Fuel selector switch broken?

nelstomlinson

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Search amazon or eBay for 6C3Z-9189-A and you should find plenty of options in the $50 range to replace your factory valve. We put one on a truck of ours a couple years ago when they first came out and it’s still working fine so I don’t hesitate to recommend them to anyone who is interested.
All ebay is showing is for the late model superduties. They'll probably work, but will take a different connector, right? The cost I'm seeing is about the same as that Groco valve, too.
 

aggiediesel01

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All ebay is showing is for the late model superduties. They'll probably work, but will take a different connector, right? The cost I'm seeing is about the same as that Groco valve, too.

I don’t know why they are labeled for super duty. I don’t know of a single super duty that had dual tanks. The application notes show it for back to ‘87 and up to ‘97 which is correct. I think the ‘83-‘86 trucks had a different valve. The electrical connector and fuel line connectors are identical and in the same orientation as the ones on our trucks. For me, $50 for a plug and play option that fixes the problem in 15-20min instead of having to cut and splice fuel lines and electrical connectors is a way better solution. The old part numbers that cross to this new number are:

F4TZ-9189-A, E9TZ-9189-A, F5TB-9F271-AA, 6C3Z-9189-A

https://www.ebay.com/itm/283907790649
 
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IDIBRONCO

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I don’t know why they are labeled for super duty. I don’t know of a single super duty that had dual tanks.
You can't really trust all of the sellers to have accurately labeled what they sell. It may simply be a case of sellers who don't know what they're selling.

For me, $50 for a plug and play option that fixes the problem in 15-20min instead of having to cut and splice fuel lines and electrical connectors is a way better solution.
Oh my God YES! This is my method at least 99% of the time. KISS. Keep it simple, stupid. That should have been my middle name!
 

aggiediesel01

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It may simply be a case of sellers who don't know what they're selling.

I agree for probably 99% of the sellers on there. It’s definitely a buyer be aware. However Acurate Diesel, a fairly reputable website for performance and repair parts, is also using this description which baffles me. Maybe they aren’t as sharp as they should be either. But that part in the picture is what I put on our ‘93 a couple years ago, it’s a bolt on, plug and play solution and it’s still working fine.
 

papadiesel

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Have had this happen before and with light tapping (it is plastic) I have had it on the tank it wont go to and had it "click in". Did that for a year and replaced the valve, they are not as much as they used to be (58 bucks) sold by a military supplier because they use them in the hum vee with 7.3. plan on jacking the truck up on one side for minimal spillage, but you will get a diesel bath and buy new fuel clips first because you will break one of the six at least! Mine has worked flawlessly for 7 years after replacing!
 

papadiesel

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my son came back from Afghanistan and his buddy worked on the deuce and a halves all with 7.3 (not the humvee, my bad) with turbos.
 

IDIBRONCO

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Well that's cool. I thought that the duece and a halves were phased out by 1989 and had been replaced by the 5 tons. I also thought that they all had a Cummins or other, bigger, medium duty, inline 6 diesels.
 

Colton Stevens

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Easiest way is put your head down near it and have a friend flip the switch. If it's working you'll hear it, if not you won't. (Key on engine off is best)

Switch is easy to test, find the pinout for the valve and unplug it. The dash switch just flip flops power and ground. Hook a voltmeter up and it should read about 12v, flip the switch and it should read -12v


So small update no sound when hitting the switch between tanks but if tje switch or valve failed both would cause the no sound when switching. I tried to test with volt meter and not sure if I'm just not hooking it in correct or not but couldn't get any volt reading
 

franklin2

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Go down to the valve, you should have voltage on the brown/white and the red wires. These are the motor wires for the motor in the valve. This works just like a electric window motor setup. The switch swaps the polarity on these two wires to make the motor in the valve go one direction or the other direction. All the other wires down there are for the sending units and the dash gauge.

P.S. Make sure the key is in run before taking voltage readings. The engine doesn't have to be running. And take the readings between the two wires, not ground.
 

chillman88

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You might as well try swapping the fuse just in case. I've heard of a few people who had one that looked fine but had blown anyway.
 

IDIBRONCO

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You might as well try swapping the fuse just in case. I've heard of a few people who had one that looked fine but had blown anyway.
I had that happen one time. It was with one of the old glass tube fuses. The middle part wasn't burned out, but there wasn't any continuity between the two ends. A new fuse fixed the problem.
 
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