FAN BLOWER FULL POWER ???

subway

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cheby blower motors are good upgrades for jeeps to. i will have to check out the crown vic blower motor since i will have the system apart to add ac sometime here. got a year to reference?

i agree you loose all but high when the resistor pack craps. i wonder what the voltage is at the motor to. would it be worth a relay for high?
 

icanfixall

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My question is close but off topic. Where is the condensate drain from the AC condenser? My truck will drip water for about an hour after I stop the truck. I think my drain is plugged up. I did clean out the cowel drains.... What a job the drivers side was with the E4OD cpu in the way... Had to remove the parking brake mess.... Then someone told me I could reach under the back of the fender well and reach the cleanouts..... Good information for next time....thanks..
 

MIDNIGHT RIDER

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SOME RESULTS

With engine idling, 14.2-volts at the main power junction, all other accessories OFF, max-A/C ON, fan-speed switch on HIGH, I have a grand total of 10.8-volts at the blower.

Two relays are wired and installed, one HOT, the other GROUND.

I got interrupted and did not get to finish, so I will have more results later.
 

RKOCH

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First of all pull the temp control out and look at the plug to the fan switch it is usually the culprit in these trucks. It is usually a bad conection in that switch and it melts that plug. And the resitors get the blame but the resitors rarely out bad in these trucks.
 

david85

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The "resistor" is Just a collection of steel springs, and since I could't find a new one, I fixed the original. Not hard to fix at all. The real problem was a loose contact in my case.

Would be nice to get some more power behind the wind, but truth be told even in the dead of summer, lately I have the blower on low because the AC is so cold.

Cleaned out my ducting a while ago and its scary just how fire prone the design is. The place where leaves and pine neddles like to collect is right where the resistor is, so really its only a matter of time. Other than that, the design is robust enough that it can last the life of our trucks, AND THATS SAYING SOMETHING!!!!;Sweet
 

MIDNIGHT RIDER

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THE REST OF THE STORY !!!

With engine idling, 14.2-volts at the main power junction, all other accessories OFF, max-A/C ON, fan-speed switch on HIGH, I have a grand total of 10.8-volts at the blower.

Two relays are wired and installed, one HOT, the other GROUND.


Finished hooking up my relays and now, by simply flipping a switch, I can over DOUBLE the blower speed on demand.

Volts at the blower jumped from an anemic 10.8-volts to a healthy 13.5-volts.

Fan speed is more than double.

The blower runs much quieter and smoother.

Air-speed at the vents is much more noticable.

I should have done this years ago.


Besides supercharging my blower, this takes a lot of electrical load from the dash wiring.:thumbsup:
 
C

cash

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According to what I can make out from this at location C/D 14 and 15 :



Picture courtesy of AGNEM, thanks.

http://image18.webshots.com/18/1/79/32/202817932OgmYDQ_fs.jpg


: The fan-blower speed is governed by the GROUND being switched through a series of resistors, RIGHT ??


Lets say I splice into the BLK wire near the blower and also the ORG wire with good heavy wire, routing both leads through TWO simultaneously switched RELAYS, such that one relay gave full power to the ORG wire, and the other relay made a direct GROUND for the BLK wire, then would I be able to switch my blower to un-hampered FULL power by merely flipping a switch; and, when the switch was OFF, still have normal anemic factory-original control of fan speed, RIGHT ???


Thanks.

I can not get this web page http://image18.webshots.com/18/1/79/32/202817932OgmYDQ_fs.jpg any help Thanks Phil
 

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