Finally bought one!

Etcetera

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The amp came with the premium sound system. It still works, but with an aftermarket head unit it's easier just to hook them up direct. Sounds better too.

Will have the bumper tomorrow. I don't have one at all right now. LMC lists the same bumper from 80-96 so I hope it fits and looks ok. If not the price is excellent, so I'm sure I can resell it.

Factory amp?
I wanna say the 89 bumper won't match the 94 body.


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Etcetera

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If it's ok with everyone, I think I'll just use this thread to log my progress with this truck.

Changing the oil in the rear axle was kind of a priority. It was dry but had evidence of past significant leakage. didn't grab a pic of the cover mounted, but here it is off the truck. I was worried about how much would be in there.
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I should have just pulled the drain plug and checked, because the oil was actually in good shape, could actually see light through it while draining. Anyways, I bought one of these. Factory 2008+ superduty rear cover. This one was $57 shipped off ebay. Grabbed a set of bolts from the hardware store as well. 5/16 -18 tpi. 1 inch long.

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Here it is installed. Little piece of mind and some bling that no one besides me will ever see . Those that are extra observant will see that I am missing 2 bolts on the top. I paid for 12, but missplaced 2 somewhere....

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Etcetera

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Tomorrow's adventure. The PO had glow plugs, a controller and harness installed, but the glow plugs are definitely NOT Motorcraft, so I'm going to swap them out while I still can. While I'm at it I'll remove the old harness, which they left in place, going to look at moving the glow plug controller off the engine as well.

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Ataylor

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Sounds like you are doing all the right things to make this a reliable runner. Good call on replacing the glow plugs. How about a coolant filter?

Archie
 

Etcetera

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I'm still researching coolant. SCA tests ok. I kind of want to run CAT EC-1 with new o-rings in oil cooler. A coolant filter is something I've thought about, will probably add it when I switch to EC-1 (IF I switch...)

Electric cooling fans are another item on my short list. I've been eyeballing the factory dual electric fans with shroud on my wife's 2008 yukon denali. I haven't measured it yet, but it looks like a pretty good fit. RockAuto has the fans with shroud for under $200. I'd run them with a DCControls FK95.

I really plan on keeping this truck for a very long time. No smog check, relatively good on fuel, alternative options for fuel, very simple engine, cheap parts, new enough to have some modern conveniences. Plus I like the body style.

I was going to do the pickup tubes in the fuel tanks this weekend, but if I wait til next weekend the shop at work will be clear and I can use the Jib crane to lift the bed. That'll give me a chance to inspect and clean everything under there. My front tank has a big dent in it, but I got a spare from a friend who is parting out a gasser. As far as I can tell the tanks themselves are the same. He also offered me a tank from a cummins truck, not sure that would fit. It's much larger, so it would be nice if it did.
 

FORDF250HDXLT

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Make a highway run long enough to get a mpg rough number. Just couldn't manage to keep it under 2k rpm. About 16.5mpg at 70ish. 2300-2400 rpm. I'm sure a 3.55 gear set would do wonders. Need to keep an eye out for a whole axle with that ratio.

you have a much wider rear than the other two options (srw pickup/cab and chassis)
they sell for around 700-1000 each at salvage yards.
here is a tip and trust me on it; the 93-97 (2nd gen sterling) srw came with 3.55's as did the same year cab n chassis.however only pre-93 drw pickup sterlings got the 3.55 ratio option.i know you'll see people listing them for sale.verify the axle width and gears 100% when it's done you'll see only 4.10's exists for this particular era and type axle.the 1st gen sterling drw pickup with 3.55's bolts right in though with a conversion u-joint and use of the older joint straps.
tip; make sure it's got the tone ring/VSS sensor though! or else,no speedo and the E40D cant shift properly.
(the '89 axle i scored sports one.)

good luck.
 

Etcetera

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Thanks for the tips, I'm very familiar with the widths, didnt' even think of the tone ring... There are several on craigslist, can pick one up for couple hundred bucks, 3.73. I sold one out of a chevy a while back, pretty much at scrap price.

The more I think about it, the more I'm leaning towards just sticking with what I have. I don't go on many highway trips. If anything a gearvendor or USgear unit would be cool, just have to be ready with cash for when the cheap one pops up.


