First Diesel, Lots of Questions

dunk

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Get those injector line clamps on there before you run it much. Mine had 3 clamps covering 7 of the lines but one was hanging free without the 4th clamp. Cracked at an inconvenient time, highway trip a few hundred miles away. Had no choice but to run it the rest of the way there anc back on 7 cyls and leaking diesel all in the valley and down the back of the engine. I ordered new clamps and a new line from this place: http://thedieselstore.com/7_3-ford-1990.html Figure out waht you need so far as 3 and 4 line clamps, they have both. Mine is a 6.9 so can't help you with that. Every line must be clamped to others at least once on its run or vibrations will crack them. Mine cracked at the flared end right under the nut.
 

crash-harris

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PO ran it with just the one clamp from October to April and I've been daily driving it. I have a new set in the mail, but they won't be here before our trip to NC this weekend. I'm thinking of some large industrial zip ties that I have and some sort of packing material until the actual clamps come in.
 

crash-harris

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I forgot that I have industrial double loop ties. They are about 3/4" wide and have 2 toes that zip into a center block that is curved to accommodate hoses and hardlines. I'll put some on before we leave tonight and get a picture tonight or tomorrow. Doing all of this with a spring cold...

But at least the new fuel line clamps will be here early next week.
 

crash-harris

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The industrial "butterflies" seemed to have done well. Made the almost 500 mile journey to NC and got here no problem pulling mostly 60-70 mph the whole way and only used about a tank and a half. Temp gauge, as unreliable as it is, only ever hit the R in NORMAL once.

I do get a clunk weekend taking back off after coasting and I've planned to do u-joints soon anyway just to be safe. But it seems like most of my strange little noises are coming from the DM flywheel and a tiny exhaust leak that I have yet to find.

I don't think the CDR is connected to anything and I was 2 quarts low before the trip. Topped it off and will check to see how much was used before we head back to Ohio tomorrow.
 

crash-harris

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Back from the 800+ mile trip from Ohio to NC and back. Drove great on the way down, used maybe half a quart of oil though. No drips and no blue exhaust. I delayed our departure by about 2 hours when I found that the rear most u-joint was toast and very wobbly, so I wrestled it in the autozone parking lot and had a grand and smooth trip back.

I'm very surprised by the perception of fuel mileage on the trip. The IDI with 4.10's and 235/85R16's drank less fuel at 65-70 than 60 mph on my daily commute. And I was pulling 5% grades at 70 mph without a single hiccup or concern.

But next on the list is to do the other 2 u-joints and the carrier bearing. Fuel clamps also showed up the day after we left, so they'll be going on this week.

Got lots of thumbs up from other drivers!
 

crash-harris

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So here's my next question, how does the 2 piece driveshaft come apart? Does it just pull apart at the slip joint, or is there something special to it?

I've never messed with pulling driveshafts apart and I would like to replace the carrier bearing/center support when I do the rest of the u-joints.
 

crash-harris

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Nothing on getting the driveshaft slip joint apart to replace the carrier bearing?

Well I got the fuel clamps on. Not 100% factory placement, but they're on.
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cpdenton

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I didn't replace the u joints in my truck, becaus I had to have the front section retubed when I swapped the zf in. I had the tech who built the driveshaft replace all the joints and carrier bearing at that time.

I do know that the back half just slides off the front half after you unbolt the rear yoke. Then unbolt the carrier bearing from the frame crossmember, then unhook from the transmission and it comes out. I think the carrier bearing is pressed on.
 

crash-harris

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That's what I was looking for. Figured the carrier bearing was pressed on, but want site about getting it apart at the slip joint. Now I just have to find time to get that all done without using the 20 ton press (dad's, on the other side of the county) one day before I go to work. I may just have to rent a ball joint press for a week and do it a piece at a time.

Btw, what was left of the destroyed u-joint cap is still stuck in a ball joint press at a NC autozone...
 

crash-harris

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So does anyone know how to press on the new carrier bearing?

I could got it off with a 2 or 3 jaw puller, but not sure how to get a new one back on without a really long or tall shop press.
 

crash-harris

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So from everything that I've read, it seems like my longer start times could be from worn injectors. I'm assuming this since I installed the new ZD9 GP's when the truck had been sitting for 2 days and it started after 3 cranks. Times are a little longer again. Could still be air intrusion though. Now that some other things are taken care of, I'm looking at getting new BB code injectors when I can.

The question is, I've read that you should REPLACE the IP with new injectors. Could I just get the current IP retimed? Could I do it myself and how?

Would also be doing a return line kit with new injectors of course.
 

dunk

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So does anyone know how to press on the new carrier bearing?

I could got it off with a 2 or 3 jaw puller, but not sure how to get a new one back on without a really long or tall shop press.

I slice the old with a cutoff wheel to remove. Installing the new use the sliced off center piece on the new one and a hammer and punch working around it. My press is not big enough to do a driveshaft.
 

crash-harris

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I slice the old with a cutoff wheel to remove. Installing the new use the sliced off center piece on the new one and a hammer and punch working around it. My press is not big enough to do a driveshaft.

I have decided to just take it to napa when I get around to taking it apart and replacing the other 2 u-joints. I have friends that run the machine and driveline shop at napa.
 
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