I'm not sure that the fuel heater remains on all the while the engine is running. If not, your pump would go off when the fuel heater goes off. That would be very inconvenient.
When I had an electric fuel pump I powered it from the starter relay on the passenger side fender, as I recall, with the fuel shutoff on the IP as the trigger for the relay. In that way the fuel pump would run only when the FSS was powered.
At least that's my recollection without looking under the hood. I have since reverted to a stock mechanical lift pump.
I learned the hard way, DO NOT USE starter solenoids. The are NOT constant duty rated. I was having a lot of trouble with starter solenoids, then I just went and bought a constant duty solenoid at napa, and has worked flawlessly since. The solenoid gets power straight off the passenger battery and uses FSS as the trigger wire, then an auxiliary fuse block.
I used the wire to the IP shutoff solenoid. I’ve seen people run a wire over to the IP to access “key on” 12v, but you can actually access the IP shutoff wire right by the passenger fender. It’s a red wire with a green stripe, and it’s in the thick wire loom that runs right along the passenger fender. Just use a multimeter/test light to verify that you’ve got the right wire. It makes for a much cleaner wiring job than a single extra wire running over to the IP.
On my 97 when I removed the pump and filter bowl when I did the efuel I used the heater wire to trigger the relay for my electric pump. 2 years, no problems.
You can see in the diagram below, the heater circuit is separate, and hot anytime the key is in start or run. It would work. The IP and the temp sensor are on the other circuit which is key-on hot also.
Fuel shut-off solenoid. It’s like so many things, you mention it enough, you just assume everyone else knows what you’re talking about. Maybe someday we need to make a shorthand and acronym glossary.
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