Glow Plug Connector Rebuild

Zaggnutt

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So I recently added another IDI to the family and one of the many problems it has is the glow plug caps have turned to dough. What's left of the metal underneath is corroded and not so conductive. The P.O said the glow plug controller didn't work. Just started clickin' right away. Huh. That's odd. Why would it malfunction...?
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Parts list... I'm busy so a pic or two will have to suffice for the parts list.
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If you don't know the condition of the wire running your glow plug harness you should inspect it for pinches, exposed threads, corrosion, etc., and if necessary replace it. I had 10 gauge wire on hand, but 10 would not trip the glow plug timer properly because the controller works on resistance. I'm not getting into that here but you can research gp controllers and how they work if necessary. Pretty sure the stock harness gauge is 14. My trucks tend to start and stop a lot whether it is business related or running around with the kids so the manny glow plug switch was already happening immediately after this repair. I really like being in control of the gp system and it is an easy and cheap mod. I've done 2 now.

I got the snap connecters from Home Depot. They were $2.65/box? Roughly. I couldn't find the females only and you will not be using the males. The glow plug tip fits into the end meant for the male connector (the large end).
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I crimped the first bank before deciding to solder everything together to make a better connection. Crimping is not going to hold up in this situation in my opinion. These connections are tight and getting them off while working underneath injector lines and turbo housings increases the likelihood of failure. I removed and rebuilt both banks with solder. If using solder I would recommend either pushing the plastic sleeve away from the wired end or trimming it so there is less plastic contamination.
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I learned something at the end I should have done in the beginning... Before putting on the cap and soldering slide a 1/2" long piece of shrink tubing onto the wire that is the smaller diameter for the wire size. It will be probably 1/2" and will shrink to 1/4". It will make a better seal. If this note is confusing, you will understand in a minute. ANYWAY, next you will strip the wire about 1/2" and insert it into the snap cap.
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I used a needle nose here, but I also used a pliers to hold the cap while I soldered. It is a ***** to get everything to set just right. Be patient. It's worth it. I bent the wire on a 90 and melted solder on the exposed area then bent the wire on a 90 the other way to make a ring of solder all around the cap's "cup".
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The mechanic at the shop had a metal parts box labeled "Shrinky Dinky Tube" for his shrink tube assortmentLOL Retired NYC police officer. You just can't teach someone that isn't from NYC to say MotherF@#$er the way a New Yorker does it. It's impressive. Anyway, I brought my own Shrinky **** Tube because I didn't want to be a Thievin' MotherF@#$er.
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So here's where the little piece of 1/2" shrink tube comes in. You can't get it on over the cap so it needs to be on there already. Slide it over the shrink tube you just finished so that half is on the shrink tube and half is on the wire. Once you shrink it you will have a better seal on the wire and added strength where it overlaps. I didn't realize I had the smaller diameter tubing til my last two gp wires.
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Hope this helps those with disintegrating gp caps. Total cost had I done new wiring as well would still have been less than $25. Took a few hours, but I wasn't in a hurry. The cool benefit I hadn't planned on is when you use these caps and the shrink tube they feel just like the originals.
 

mblaney

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Nice writeup! Many here probably need to fix these - me included.

One comment on the soldered connections; I do like soldering connections but it is very important to have a proper crimp. Solder tends to crystallize and create a higher resistance at the connection, especially when dealing with high current application. I always crimp and then solder the exposed wire (like on a ring terminal) but relying solely on the solder is not a good idea.

I would suggest that using a high quality crimper rather than soldering; of course if you are using a pair of pliers or a hammer to make your crimp then maybe solder is a better idea.

Nice job with the shrink tube.
 

Zaggnutt

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Okay, thanks. I am no expert by any means. I will look into that.
 

OLDBULL8

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Zaggnut: Good write up on how to repair a harness. Those connectors, 16-14-12-10 are available at just about any Auto parts store also.
If you don't know the condition of the wire running your glow plug harness you should inspect it for pinches, exposed threads, corrosion, etc., and if necessary replace it. I had 10 gauge wire on hand, but 10 would not trip the glow plug timer properly because the controller works on resistance. I'm not getting into that here but you can research gp controllers and how they work if necessary. Pretty sure the stock harness gauge is 14.

Just to set the record straight. #10 AWG copper wire 22 strand has a resistance of ~.999 Ohms per 1000 ft. #14 AWG copper wire 22 strand has a resistance of ~2.525 Ohms per 1000 ft. Using this ~ because the resistance varies due to ambient temperature.

The GP harness has two #10 AWG wires ~ 18" long, one for each side, four #14AWG wires feed the GP's, the longest wire is ~ 12". So the resistance of the wire is so small it has no effect on the GP controller operation, it's the GP's themselves that has the controlling resistance, as the GP heats, the resistance increases, now the Zig Zag Nichrome on the strip on the GPC relay enters into the resistance of the circuit, the ambient temperature also enters into the equation, the colder the ambient temperature, the lower the circuit resistance is. As the GP's heat, the resistance increases, when the overall circuit resistance rises as the GP's heat, that determines the length of GP cycle. All connections must be tight and corrosion free.
Pic shows a half of a GP harness, the larger wire Blue is #10AWG, smaller Brown are #14AWG.
 

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Zaggnutt

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Zaggnut: Good write up on how to repair a harness. Those connectors, 16-14-12-10 are available at just about any Auto parts store also.


Just to set the record straight. #10 AWG copper wire 22 strand has a resistance of ~.999 Ohms per 1000 ft. #14 AWG copper wire 22 strand has a resistance of ~2.525 Ohms per 1000 ft. Using this ~ because the resistance varies due to ambient temperature.

