Flexpipe Downpipe

Matrix37495

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As said, use stainless flex. I've used the cheaper stuff and it rots very fast. Our freightliner still has the 1996 flex pipe on it and not a spot of rust..


Make sure to use band clamps too. They seal much better, and if you need to you can take the joint apart later.


wmoguy, my turbo wont move an inch if i remover the dp...which is good cause half the exhaust is hanging there... :D
 

wmoguy

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As said, use stainless flex. I've used the cheaper stuff and it rots very fast. Our freightliner still has the 1996 flex pipe on it and not a spot of rust..


Make sure to use band clamps too. They seal much better, and if you need to you can take the joint apart later.


wmoguy, my turbo wont move an inch if i remover the dp...which is good cause half the exhaust is hanging there... :D

I just got out of the garage jacking with mine while taking some more measurements for my upgrades. Removed DP clamp, pushed back on turbo with one hand and got a good 1" backward movement and its pretty clear the seal at the intake snail would be broke. Everything else is tight. Oh well apparently my pickup is special. No skin off my back on what one chooses to try. flex pipe on! ;Sweet
 

dakotajeep

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To the OP:

If you or anyone else does this, do a thorough write-up so others will have a "road to Success"

Thad
 

sootman73

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And handy helper point, pull the transmission crossmember and drop the transmission way down. Good luck getting it in and out of there without doing this. plus remember you have to cut the lip on the firewall to fit this in and with the trans down you can get a grinder in there much easier.
 

hesutton

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And handy helper point, pull the transmission crossmember and drop the transmission way down. Good luck getting it in and out of there without doing this. plus remember you have to cut the lip on the firewall to fit this in and with the trans down you can get a grinder in there much easier.

Ben's right. You'll need all the room you can get. LOL

Here's how I got that lip out of the way, but I had the engine pulled which made it much easier.
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Heath
 

Black dawg

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I was able to cut the slots with the engine in with a sawzall. Then big prybar to fold them over. BODY LIFTS ARE FOR CHEVYS.
 

IDI Diesel7.3

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If your looking for good quality flexpipe your probably best off going to your local semi dealer and getting "Donaldson" exhaust parts. Its what we use on all the farm trucks and seems to be the standard for big rig exhaust. They have a variety of reducers and stepped seal clamps that work great and seal well for flex pipe. I'll be getting all Donaldson pieces from the local pete dealer when i make my stack kit.

http://www.donaldson.com/en/exhaust/replacement/index.html
 

MidnightBlade

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When you connect the flex to the rest of the exhaust, don't use a step clamp they usually slide apart. Get the flat band clamp, they will stretch to the size of both pipes and make a weld-like seal.
 

Diesel_brad

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When you connect the flex to the rest of the exhaust, don't use a step clamp they usually slide apart. Get the flat band clamp, they will stretch to the size of both pipes and make a weld-like seal.

You are kidding, right? Step clamps are the best;Sweet
 

MidnightBlade

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Just a warning, that flex isn't as flexable as you think it will be. With a 6' section of 4" I couldn't get the ends of it to touch to make a circle.
 

Cincinnati Guy

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Looks like ill be doing this sometime soon guys. Anyone have the link to how to make the ATS down pipe work? Id like to compare the flex pipe cost and fab to the ats cost and fab.
 

rjjp

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Since this got brought back from the dead...
here is the biggest thing. make sure it is legal for you. by pa law flex pipe is not allowed on a passenger car or truck. only class 8 and up. it will not pass inspection.

cookoo What about the flex piece on most passenger cars from the factory?
 

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