C350 Electrical Nightmare

[divemaster5734]

After months focused on the engine/transmission swap as the biggest fear of having issues it's become apparent that was the easy part.
Meticulous prep, thorough research, and careful assembly is all that's really needed to make those 7.3's purr like a kitten.
The "quality" level of the Bronco conversion is far more inline with an impatient amateur than anything resembling professional ethics.
The first picture is from under the dash.

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The black switch hanging near the top is the tank selector switch, which they wrapped electrical tap to hold in "rear" position, then removed from the dash, and stuffed it to the back, by the firewall, so they could install the lower white switch, which is for the rear window control. Notice the brown wire hanging next to the tank switch.
That is a power feed that goes to the window switch, however, whoever crimped the stakon couldn't get all the strands in, so the just cut away half of them, and then tapped it up because the connection was so weak.
It was so bad that the wire came out, which explains why the back window never worked when I got the truck.
Next to the white switch is I believe a ground splice, where they just took a 8/32 and bolted three poorly crimped stakons.
Follow the green wire up from the air splice and one of those heinous wire taps, they used those everywhere.
The lighting system may have to be fully rewired from the switch.

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These two are open air hot splices in the engine bay, there are others, but you get the idea.
Which brings me to the reason for this post.
I had to jumper the ip solenoid to get it to start.
Finally got a chance to start ringing out the harness wiring to locate the open wire.
If I understand the schematic, there's a idle advance solenoid on the ip in addition to the shut off.
The advance is tied into the load side of the water temp switch, and is closed at 212° and below water temp.
I'm assuming both ip solenoids use a common ground, so there are only the hot wires.
My assumption last week was only one solenoid, with each side supplied due to the close proximity of combustible fuel.

Question 1) If there are actually two solenoids, then the one closest to the front is the fuel, and the back one is the advance?

Question 2) I did not connect the water in fuel connector, as I installed an aftermarket unit at a different location. I am getting the water in fuel indicator light on steady whenever running the engine. The schematic shows this as a N/O switch, that doesn't close unless there's water present. I'm positive I used the correct connector, and will try to attach the other one I thought was for the separator when I get back to the truck, but I do not believe it will even attach to the terminals at the water sensor.
Has anyone else ever had this issue when switching to an aftermarket unit?
Question 3) Actually, this will wait until I've had a chance to clean up the wiring.
Thanks

 

[Nero]

That wiring needs an exorcist.

1: Front connector is fuel shutoff, rear is timing.

2: WIF light illuminates when the wire is grounded. If it is just resting on the frame or something thats enough to turn the light on sometimes.

3: yes

 

[divemaster5734]

That wiring needs an exorcist.

1: Front connector is fuel shutoff, rear is timing.

2: WIF light illuminates when the wire is grounded. If it is just resting on the frame or something thats enough to turn the light on sometimes.

3: yes

Guess it's a good thing I'm a Christian Sparky then..lol

 

[IDIBRONCO]

there's a idle advance solenoid on the ip in addition to the shut off.

Plus a timing advance that's tied in with the high idle. They both have power at the same time.

I'm assuming both ip solenoids use a common ground, so there are only the hot wires.

Yes. The IP is the ground.

 

[tbowker]

Guess it's a good thing I'm a Christian Sparky then..lol

I figured you had to be an electrician type with the way you were slinging around some of that terminology. Under my dash is a bit of a nightmare also, yours may take the cake though.

 

[divemaster5734]

I was hoping to put off the electrical until this phase was done, but apparently that will not be the case.
Going to plan it out, pull the two engine harnesses out, get a 3g connector, and build two new complete ones.
Will build the GP harness for a relocated GP relay on the cross member next to the radiator, and build the front harness for a 3g system with AC.
Never did like the original relay location directly under the turbo.
Will eliminate all the unused sensor tails.
Then attack the dash.
It's a wonder those Centurion conversions didn't just burn to the ground.

 

[frankenwrench]

Didn't yours try really hard to do just that?

 

[divemaster5734]

Didn't yours try really hard to do just that?

Apparently so, discovered this when I removed the engine harness.

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[IDIBRONCO]

That's not terribly uncommon and is becoming more common as the years go by. Those are (were) your glow plug power wires. That's from a dirty connection, which causes extra resistance and heat. Mine is still fine in my 1985. Sometimes, it feels like I have the only one left in the country.

 

[KansasIDI]

That's not terribly uncommon and is becoming more common as the years go by. Those are (were) your glow plug power wires. That's from a dirty connection, which causes extra resistance and heat. Mine is still fine in my 1985. Sometimes, it feels like I have the only one left in the country.

I am yet to come across a 6.9 plug that was melted, they are 8 pin, 7.3 uses 12 pin I believe, have seen one melted, on that gray parts truck I had, but otherwise haven’t seen any others