The GP harness has two #10 AWG wires ~ 18" long, one for each side, four #14AWG wires feed the GP's, the longest wire is ~ 12". So the resistance of the wire is so small it has no effect on the GP controller operation, it's the GP's themselves that has the controlling resistance, as the GP heats, the resistance increases, now the Zig Zag Nichrome on the strip on the GPC relay enters into the resistance of the circuit, the ambient temperature also enters into the equation, the colder the ambient temperature, the lower the circuit resistance is. As the GP's heat, the resistance increases, when the overall circuit resistance rises as the GP's heat, that determines the length of GP cycle. All connections must be tight and corrosion free.
Pic shows a half of a GP harness, the larger wire Blue is #10AWG, smaller Brown are #14AWG.

Thanks for the info. I was reading a thread from someone that rebuilt the entire harness with 10 guage and it was suggested that using the lower gauge wire wouldn't trip the controller early enough because the wire could handle more resistance. I was aware of the gp resistance and ambient temp factor, but I didn't have proof of the wire gauge effect just info gleaned from research. I was trying to encourage using like for like just so there weren't any issues. Because I was disconnecting the controller right away to run the manual gp button I knew I wouldn't be able to test the wire gauge effect properly.
 

OLDBULL8

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I'm doing a lot of research on Glow Plugs, just like the Mythybusters do. to damn cold now, will have to wait for warmer weather. Here is some of the equipment I'm building to see what each individual GP acts like. Amp meter for each GP, and overall volt and current meter at the top. , those and bars are current shunts.. Damn it gets expensive. About $450 now.
 

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Zaggnutt

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I'm doing a lot of research on Glow Plugs, just like the Mythybusters do. to damn cold now, will have to wait for warmer weather. Here is some of the equipment I'm building to see what each individual GP acts like. Amp meter for each GP, and overall volt meter, those bars are current shunts.. Damn it gets expensive.

What is the hypothesis you are testing?
 

ironworker40

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I rebuilt my glow plug harness with 8 ga and 10 ga wire. I also moved the controller to the fender well so the battery power wire from solenoid to the controller is only like 6" long now. I also changed from 8 working champion glow plugs to 8 new motorcraft's. It definitely takes longer for controller wait to start light to go off now. I was thinking it was the glow plugs. Do you guys think it is the larger wire?
 

ironworker40

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here is the controller and bracket I made
 

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OLDBULL8

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What each new GP pulls in current, What overall current is W/new. What one bad one GP has on timing. Cycle time at various ambient temps. Difference between new and old. Difference between brands. Difference between years of GP controllers. The setup I now have in the garage, shows the starting current and voltage and the cycle time, and reduction of current and voltage during the cycle. It's on U-tube someplace and a thread on here. And more of what I can think of.
 

Zaggnutt

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What each new GP pulls in current, What overall current is W/new. What one bad one GP has on timing. Cycle time at various ambient temps. Difference between new and old. Difference between brands. Difference between years of GP controllers. The setup I now have in the garage, shows the starting current and voltage and the cycle time, and reduction of current and voltage during the cycle. It's on U-tube someplace and a thread on here. And more of what I can think of.

Great! I hope you can find the time to start a thread for the testing and results. Would be valuable info to me and diesel owners who are interested in more than their truck starting and running.
 

OLDBULL8

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I rebuilt my glow plug harness with 8 ga and 10 ga wire. I also moved the controller to the fender well so the battery power wire from solenoid to the controller is only like 6" long now. I also changed from 8 working champion glow plugs to 8 new motorcraft's. It definitely takes longer for controller wait to start light to go off now. I was thinking it was the glow plugs. Do you guys think it is the larger wire?
Read my post above about wire resistance. You should have some battery power to the relay wire protection, like fusible links, if any thing would short out, your susceptible to a fire. Haven't tested the different brands yet, but from what your saying I would think it's the Champion to Motorcraft GP's.
 

Zaggnutt

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I rebuilt my glow plug harness with 8 ga and 10 ga wire. I also moved the controller to the fender well so the battery power wire from solenoid to the controller is only like 6" long now. I also changed from 8 working champion glow plugs to 8 new motorcraft's. It definitely takes longer for controller wait to start light to go off now. I was thinking it was the glow plugs. Do you guys think it is the larger wire?

You basically have a brand new system so it is impossible to point at one thing. I would monitor the length of time before your WTS light is on for and your amp gauge. As long as the WTS light is not staying on for more than 10 seconds I would be comfortable with it. OLDBULL can prove this with his testing equipment, but it seems to me that a lower gauge wire (thicker, more copper) can handle more current therefore resistance will build slower in the wire. Resistance buildup from the gp's heating up coupled with ambient temperature, trips the gp controller, but I think the wire gauge was deliberately intended to coincide with gp resistance buildup. BUT - I have no proof of this so this is"grain of salt" info.
 

OLDBULL8

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When you read my post's, I'm not a Guru by any means, just an electrician/electronics by trade with 60 yrs. experience. So take it for what it's worth. :D :backoff ;Really:cheers:

Edit: Now nI have to get my bowl of Kellogs Raisin Bran to keep from getting full of you know what.
 
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ironworker40

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oldbull8 I think like you said length of wire is too short to matter. I think it has more to do with brand and old /new glow plugs. Also controller comes into play, but I didn't change that. I use the factory power wire for the battery supply. I cut it shorter and put new ring terminal on it, that way I still have factory fuse links.
zaggnutt How did the home depot terminals hold onto the glow plugs. I was not happy with the ones I got from napa. I was thinking the next time I change glow plugs that I would use 6.9 spade style because you can get a tighter connection.
I got 17 seconds until light goes out. 5 more until relay clicks. 28 degrees outside and truck has not run since Saturday. Timed with stopwatch.
 
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