FS - IDI Performance

[hesutton]

i have never had any problems with my egts even pullin 20000lbs the idea is to have the intake air coming in to feed the fuel you are dumping

EGT's aren't the issue, its' the temperature of the intake charge. With a standard Banks, you are way out of it's effiency range above 10-12 psi or so. I lost 6 HP when my boost increased from 13 to 15+. An innercooler will help, but a turbo that is designed to boost 15-20 psi effiently would be the best solution if you plan on boosting in that range more often than not.

Heath

 

[wej612]

Has anyone tried a holset HX40 on a 6.9 or 7.3 idi... I have a HX40, a hy35 and a hx35 laying around... A Garrett TO4E... (41?) off a DTA360 or lower rated DT466 could work well I imagine too... I have several turbo's laying around to try out. HX40 should be good to over 400hp... very good high boost efficiency.. I may have to keep it. I already offered to someone.. Hope they don't accept my offer now that I know about pumps that can fuel a turbo IDI well for a reasonable price...

 

[Agnem]

Here are the flow numbers for the Moose family of pumps. These numbers are approximate.

Baby Moose (stock build) 60 CC Per 1000 strokes
Moose Pump (popular hot pump calibration) 90 CC Per 1000 strokes
Super Moose (yes it exists... no one has bought one yet) 120 CC Per 1000 strokes.

Prices remain stable for the Moose Pump family, even though Stanadyne has raised their prices again this year. The range is from around $550 to $675 Typical for a Bably Moose or Moose Pump. The Super Moose, due to extreme machining operations is estimated to be $1600 to $2000. As always, PM me for specific details.

 

[Agnem]

Unfortunately, it looks like I will need to bump the price up on the Moose Misters. I just had another set made, and they are up a few dollars. This should bring the price of a full set to $940. FYI.

 

[blown84]

tax return=moose fuel system. go me.

what if any problems will i see runnin 16 to 18 lbs of boost with this fuel system? (note, my setup will NOT turbo charged, and thus, not EGT sensitive... or is it?)

 

[gonecrazyi]

No Turbo = no boost

A moose pump will put out way to michbfuel causing your egts to go crazy when loaded or runnig hard.

 

[blown84]

No Turbo = no boost.

ah, but you are wrong my friend. think detroit...

and will the egts be enough to melt a set of headers or fry the valves?

 

[94turboidi]

If your supercharging it you might want to look into head studs because most people aren't running high boost on these engines without decompressing and head studs. Even though it would be a custom install for a supercharger it would have some cooling advantages but not fuel economy advantages. If I had the money people have had good luck with the moose pump, turbo and intercooler. Seems to be a pretty good setup on here.

 

[blown84]

thanks. head studs were already a part of the plan.

 

[turbonator]

Please refer to THIS THREAD for information on the Moose Mister Injectors.

Also, I can now state that Moose Pump and Baby Moose Pump are available for GM 6.2 and early non-computerized 6.5 DB2 pumps.

Hi Mel, are the flow #'s comparable for the GM DB2 pumps as you have listed in post # 78 for the Ford pumps (the same flow calibrations) ?

What diameter plungers are you using in the Moose and Super-Moose pumps ?
The extra cost in machining for the Super Moose, is that to have the delivery galleries opened up to allow the increase in fuel flow ?

 

[silverbulleter]

hi im in canada bc and wondering if i could send a pump to you for a moose rebuild and also wondering how expensive shipping would be

 

[OLDBULL8]

hi im in canada bc and wondering if i could send a pump to you for a moose rebuild and also wondering how expensive shipping would be

You had better PM Agnem, he might not see your post for awhile. A pump boxed for shipping weighs 13 Lbs. Mel Agnem is in Delta PA.

 

[Agnem]

Hey everyone, just a newsflash here. Recently I have been getting cores that were of dubious quality. One looked like somebody took it apart and put it together wrong, and another was so tore up by running WMO, that it took an inordinant amount of parts and labor. These pumps have really jacked up the cost of my rebuilds, so much to the point that I am looking at being forced into a price increase. My goal is to continue to keep these prices affordable, so to that end I am forced to make the following statement:

I will no longer accept pumps that are or were running Waste Motor Oil as fuel.
This also means that anyone who buys a pump from me and uses WMO or non #2 diesel alternative fuels (except legitamate biodiesels) will immeadiately void their warranty going forward.

The reality is, and I have posted about this MANY times in the past... the decision to run WMO as fuel is strictly a financial one. Yes, you can save incredible amounts of money by running WMO. I do it myself, in the Moosestang which is not running one of my pumps. But in so doing, one must set aside funds to make repairs to the fuel system which become necessary due to accelerated wear. The carbon in WMO is hard, and no amount of filtering is going to make that oil clean enough for an IP, and the carbon just tears the inside of a pump up. So if you run WMO, you are budgeting for an outright pump replacement. NOT an exchange. Since your saving all kinds of money, this news should not upset you. But I wanted to make it clear, that we cannot have the prices of pumps being driven up by thrifty folks who are making life harder for those who are willing to afford diesel.