For those of you who have installed a Banks Sidewinder turbo....

[discbrks]

What's the secret to the oil drain tube? I followed the instructions, stuck it in the grommet, then mounted the turbo to the cast iron up pipe. Then you're supposed to bolt the tube to the turbo. But somehow when bolting down the turbo I knocked the drain out of the grommet. To make it worse, I put a bead of gray RTV on the end of the tube.... so now there's gray RTV everywhere. Anyway, I'm gonna keep moving forward with the install, skipping the drain for now. I'll go start the exhaust system. Hopefully someone has a secret to this oil drain.

 

[discbrks]

And now I'm fighting the trans. dipstick tube. Where do I mount it? Any ideas?

 

[icanfixall]

The oil drain back tube is tuff but.. I had mine done by Banks and now I follow the bends they put in the tube. It really needs to be bent around to fit properly. I use RTV on the valley pan grommet also but I use it on the grove in the grommet first. Then install it in the pan and let it dry there. Then more rtv on the drop leg of the tube just as it enters the pan grommet so now I have (I hope) a complete seal of RTV in the critical oil area. That dip stick tube for the trans is almost impossible for me to get in place too. I use RTV on the tube to trans fit. I know most will not allow RTV near an auto trans but I feel I'm safe doing it. The threaded attachment at the rear of the head is really tuff on my hands to get to. The best idea is a shorty 1/2x9/16 combo wrench either open or closed end. Now reaching it from the bottom or top of the motor is up to you. I usually do it both ways till its tight. You can't do this with the down pipe in place... Sorry.... The down pipe will side in but its takes some fitting it thru everything. Just use some antisieze on the slip fit end and things will slide in place easier for you. That really about the last thing you wil be doing outside of the pyro. Use some antisieze on the too. My turbo wont easily bolt up to the up cast iron part. So what I need to do is start the top left nut first then the other 3. I guess my turbo is just a little off on the fit. I have tried plenty of differant ways to get the washers and nuts in that tight area but nothing really works any better than fingers. Be careful on the oil drain tube bolts and washers. There is a correct way the washers fit. Look closely at the. There are two washers per bolt. Some 3M super weather strip cement usually keeps them together when I'm installing them. I usually install the front on first and them the rear bolt. You may find that harder so find what works for you. This is a well engineered tight fitting design so give it time to work for you.

 

[fordboy324]

Hi there. I didnt install my banks turbo but my trans dipstick tube was tricky to get to because of the turbo and it was just hanging there when I got the truck so I used a band clamp to keep it in place. I noticed you kinda have to wiggle it in there till it fits but the only way it fits is a b**ch to get to from the top of the motor if you want to check the fluid. Makes it hard. Also the drain tube issue...dont know much about that. Hopefully you get that sucker in there and take it for a ride. I loved having my turbo!

Goodluck!

-Kouri

 

[Devilish]

I just pulled a banks turbo at the local Pick n Pull. The drain tube was cut then rejoined with a piece of hose and 2 clamps. Maybe this gives enough flexibility?

 

[discbrks]

Well, I got the drain tube in. Took about an hour of fiddling with it. I had to remove the heat shield that is held in place by the CDR block-off plate, install the drain, then reinstall the heat shield. I hope its stuck in the grommet deep enough. There's about 3/8" of straight tube above the grommet, then the bulge. I hope that makes sense.

Now, the transmission dipstick tube is another story all together. I wanna throw that sucker across the damn yard! As of this point, I have the cast-iron up pipe and the down pipe installed. The tube will stick into the lower portion (E4OD here), but there's no place to bolt it to. If I bend the crap out of the lower portion of the tube, then maybe I could bolt it to the back of the cyl. head closest to the rt. fender. But I'm scared to go bending on that tube and end up kinking it. I also notice that even when I ever re-engineer this tube, the dipstick will be in such an awkward position for checking trans. fluid. Any thoughts?
I think I have access to a dipstick & tube from an E350 w/E4OD..... if so, I might just use that configuration. It will put the dipstick in a much better location.

 

[Diesel JD]

Anybody know if the dipstick from a C6 is the same as for a E4? If so I have a flexible dipstick and tube I'd let you have cheap. It wouldn't take it but a day or 2 to get to you. lets verify its the same part but if so we can deal if you want. The other option is to get that tube, heat it up and bend it how you need it. I don't know if Banks sells a specific part for this or not, they might but it wouldn't be cheap. Alternately you could buy a new flexible dipstick.