Gauges Guidance

[Scratcher]

Thought I should start another thread since the FSS fuse rating thread has gone way OT lol.



So, as you can tell from my sig I have a stock truck with no bell's and whistles. I no longer use it for work because I took an nice easy indoor job as a facilities director in a local school. Basically I'm a glorified janitor! That being said, the truck gets driven in summer and decent winter days. It collects mulch in Spring and Firewood in the fall. I actually have a little logging operation lined up which justified the purchase of a new Stihl 20' Farmboss saw.

Anyway, if you followed the other thread you know my glow plug harness is out right now, so I'm on a single wire to the IP but my nerves are jangling every time I look at dead gauges. So I'm biting the bullet and going for Glowshift since they seem the easiest selection for someone like me. I'm thinking Oil Pressure, Coolant temp and voltage. So my question is
1 Do I need to run power to the gauges and is there any else i need to get other than the kit that Glowshift sells?

7 Color Series Triple Gauge Package for 1982-1986 Ford F-Series

GlowShift’s 7 Color Series Triple Gauge Package for the 1982-1986 Ford F-Series Bullnose Includes Your Choice of (3) Gauges and a Black Triple Pillar Pod.

www.glowshiftdirect.com

 

[Nero]

I've installed two of Glowshift's pillar kits, one with 3 gauges, one with 4. You do need to run power, get one of those ATO fuse taps.

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NW_785134?r-src=SSE:PDP&ppid=NW_723206&ir=6&tps=6

I ran two of these, one for the constant power and one for switched. Tapped off radio fuse and... I can't remember the other one.

Kits are relatively easy to install, I used 99% of the wire that came in the kit. I had bought an install wiring kit, but didn't like how the splices were spaced.

I installed the gauges to the pod loosely, then ran the wires on the pillar on the bench, zip tied them all down. Towards the end where it meets the dash, I spliced all like-colored wires together, so all the grounds are shared, all the switched power is shared.... Ect. Only individual wires run were sensor wires.

 

[ROCK HARVEY]

If it were me, I would skip the voltage gauge and get an EGT gauge instead. If you want voltage you can get a cigarette lighter voltage meter like this one:

Dual USB Car Charger,4.8A Output,Cigarette Lighter Voltage Meter Compatible with Apple iPhone,iPad,Samsung Galaxy,LG,Google Nexus,USB Charging Devices,Silver https://a.co/d/hOdsZMr

 

[Nero]

I would suggest oil pressure, water temp, if you have a turbo, EGT and boost. If you don't have a turbo, dealers choice for the other spots.

 

[Brian VT]

It seems they don't have a tach. for diesels?

 

[WrenchWhore]

If it were me, I would skip the voltage gauge and get an EGT gauge instead. If you want voltage you can get a cigarette lighter voltage meter like this one:

Dual USB Car Charger,4.8A Output,Cigarette Lighter Voltage Meter Compatible with Apple iPhone,iPad,Samsung Galaxy,LG,Google Nexus,USB Charging Devices,Silver https://a.co/d/hOdsZMr

Do these stay powered when the truck is off? That's a great idea! I've seen some with thermometers as well.

 

[ROCK HARVEY]

Do these stay powered when the truck is off? That's a great idea! I've seen some with thermometers as well.

The stock cig lighter is always on, but there’s “key on” power available right behind it from the radio harness. My dash cam plugs into the cig lighter for power, so I have it set up to turn off when I take the key out.

 

[ROCK HARVEY]

It seems they don't have a tach. for diesels?

Someone else can correct me if I’m wrong, but I believe that if you do the 3g alternator upgrade you can run an aftermarket tach (like the one they sell for gas trucks) from the stator wire.

 

[Brian VT]

Interesting. I do have a new 3g alternator sitting here for when my old one quits.
I don't understand how that would affect the tach. though.

 

[ROCK HARVEY]

The stock tach has a magnetic sensor on the timing cover that senses the teeth of the timing gear, so the only tach that will understand that signal is the stock one. The 3g alternator puts out a more “generic” signal that should work with aftermarket tachs. I don’t know for sure about he glowshift tach, but if it can read from an alternator stator signal it should work.

 

[ROCK HARVEY]

Found this on glowshift’s website:

“Our Tachometers are only designed for a gasoline, single coil application when monitoring a gauges RPM. For multiple coil applications, the use of a multiple coil or aftermarket ignition system adapter is required. Vehicles equipped with High Energy Ignition Systems (HEI) will require GlowShift’s HEI Signal Filter.”

Based on this, I don’t think their tachs will work with the 3g alt.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

I don't know about Glow Shift specifically, but there are some diesel tachs that use the alternator for a signal.

 

[franklin2]

If it were me, I would skip the voltage gauge and get an EGT gauge instead. If you want voltage you can get a cigarette lighter voltage meter like this one:

Dual USB Car Charger,4.8A Output,Cigarette Lighter Voltage Meter Compatible with Apple iPhone,iPad,Samsung Galaxy,LG,Google Nexus,USB Charging Devices,Silver https://a.co/d/hOdsZMr

I would keep the voltage gauge AND the EGT gauge. The more info the better. If you can get the stock tach to work, keep it along with the speedometer and the fuel gauge.

 

[Scratcher]

Let me just clarify. This is for a stock non turbo 6.9

 

[IDIBRONCO]

A pyrometer is even more important for a N/A engine than it is for one with a turbo. With the small incoming air flow (compared to a turbo), it's easier to get too high of EGTs.