Glow plug relay issues

[88diesel]

Hi all, I've been having some issues with my truck for about a month now, when turning the key to start and waiting for the wait to start light to go off usually after wards you'd hear the clicking of the relay and then once that ended you'd simply start it.(Duh) Anyways once winter ended I'd have to cycle the key multiple times to even get the relay to click, the wait to start light would go off but no clicking and then one click about 30 seconds after the light went off. So multiple cycles later it'd start clicking and I could finally start it. I parked it for awhile since I haven't had time to deal with it, but today I needed the truck so I cycled twice and noticed smoking rolling from the cowl/back of the hood area. Took the air cleaner off and it was the relay. The plastic cover was even starting to melt.

Any ideas? I'd figure I'd just ask here before I jump to any conclusions. Thanks for any input! (I know I sounded stupid but I'm running on maybe 2 hours of sleep in the last 48 hrs+)

 

[88diesel]

Anyone?

 

['94IDITurbo7.3]

What is the condition of the glow plugs?
To check them get a 12V test light, hook the light leed up to the positive post on either battery. Take the elec connector off the top of the glow plugs. Touch the light to the top of teh plugs. If the light lights the plug is good. If no light then plug is bad.

My friends dad who worked for ford on these trucks said that winter his really ******* glow plugs.

If you need plugs which it sounds like you do then get Motorcraft/Beru. Can get them from rockauto.com for ~ 10$/glow plug. Don't get autolights i tried them and luckily they burned out before they broke. they lasted 1 month in winter.

 

[rhkcommander]

I've seen smoke before, relay might be going out fast, maybe corrosion or wires cooking.

Clicking alot suggests bad glow plug(s). Easy to test with 12v continuity light or voltmeter.

Some like the 7.3 gp controller. I prefer a pushbutton

 

[OLDBULL8]

Each glow plug pulls ~20 amps when first turned on, thats 8 X 20 amps thru the glow plug controller relay (160 amps) until the WTS lite goes off, then the relay will start to (click) that is the ON/OFF cycling to keep the GP's hot for up to 2 minutes. There is no need to wait for the clicking to stop cycling before starting, it's best to start the engine after the WTS goes OFF. Repeated cycling of the GP controller like you are doing will get the relay HOT and ruin it just like you say it's smoking and melting the case. Those relays are not made to take that kind of abuse. The contacts inside the relay get hot and the results is what you are getting. Better to change that relay before the contacts weld in the ON position.

 

[88diesel]

Each glow plug pulls ~20 amps when first turned on, thats 8 X 20 amps thru the glow plug controller relay (160 amps) until the WTS lite goes off, then the relay will start to (click) that is the ON/OFF cycling to keep the GP's hot for up to 2 minutes. There is no need to wait for the clicking to stop cycling before starting, it's best to start the engine after the WTS goes OFF. Repeated cycling of the GP controller like you are doing will get the relay HOT and ruin it just like you say it's smoking and melting the case. Those relays are not made to take that kind of abuse. The contacts inside the relay get hot and the results is what you are getting. Better to change that relay before the contacts weld in the ON position.

That's what I've always done, start after the wts light goes off, but for the last month you couldn't, and since this was a real cold winter I'd cycle them more often. Had a alot of negative temp days. What suprised me is it did so well this winter even with the cold cold weather and not being plugged in when i was at work or school. I'll go ahead and test the GP's I forget when we last replaced them, is there any glow plug relay that is in better graces with all of you?


Oh and thank you so much for all of your input

 

[MR.T]

... is there any glow plug relay that is in better graces with all of you?

Oh and thank you so much for all of your input

Sounds like you probably need the whole GP controller w/ relay. Mine is using a NAPA one, it's worked fine.

Here's some amperage numbers I made in another thread. If you have access to a DC clamp-on ammeter, they're pretty handy to troubleshoot and verify stuff works after repairs.