to TDC and pull the injector and try to suck the tip out. You might try reading Zigg's article on GP removal. Good luck,JD

 

[Mr_B]

So I have done quite a bit of research about removing the heads and how its a wise thing to get studs when you put back together and when you take the heads off you want to only go in 1/4 turn increments in SEQUENCE but time and time again I see that sequence thing mentioned for the bolts but no where do I see WHAT that sequence is. Any help would be appreciated. I really don't want to buy an $80 manual just to get the torque sequence.

 

[Mr_Roboto]

Same as any gasket, work from the middle to the outsides.

 

[zigg]

You need to figure out if the tip broke off when you pulled it, or if it was already long gone. If the end where the tip is missing is all sooty and black, then likely the tip came off long ago, and is already passed through the engine, and you have nothing to worry about. If the end looks fresh(all clean and white inside, then you probably have lost the tip inside.

you can bar the engine over by hand, and if you feel any resistance, then stop, and you've probably got your answer..you'll need to pull the head(s) to get it out.

zigg

 

[suv7734]

Here is the head sequence. As you can see the first two times are in a 'rotation' and the 3rd and 4th are in a line sequence. There is a debate as to which is better to 'un-torque' them. Personally I use the line sequence for removal since that is what was used for the final torque and have not had any problems but...
Hope this helps

 

[icanfixall]

International has two differant torque sequences. Thr first sequence is out from the middle. The last sequence is the line sequence. You start at the top bolt and follow that line accross the head. Then you drop down to the second row of bolts and go back the other direction. Then finally the last row is the exhaust port area. That starts where you left off on the second row. In other words you use a "Z" pattern from top left to bottom row right..... Now I'm not going to tell you to use either sequence because members here have differant ideas on which to use. My Navistar manual states the torque goes this way. First torque is 65 lbs from the center. Then the second is 85 following the same sequence... Then the next 2 torques are both at 100 lbs and using the line sequence. This is called using the numbered sqeuence and the line sequence. Before you try to install the rocker arms the motor needs to be rotated till the timing marks on the balancer is at the 11 O' clock position. This places all the pistons below the deck so none of the valves can touch the pistons. To find this 11 O'clock position look at the heads on the motor and locate the freeze plugs in the ends. Now imagine a line from the crank to both of them and a line straight up to the top of the block where the injection pump cover should be. The 11 O'clock position is between these lines as you rotate the crank in the normal direction of motor rotation. The rocker arm torque is 20 lbs.

 

[Mr_B]

Thank you guys so much!!! That relieved me of a lot of stress. Yes, I have to pull the head on at least one side so while I'm at it I figured I would do the other as well. Once I pull the injection pump and eventually put it back on, am I going to need to have re-timed? I have no intention of rotating the motor or the pump, just simply pull it off, do my business and put it back in.

 

[fsr7]

When you pull the IP, don't pull the timing gear cover off - the timing gear won't lose its position this way, so you won't have to re-time the gear. Make a mark where the alignment mark on top of the pump is compared to the mark on the gear cover, and reinstall the pump in the same place. You'll be real close to your original timing.

 

[Agnem]

Another way to tell if that glow plug tip is in there, is to look at the glow plug. If the break is clean, then yea you just lost it in there. If it is all carboned over, then just bar the engine over and if it feels OK, keep running it.