Gear Vendor output yoke?

[typ4]

Unless you're doing 25 miles an hour in reverse or more it's not even going to try to engage the gear vendors but I'm sure some people can mess that up. That's exactly how Calvin's got exploded when he loaned his truck out somebody hauling ass in reverse., Tire spinning actually

 

[Cubey]

"Going in reverse was the biggest no-no according to GV Headquarters, whom I’ve called several times when repairing and maintaining my GV."

Source: https://www.nickpisca.com/diesel/el...replaced-my-controller-with-a-simple-circuit/

 

[Black dawg]

On mine when I have forgotten it on and tried to back up, it slips......like feels like the clutch is slipping.

From what I have seen and been told by GV, backing up loads....even with the GV off, is very rough them and I have seen several broken ones from trying to back trailers up.

 

[Cubey]

On mine when I have forgotten it on and tried to back up, it slips......like feels like the clutch is slipping.

From what I have seen and been told by GV, backing up loads....even with the GV off, is very ******* them and I have seen several broken ones from trying to back trailers up.

Huh? Why would it be bad to back with it off? Without power, it completely disables it, I thought, and makes it a direct drive unit. Do they really expect you to never back up, ever with a GVOD installed?

It's easy enough to avoid it being powered on while backing with a NC relay circuit.

EDIT: Hmm, I found this online:

"Gear vendors have an clutch or band in them, and reverse commonly burns out. They are real sturdy for forward travel, but I wouldn't run one in a plow truck, reverse with load eats them up quick."

Well to be honest, I don't back up that much. I'm not sure that'll be a problem, but who knows.

 

[Cubey]

Oh and Gear Vendors has changed their minds on the OCI. Originally (maybe from the Laycock days) it was 10k miles, but GV says 5k now.

To quote them: "Recommended service interval – change fluid every 5,000 miles depending on severity of duty."

So, I suppose it could be 2,500 miles under severe duty? That's the same as an IDI severe duty OCI so at least it would be easy to remember to do it.

At least with a deep sump mod, it becomes easier since it has a drain bolt.

GV says you can use either dino (GM#1052271 - $11/qt) or syth oil (GM#12346190 - $20-30/qt). I'd probably use dino since a deep sump takes over a quart (48oz) vs the flat/basic (28oz) so I'd need two quarts to fill now and then. Pretty expensive to spend $60 on gear oil every 2500 miles.

 

[Cubey]

Huh, it seems that GM 1052271 is NLA and seems to have no equivalent?

I wonder if this would be acceptable. It's GL-5 spec but costs 1/4 of the syth GM 12346190. Maybe not because it mentions limited slip compatible. I think it needs oil that lacks it? I guess I need to make a list of questions to ask and call GV, because their website seems to be full of outdated info.

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[Cubey]

Actually, I think this is a good equiv. It's GL-4 and the right weight:

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/red-line-synthetic-oil/oil--chemicals---fluids/grease---lube/gear-oil---vehicle-specific/9d2397e8fd8f/red-line-synthetic-gear-oil-mt-85-75w-85-gl-4-1-quart/rl00/50504

 

[Black dawg]

Over the years I have heard several different oils...and straight from GV.....from atf to 90w.

 

[Cubey]

Over the years I have heard several different oils...and straight from GV.....from atf to 90w.

Yeah. Some opinions out there say it may due to different clutch materials being used at different times, or some such thing. I guess I might start with something cheaper a bit like MT-85 and see how it does.

 

[Cubey]

It looks like I found the signal generator GV uses. I'll need it to connect up the speedometer cable since it adapts the ford housing cable to the GM speedometer gear with the short cable with the GV unit.

Pardon Our Interruption

 

[Old Goat]

Check out this thread, go down to post# 13 and he has pictures of installing a pump and filter, and increased the fluid capacity to 5 qts.

My Gear Vendors experience (with pics) - Dodge Diesel - Diesel Truck Resource Forums

3rd Gen High Performance and Accessories (5.9L Only) - My Gear Vendors experience (with pics) - I would like to share with everyone my experience with my latest toy. I bought a Gear Vendors auxiliary overdrive (http://www.gearvendors.com). It is basically a small second transmission bolted...

www.dieseltruckresource.com

Goat

 

[Cubey]

Check out this thread, go down to post# 13 and he has pictures of installing a pump and filter, and increased the fluid capacity to 5 qts.

My Gear Vendors experience (with pics) - Dodge Diesel - Diesel Truck Resource Forums

3rd Gen High Performance and Accessories (5.9L Only) - My Gear Vendors experience (with pics) - I would like to share with everyone my experience with my latest toy. I bought a Gear Vendors auxiliary overdrive (http://www.gearvendors.com). It is basically a small second transmission bolted...

www.dieseltruckresource.com

Goat

Interesting, but too much extra hassle, extra places for leaks and failure. And 5qts? Yikes that's almost $100 to fill. and how would you know you filled it properly? And how do you fill it with the filler port being tied into the pump system? I would just stick with a deep sump.

And thinking about how some say reverse kills GVs even with it turned off, I wonder if that's more a problem on newer trucks with more HP and torque. It would be much easier to "over" rev it and stress the GV clutches, I'm betting.

 

[Black dawg]

I have seen so many of these run out of oil, that lived, that I really dont think oil capacity (or viscosity) is really that big of a deal. The ones I have seen ran out of oil stopped shifting, and that is what got the attention of the driver. Add oil...fix leak....work fine again.

As far as the oil types, thicker the oil the softer the shift, and they can really bang with atf.

 

[Cubey]

I think I'll use one of these for the GV power switch for better protection against accidentally turning it on when I don't want it on.

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[Cubey]

Got ahold of Gear Vendors today. The parts I need aren't too terribly expensive, all things considered. The guy highly recommended a controller, and the price of the complete wiring kit isn't that bad. I might go ahead get that too. Even after factoring in cost of the parts needed, including the controller kit, it'll end up being $800-$1,000 less than a brand new complete kit.

Oh and based on the serial number, it was made around 1988. Due to it's age, the fibre type of clutch materials used don't need fancier expensive oil, any regular conventional, non-synthetic gear oil will work.