Fuel line recommendations

[Luda-Chris]

My truck is leaking fuel from the steel hard lines running from the rear tank along the frame to the FSV. They just sweat fuel when the rear tank is selected. I've avoided the issue by not using my rear tank, but I'd like to fix this issue. Do I need to replace these lines with steel or can I run a diesel rated rubber line instead?

 

[riphip]

Diesel rated rubber is fine.

 

[franklin2]

You can get lengths of universal steel line at the parts stores. I think it lasts longer than rubber line. If you add a few more dollars and get the copper/nickel line, that line is very easy to run, almost like stiff wire. Very easy to snake through the frame brackets and along the other lines on the frame. It's easiest to make long runs with a couple of pieces with a coupler. Just make sure you run the long line behind the fuel tank, and put the coupler in front or behind (in this case probably in the rear) where you can easily tighten the coupler. The copper nickel should last the life of the truck.

 

[Clb]

There is a reason why nhra limits flex line to 12" ...
You rust belt guys get the $$ up stainless stuff!

 

[Luda-Chris]

You can get lengths of universal steel line at the parts stores. I think it lasts longer than rubber line. If you add a few more dollars and get the copper/nickel line, that line is very easy to run, almost like stiff wire. Very easy to snake through the frame brackets and along the other lines on the frame. It's easiest to make long runs with a couple of pieces with a coupler. Just make sure you run the long line behind the fuel tank, and put the coupler in front or behind (in this case probably in the rear) where you can easily tighten the coupler. The copper nickel should last the life of the truck.

Will that copper/nickel line hold up to diesel fuel? I'm curious to how it will last over time with salt brine they like to spray all over our roads in the winter months. haha

 

[Philip1]

The Nickel copper will outlast the rest of the truck

 

[1mouse3]

If im correct this is a metal line with nylon hose end with quick disconect fittings. If so you would want quick disconect fittings to make a replacement line. I dont see any issue using just hose and rubber is not going to last long. You can go to a hydrolic shop to get eaton easy couple vinyl nitrile or parker push loc synthetic rubber hose, its ether they will carry. This will be in dash sizes and in even numbers, its in 16th of a inch so -6 is 6/16 which is 3/8. I got the eaton hose the other day for around $2 foot and number h20106bk. Here is the type fittings you would need and dont use clamps on push loc type fittings, it will cut the hose. The feed line is 3/8 and return is 5/16, there is no -5 so use -6 for both unless you want -8 for feed.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Z152-6AN-F...031933?hash=item1e9868ec3d:g:rb4AAOxymmJTkhAx
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Z151-6-AN-...086980?hash=item20fa3a6f04:g:rb4AAOxymmJTkhAx
https://www.ebay.com/itm/W462-6-AN-...086444?hash=item1eaccc42ac:g:icMAAOSwxp9W4SPj


If you want hard line most the way you can use this type fitting to connet the end hoses to a center line to mimic orignal line.

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...super-duty?q=Hose+Barb+5/8-18+inverted&pos=68

 

[franklin2]

If im correct this is a metal line with nylon hose end with quick disconect fittings. If so you would want quick disconect fittings to make a replacement line. I dont see any issue using just hose and rubber is not going to last long. You can go to a hydrolic shop to get eaton easy couple vinyl nitrile or parker push loc synthetic rubber hose, its ether they will carry. This will be in dash sizes and in even numbers, its in 16th of a inch so -6 is 6/16 which is 3/8. I got the eaton hose the other day for around $2 foot and number h20106bk. Here is the type fittings you would need and dont use clamps on push loc type fittings, it will cut the hose. The feed line is 3/8 and return is 5/16, there is no -5 so use -6 for both unless you want -8 for feed.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Z152-6AN-F...031933?hash=item1e9868ec3d:g:rb4AAOxymmJTkhAx
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Z151-6-AN-...086980?hash=item20fa3a6f04:g:rb4AAOxymmJTkhAx
https://www.ebay.com/itm/W462-6-AN-...086444?hash=item1eaccc42ac:g:icMAAOSwxp9W4SPj


If you want hard line most the way you can use this type fitting to connet the end hoses to a center line to mimic orignal line.

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/american-grease-stick-2775/hardware---fasteners-16585/brass-fittings-16690/hose-fittings-25412/f46735e4569c/american-grease-stick-3-8-inch-push-on-rig/phr14b/6108599/1993/ford/f-super-duty?q=Hose+Barb+5/8-18+inverted&pos=68

That's why I do not like the factory plastic line, especially with fuel injection. I hate dealing with those special fittings you need. I like generic fittings easily available and a good old hose clamp where I need it.

Rubber line is like radiator hose and drivebelts on the front of the engine. It will work, but will require maintenance eventually.

The copper/nickel line itself does great in the salt. What I don't like is the fittings on the end of the line they use, they are steel and will rust. It will take a long time for them to rust through since they have some thickness to them, but they can be difficult to remove for any repair work. If they would have used a stainless or brass nut on the end of the copper/nickel line, it would be bullet proof.

 

[Hagan]

I've been using aluminum fuel line and return line on my F350 for 4.5 years now. No issues at all. I'm using rubber fuel line on the ends. It's cheap and extremely easy to bend. Not sure how idi trucks are set up. Mine was a gasser and I ripped out the entire fuel system.

This is what I used...
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g2538