Unrelated: Anyone heard of Hyper Lube Diesel super coolant additive? I found a bottle under the rear seat, mostly empty. It says it's a full SCA. I'm a bit nervous now, lol.

you have a much wider rear than the other two options (srw pickup/cab and chassis)
they sell for around 700-1000 each at salvage yards.
here is a tip and trust me on it; the 93-97 (2nd gen sterling) srw came with 3.55's as did the same year cab n chassis.however only pre-93 drw pickup sterlings got the 3.55 ratio option.i know you'll see people listing them for sale.verify the axle width and gears 100% when it's done you'll see only 4.10's exists for this particular era and type axle.the 1st gen sterling drw pickup with 3.55's bolts right in though with a conversion u-joint and use of the older joint straps.
tip; make sure it's got the tone ring/VSS sensor though! or else,no speedo and the E40D cant shift properly.
(the '89 axle i scored sports one.)

good luck.
 

FORDF250HDXLT

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if it's 3.73 gearing then it's super duty era sterling 10.5 which has a metric bolt pattern and your rims wont bolt up.you could see about bolting up the axle,but you'd need 4 rims out back with the other 2 up front and be screwed with tire rotations and stuck carrying 2 spares.i wouldn't do it.
a gear vendors with 4.10's i wouldn't do (not with a e40d/zf5.) you'd find yourself wanting to swap in a set of 4.56-4.88 gears to make it worthwhile.
 

Etcetera

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Little update on my progress.

Installed a real sender in place of the oil pressure switch, and bypassed resistor on back of panel. Checked pressure with a known good working gauge, 40psi with engine at about 140-150 degrees. It had cooled off for a while. Seems to be working right. I know it's not a replacement for a real gauge, but better than nothing.

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Also did the heater core diverter mod today. I bet this makes a big difference with the AC in this truck. I did the same mod in my 01 superduty about 10 years ago. Big improvement. Looks almost like it belongs there.

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While I had the gauge cluster out I discovered someone had pulled the ABS light. Now my Cruise Control not working makes more sense. The harness connector on the vehicle speed sensor is held on with a zip tie. Speedo works though, so not sure if that is the first place to look. The recall has been done and the master cylinder is new, looks like the pressure switch is new also. Will have to spend some time with the troubleshooting guide in the tech section to figure it out. The clock spring checks out OK, all the brake bulbs work, but the 3rd brake light is a bit dim. Will probably swap that out just in case. Not sure how sensitive the system is to that stuff. Would be really nice to get it working right. Also, is there a Cruise Control Light on the dash somewhere? I couldn't find it... Definitely have the module and steering wheel buttons though.

Ordered a 3" down pipe 4" straight exhaust today for a 94-97 powerstroke. Going to mod the turbo exhaust housing for a 3" band clamp and re-angle the end of the down pipe. Will probably do this at work on the weekend. I think I'll pull the bed to fix the pickups on the tanks, should make the exhaust install easier. Basically have a full fab shop at work, and the owner is cool about me coming in on the weekend to work on something. I sold the Chevy, so this truck is my only vehicle now. Going to have to plan carefully!

Overall it's been running great. Put about 500 miles on it, averaging just shy of 16mpg overall, almost all on the streets. Hard to complain about that.
 

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Just a quick update. Been way too busy with work to do much with the truck but drive it.

Removed the oil pressure sender and went back to factory set up. Added a mechanical gauge under the dash. Just didn't like the way the factory gauge acted.

Ready to install boost, pyro and trans temp. They are all Sunpro Street ST. Got the pyro from Pep Boys for $67, mechanical boost 0-30 PSI from ebay for $14.99 and electric trans temp was about $30 off ebay. Generic 3 gauge pod that lays flat in the middle dash tray area. They aren't wired yet, want to make sure I like them there before drilling any holes.

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Etcetera

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Yeah, I'm undecided right now. The quad would be nice, but I'm not completely sold on the a pillar mount. I figure I'll drive around for a few days with the gauges sitting where they are and see how I like it.
 

Etcetera

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I said screw it and drilled the holes last night. Hooked up the boost first, it was easiest. 5 PSI, almost ready to make a few adjustments.
 

Etcetera

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All gauges hooked up. Just got done with a 30 mile test drive through some pretty hilly terrain. Probably the wastegate is set for 5PSI, even pulling a very very steep back road with foot on floor can't pass it. Highest EGT I saw was 800 or so. Trans stayed around 160. The only way it will make any smoke is if you stab the throttle in neutral. Then just a little puff of black. I don't think I'll get around to it tonight, but I plan on giving it a 2-3 flats of fuel, and adjusting the wastegate to 10-12 PSI or as close as I can get it.

Still gotta do the downpipe and exhaust. Figured I'd see what the stock setup is good for first.

Also, wanted to mention this before, but forgot. I borrowed a vacuum gauge from work and plumbed it into where the filter minder goes with a hose routed into the cab. With a brand new filter without the foam piece it pulls around 6 or 7 inches of vacuum. I bet a big free flowing filter in a cold air box is worth quite a bit on these. I'm sure everyone already knows that.
 
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