First Diesel, Lots of Questions

[crash-harris]

Ah, I see. I don't see a factory separator anywhere on the truck though. Did the bricknose/7.3L trucks not come with one?

I've also failed to mention, I get a lot of noise from the bellhousing area, sounds like a rattling. I'm guessing this is from the springs in the DM and it's going to need attention? Plan to do a solid flywheel eventually anyway, but would rather wait until next year if possible.

PO didn't replace the clutch when the transmission was rebuilt, but he did replace the throw out bearing. Although the clutch is STIFF. Have to press the pedal all the way down, then a little more to start and get into 1st/reverse. Moved the gasser truck around and though the clutch line had popped of the slave because it is so effortless by comparison. Firewall doesn't look cracked from under the dash.

 

[Waystro]

That would be very much appreciated. Thanks! I can PM you details when you come across it.

Sounds good I'll let you know when I find it.

 

[TahoeTom]

Look under the dash at the clutch linkage. The master pushrod has an eye that goes on a pin on a lever arm. There should be a plastic bushing between the pin and eye. The bushing wears and goes away, then the pushrod eye and pin start wearing each other. The first page of this thread has a couple of pictures of the carnage. http://www.oilburners.net/forums/sh...!-And-the-only-thing-I-can-do-is-get-it-towed.
The 7.3 combined the fuel/water separator into the fuel filter. I don't have that setup, but there is supposed to be a drain on the bottom of the fuel filter and the water in fuel sensor is there too.

 

[cpdenton]

Can you be more specific? I noticed that one didn't look right this evening while replacing the 3 of the 4 GP's on the drivers side. Maybe the one running from front to back (return from the IP)? Know where I could get those clamps?

I have a picture here, but it's not very good. Too much turbo piping in the way on my truck. Basically, your lines don't line up very well. That was what I noticed. You can see in my picture how the lines line up nice and orderly. This allows the clamps to be installed tightly.

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As far as your filter head goes. Lots of people take the factory water separator off and replace it with the wix 3417 filter that has the water separator built in. I did on mine to solve a leak I had.
Here is a pic of what the factory one looks like.

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Here is a picture of the 3417 filter. This is my filter head. One other thing you might end up needing to do involves the fuel heater. It is on top of the filter head. Has some o rings that have a tendency to leak. One way to fix it is to remove it, tap the hole with a 1/2 in npt pipe plug and plug it off.

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[cpdenton]

One other thing. That hard line return from the IP. That is a 6.9 thing. 7.3 diesels never had that from the factory. The return was tee'd in with the injector returns and the return off the filter head.

 

[crash-harris]

One other thing. That hard line return from the IP. That is a 6.9 thing. 7.3 diesels never had that from the factory. The return was tee'd in with the injector returns and the return off the filter head.

So I'm guessing that someone may have ganked the lines from a 6.9L and used it on my 7.3L at some point. Got a pic of how that line is suppose to actually be?

As for the fuel filter, I have no leaks, but does the Wix have a plug in the bottom to put the WIF sensor in there?

 

[cpdenton]

No plug to put the wif sensor in. They make one that does, but I don't remember the number.

All that said, it's not really needed. You said your light was stuck on? The wire that should be under the filter that goes to the sensor might be grounded out somewhere...

 

[crash-harris]

And does anyone have any tips for getting to the #2 cylinder GP?

Doesn't look like it's ever been removed. It has a black ring in it like the new motorcrafts, and ask the others were autolites with a red ring. The 7 I've replaced didn't have stolen tips, now I'm just hoping this one doesn't give me any trouble...

 

[cpdenton]

Which cylinder are you calling number 2? Reason I ask is I can see the number 2 glow plug in your picture of the engine. It's on the drivers side front.

Goes like this...

Passenger side front to back are 1, 3, 5, and 7.

Drivers side front to rear are like this, 2, 4, 6, and 8.

If it's number 1, I think I had to take off that brace for the filter head. They were all pretty easy. I had some swivels though!

 

[crash-harris]

I guess it would be #3. I got it out, was indeed another autolite, but not one of the 8 was swollen! Soaked it in PB and left it while I was working on the fence and rotated it back and forth until it loosened up. Connectors will need replacing though. They've fallen apart some. I do have one clamp on the passengers side.

Old GP's and a forgotten bolt from a clamp.

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[crash-harris]

And I guess I don't really have an air intrusion problem. With the new ZD9'S in place she fired up in about 3 cranks versus the 20 minute or so crank times I've been having. And that's after sitting since a short trip yesterday to a friend's wedding and back.

Speaking of, yesterday was the first time my fiance has rode along in this new to us truck and it reminded me of the seat problem I need to address. The seat is partially reclined and won't lock in a normal position, but will lock farther back. I haven't yet looked underneath too much, but I think I'm going to have to pull the seat out and flip it to work on it.

 

[gandalf]

Just for reference sake and comparison, maybe clarification in a less crowded picture, here is the IP and attached hard lines from my 1992 7.3 NA engine. Notice that the lines are neatly in line, and there are four clamps total, two on each side of the engine. You need those clamps or the vibration will crack your hard lines otherwise. One of the easiest places to find them is at a Pick-n-Pull. If you have to go to the dealer, ask here for part numbers.

 

[crash-harris]

I found a full set on ebay that I'll be ordering next weekend. Shiny set for less than $13.

I notice that the line for the first injector on the drivers side is flat whereas mine is not, nor can it be. The hard line that runs from the IP return to the tee at the back of the engine is raised. It looks like it's even been bent a little more as the line behind that is resting right in the crook of the bend for that return line.

 

[crash-harris]

Since I can't find any connectors for the WIF, coolant temp or IP lever position sensors, I'm guessing that they tie into the same harness. Does any have a picture of this harness and where it connects into the rest of the system?

 

[cpdenton]

Let me try to help. I just went and looked my truck over. Running down the passenger side head is a bundle of wires which includes the glow plug wiring. Near the front of the engine, the plastic loom ends and several smaller wire looms come out of the end of it.

There are 2 different ones that go to three different things on the fuel filter head. One to the heater, one to the plugged filter sensor and one the the WIF sensor.

There is another loom that comes out of the end that has a plug on it for that fast idle switch. (That is what that sensor is that isn't plugge in.). It is a closed switch that put power through to the fast Idle plunger and the cold timing advance inside the IP until temp reaches 125 degrees or so. At that temp, it opens up and stops power to those.
There is another loom that goes across to the Injector pump.

Here is a picture of the plug. You can se it down in ther if you look closely.

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Your Lever position sensor should not be there. If your truck was a manual from the factory, it would not be there from the factory. It is only present on e4od trucks to supply the trans controller with throttle info. The plug would have been in the harness that goes across to the ac compressor. If you ere originally a manual, there will not be a harness for that present. Matter of fact, you can take that sensor off....it's not needed unless you have an e4od.